I've been frugal (make that stingy) all my life to survive. Now that I can afford things doesn't mean I'm throwing it away.

I thought $3.75 for 12 tiny stanchions was a bit high, but then again I still remember 18 cent gasoline. At the LHS I saw a molded plastic tunnel at $39, it probably cost nothing to make.

My Connies are the most expensive locos I have, at $119 each.  My detailing is not proto, I want natural brass, polished rails, possibly even paint the drivers white. The tender ladders and rails have been replaced with brass or PB. The Bachmann 70 I'm building will be a real "hot rod".   

Bob

As I mentioned, I have a lot of fun with DCC on my small layout.  Is there a specific size where DCC begins to have an advantage?

One reason I wanted to try DCC is because I wasn't satisfied with the throttle control of my Magnum.  I like things to happen when I turn the dial a few degress from off.  Nothing moves until I reach about the 9 O'clock position.  It's like having too much free play in the clutch of my pickup. I  prefer more sensitive controls, a holdover from RC.

The EZ works exactly the same.  I can't adjust CVs yet, I have read that the startup threshold can be lowered.  Switch selected sensitivity seems a better option (dual rates)  than fiddling with CVs. Both the Magnum and EZ have excellent snail speeds. 

Pondering DCC is like standing at the edge of the pool, can't learn to swim till you dive in.  The EZ at least got my feet wet, but I'm still leary of deeper waters.

A hidden DIP in the tender can turn the lights off and on.

Tony:  My experience means I can probably plug it into the wall, maybe.  Ask me DCC questions and you get a dumb look.  An analog brain in a digital world.

Bob

Thanks Sheldon

I got lost about midway through the narration, probably will ask for schematics later.  At my age the brain overloads pretty fast. When you get it all perfected, we'll be seeing your book from Kalmbach.  Go for it.  Be sure to copyright all your manuscripts and schematics and overlay a huge watermark before disclosing them, guess you know that already.

Bob

Thanks Rich
Both links work, one redirects to the other. 

It's not the market that bothers me, everytime the feds lower prime rates, my bond income goes down.  I also keep working funds in money market, it dropped from 4.6% to 3.2% the last 1/2% cut.  That cost me $5,000 a year in income. 

If people would quit buying homes they can't afford there wouldn't be so many foreclosures.  I drive a Ford, wifey wants a Jaguar. 

There must be a market for these locos.  I know a guy that spent $30,000 building a 1/2 scale RC Airplane, crashed the maiden flight.  Of course I laughed LOL.

Bob

The EZ Command at $80 is a great way to start out, and I usually recommend it.

As for adjusting CVs, I'd rather wrestle with an alligator, and will only update if absolutely necessary.

Bob

David, the link doesn't work at least for me.

Bob

Sheldon
You hit the nail on the head, I haven't been in model RR  long enough to know where I want to go with it.  That's why I'm just experimenting at this stage. 

My background (and age) are now my stumbling blocks. Around here people "know" me as a dumb retired cattle rancher who busted his butt for 20 years to build a nest egg. 

In earlier life I had an FCC technicians license with a degree in electronic engineering.   At one point, I designed circuitry to monitor optical coatings used by NASA.  Of course, my employer got the patent, I just got a healthy bonus and royalty.  That's when I decided to stop using my brain to make others richer, and moved to Colorado to test the waters.   

When renewable energy became  buzz words, I became a dealer and installed Solar/Wind power systems for remote homes.  All our wells are solar powered. I have suggested a solar powered garden layout with regulated 12VDC.  Batteries provide the power, panels merely charge the batteries.

More recently I got involved in GPS and radio packets to track teams in Search and Rescue,  teaching cartography and navigation to members. 

Today all the equipment I have is a Fluke DVM and clampon ammeter.  So what's my problem?  I'm tired of thinking, my brain is fried, and just want to have fun with my trains.  If I were 20 years younger (heard that before?) I would be inclined to build an elaborate block system such as yours, perhaps a second layout with all DCC, and compare the two systems. 

I don't intend to go wireless, but would like to learn more about block systems before I invest in higher end DCC.  Toward that end, schematics would be helpful.   

Bob

I've had my nose in a book my entire life just keeping up with things.  I'll probably get a Power Cab. I've procrastinated because I don't like the power panel that has to be mounted to the table, but I can build a small chassis/box to put it in.  That's why I bought an MRC Advance Square, but didn't like it and sent it back.

I'll have to read the stupid manual again, I d/l their 75 page pdf.  Not sure I like the thumb wheel, does it have a stop at zero or  continuous?  I prefer a knob with a stop and an arrow to see where I'm at.  Guess it's what you get used to.

I'm also considering Dynamis (sp), but haven't read any reviews on it yet.  I may start a thread on it later.

I have only Bachmann locos, I read that they have a CV list, haven't looked for it yet.

Bob

If my Connies are pulling a lot of cars, after about 3 rounds it gets a bit noisy. I took one completely apart, only to discover the drive wheels were out of quarter.  I also found some burrs in the casting, so I polished all the bearing surfaces.  The worm gear end play seemed fine at the time, so I  lubed and it ran fine for awhile.

Anyway, when it gets noisy, I  run reverse for a round, then back to forward and its quiet again.  The noise only happens when more than 15 or 16  cars are hooked up.

Adding a teflon or delrin thrust bearing might be the answer.  If the worm gear shifts a tad, it shouldn't affect the idler gears, but may be displacing the grease and rubbing on the casting. 

Jim, is it possible to install  L shaped brass shim(s) without pulling the motor/belt drive? It's been a while since I did the fine tuning and don't remember.

Bob 

I have noticed that my wife's dc loco has a continuous bright light, but I get a slight flickering on my DCC locos.  I'm inclined to think it may be the CV as you mentioned.  It's barely noticeable so I don't worry about it. 

I only have EZ Command so couldn't adjust the CV anyway.  I'm considering getting an NCE Powercab just for programming.  I know very little about changing CVs, and don't intend getting too involved with it.

Bob

Thanks Tony, that's the kind of response I like.  I get a bit rattled when someone says if you don't run DCC, you're a dummy, or if you do run it you're a snob, and it gets to be a big bruhaha.  My goodness, I thought this hobby was supposed to be fun, well it is for me, but some take it a higher level I guess.

I have enough trouble controlling one consist realistically, let alone multiples.  I don't go through elaborate switching operations, I have a fiddle track and decouple by hand mostly.  I do have a Pix Stik but can't see well enough to use it.  Actually the whole layout is a fiddle track as I have lots of re-railers for set outs.

Bob 

Thanks Andre
That must be the one, it's in Montana.  They show a different address than on one of my part packages, I assume the one on the site is the latest. 

I remember now they are the company with the brass models, wow,  they are something else.  A little too rich for my blood, but something for everyone.

Thanks once again
Bob

This has been hashed ad nauseum, but wanted to throw in my nickel, should say a dollar with inflation.

When I first thought of model railroading a year ago, I had no concept of trains, full size or scale.  I live in the remote mountains and no one else here has trains. 

After a little research, I called Bachmann for a catalog, had it in 5 days and they paid the shipping.  After looking through the catalog I was hooked. "Our"  first train was a Roaring Ridge, my wife said it was neat and wanted it just to display on the mantle. But she did  put it all together and ran the thing before displaying, after all it's her train.  The 56 X 38 EZ track was a nice start for me as well. 

Some more research, and the Spectrum line seemed to be the best bang for the buck.  Never heard of DCC pertaining to locos, but am very familiar with digital packets, sattelites and GPS.  DCC equipped yet compatible with DC? That's for me. I asked my wife if she wanted me to DCC her loco, she told me to leave it alone.

So which do I prefer?  Don't really know yet and may never have a preference.  Sometimes my wife likes to run her train, so I plug in her DC pack.  I run double heads of DCC diesels on DC with no problem.  I have 2 EZ Commands, (one for a spare) sometimes it's fun to have several consists in the yard, run one awhile, park it, then run another, but that can be done with a few switches on DC, or to be able to double head with cab forward on the lead and reverse for the rear like they do here with the coal trains, but again I can put a tiny DIP switch in the cab to do that.   

I tried sound, didn't like it and sent it back.  Also bought an MRC  Advance Squared, didn't like the continuous throttle so back it went.  I'm not knocking the DCC turnouts but I don't need them, I can reach the Caboose Ind manual throws or add a couple of leads for a remote switch.  I admit to being intrigued at first, but decided against them.

I don't follow polls or ratios, or buy something simply because "Everyone has it" just to be popular or accepted.  You know, the "Big Kauhuna" (sp) says to eat kangaroo so everyone wants Rooburgers. 

I don't know the future of DCC, but DC will never be extinct, (as some have inferred) at least not in my lifetime.  Remember the "conversion" can be both ways.  I have a friend who buys DCC equipped, but rewires and sends me the circuit board.  I have several boards from my "Goat" projects.  My wife may someday change her mind about her loco. Having her for a railroading companion is my greatest pleasure so I keep it simple for her sake.

A magazine article said that one day you will be able to program an operation sequence, then sit back in the easy chair and watch a continuous computer controlled session.   I can believe that, lots of people have more dollars than sense.

Ok, your turn.  Except for the automated thing, tell me what can be done with DCC that can't be done with DC, and let's moderate that just for average layouts, average modelers with average needs.   Facts, not opinions.

When someone tells me their opinion, I just say ok, and go on.  Doesn't mean I agree with them, but so what.?  Webster has one definition of "opinion" that is often true "A belief held often without knowledge or proof"  I rarely offer opinions, unless someone asks me, and I qualify it by saying I have no documented proof.  In other words, I have absolutely no clue what I am talking about at the time, just trying to help or make suggestions.

I once held up a sheet of white paper and asked a guy what color it was.  He refused to answer, because we might be in agreement and  he could never tolerate that. 

Bob     

Mr Bach-man
Thanks for your prompt reply.   Could be my post and another had a collision.  I just hit the post button and went for coffee.

I thought about calling service with my next question, but others might like the answer also.

I prefer repairing my locos myself, which I am capable of doing if I have the part. After a lot of fine tuning and customizing, I don't want them replaced.  Your locos all come with an excellent exploded drawing with all the part numbers.  I realize service can't possibly stock everything, but can I order specific parts when needed?  I assume I can or the part numbers wouldn't be listed.

I also like to keep on hand a few critical parts like wiper assemblies and don't mind waiting for the boat to come in. 

I have several running Connies, GPs and 70s, but have spares on the shelf for the sole purpose of parts scavenging to avoid down times,  then replace the part(s) later.  I certainly don't recommend everyone doing this, I am just fortunate to be one of those "If it can be taken apart I can fix it" provided parts are available.

Thanks
Bob

Bach-man.
I earlier responded with turnaround based on my previous experiences.  but my post was removed .  Did I say something wrong? 

Bob