If you bought the loco new, there is a parts diagram in the box. 

You might be able to get a copy by calling customer service.

Bob

Time is money.  It was true in the past and even more so today. How much is a replaced loco worth in parts salvage value?  I might pay $10 for one if it still had parts I could use.

I have 3 Connies, 2 are active on my layout, the third is still in the box for parts scavenging.  I run it once in a while to keep it limber, then back on the shelf. I gave up trying to find used Bachmann locos for parts.  Haven't needed any parts yet, having spares is just old habit.   

My steamers are fine tuned and customized, I don't want them replaced, for that matter even touched by another technician. 

I consider my diesels pretty much disposable.  At $40 apiece they aren't worth the postage plus replacement fee to send them back after I run them into the ground.

Bob

I still have my first computer, a Commodore VIC 20.  I keep it as a reminder of those so-called good old days. No software, had to write programs in BASIC.

One time I had a huge derail that reminded me of one I saw on TV.  It was a coal run, engine front and back.  The lead loco went off and the rear just kept shoving everything off the track..I suddenly had a flashback impulse to grab a huge hammer, as was often suggested for computers.

I'm  thinking magnetically controlled  Monorail might be the next step in trains. Unlimited speed, impossible to derail.  We might be in awe of our current trains, but as often quoted "You ain't seen nothin' yet"

Bob

Hi Sheldon
I was referring to the older pulse units. I was not aware his unit was a PWM.

I edited my post to avoid confusion

Thanks
Bob

MrsGramp:

Diesels just make a lot of rumbling and roaring noises and blow their horns.  See Gene, I said "horns", I'm awake now. 

I enjoy the diesels because I can just toss them on the track and run them.  But as I mentioned above, I can't justify adding sound to any of mine.

If you ever decide to get a steamer, I would suggest Bachmann's sound equipped Baldwin 2-8-0, a very reliable and smooth runner. 

Bob

Gene:
I'm having a bad day ok?  .  I edited my post before you made your comment but you beat me to it.   I was really sweating as I knew you were getting ready to pounce on me. LOL

Actually, the blunder was made because in my mind I only associate sound with steamers.  I've never heard a sound diesel.  Except for the horn, what else is there?  My diesels already make a lot of noise.

Bob

The diesel models don't have much room but sound can be added.  Personally I would never attempt it even though I have an electronic background.

Before you spend the money, you might want to consider if adding sound is really worth it.  Some modelers like it, others don't.   

I'm not trying to discourage you, it's your train and your money. I tried sound and didn't feel it made my railroad experiences any more enjoyable. 

However, if you are determined to have sound, then I would suggest having it installed by Tonys.  Some hobby shops also do installations. 

Bob

There is a web site that has a lot of information about installing sound decoders.

http://www.tonystrains.com

You might want to download some of their technical pdf files.  They have one called  "Decoder Installations" that is very informative.  Once you have studied a little, give them a call and they will advise you options for your particular models.  They will even do the installation for you for a modest fee if you buy the decoders from them.

Good Luck

Bob

At my age, even if I could catch my wife, wouldn't know what to do with her.

I think I have a mood swing hangover from yesterday.  I have days when everything is just one big joke, and I find myself laughing all day and saying really stupid things.

After only a year in RR, I already have way too many cars and some have got to go. I had 50 hand picked cars, then a friend in Kansas sent me 30 he was thinning out.  They are all Con Cor and Kadee, but had plastic wheels and needed a little work.  Another friend here gave me a box of older cars he got at a garage sale for a couple bucks.  I got cars up to my XXXXX. 

I have 10 locos, and I'm saying "whoa".  What is it about us modelers that we can't be satisfied with one loco and a few cars?  Must be an addiction, a train junkie.

I'm really not picky about details on my cars other than ladders and steps. I'd rather be running than using a bunch of magnifiers to stick tiny pieces on cars.  I think one has to have a tremendous passion for detailing,  I see articles about all the precise work on the bottom of a box car.  I could care less what bottoms look like, it's the tops that count  (quit thinking of women Richie) Yup, it's a hangover.

Every one I've talked to is in the doldrums lately.  I'm trying to get my goats detailed, but just have no motivation. 

Bob

I only had one car derail using the consist as described, turned out to be a defective knuckle spring and vertical slop.  Other than that, I run the setup both directions, often full throttle with no problems.  Keep in mind I'm only running 10 coal cars.  I did, however try it with 20 assorted cars for long periods with no derails. 

The couplers have to be adjusted precisely with no vertical slop, to prevent what I call "camming" decoupling, where one knuckle tries to ride up over the other.  This can happen in both pull and push situations.  I think this is one item that is often overlooked by modelers when checking with the height gauge.  It takes some judicious shimming, but I do not allow my couplers to "hang".  You can actually see the camming action on a test track by pushing or pulling 2 coupled cars.

I also make sure the coal cars are properly and uniformly weighted, usually a bit more than the usual, using a digital scale.   

Others may disagree with my picky methods, but it works for me. The key is turning "consist" into "consistency", which does require some fine tuning.

All my locos are Bachmann, and they seem very well matched.  At slow speeds, I have tried to observe coupler action.  Actually my wife does it while I vary speed as her eyes are better than mine.  Sometimes the couplers are compressed or extended, and sometimes seem to just "float" along. 

I think I owe the success of operation to Bachmann locos, near perfect trackwork, proper weighting and precisely adjusted Kadee couplers. All my cars have  been converted to Kadee.   I believe it was Sheldon a year ago who convinced me to make the switch.  Thanks Sheldon.

Bob

You are welcome.  I just now edited my post so you might want to read it again.

Keep checking your thread, others will be in with other suggestions. perhaps elaborating on your specific issues.

Bob

Jordan:  Welcome back to trains.

Short answers to perhaps lengthy issues:

Your old engine may just need a little lubrication with a very light oil.

If you buy a new engine, it will have the newer knuckle couplers. You should then update the couplers on your cars if possible. Some are easy drop in conversions, others may take a little modifying.  The most popular couplers are the Kadee #5 , I prefer the #148 Whisker which is a bit easier for me.

DCC stands for "Digital Command Control".

Quoted from my DCC instructions:  "DCC allows you to digitally control the speed, lighting, sound, and direction of several locomotives independent of each other."

It requires a special DCC controller, and the loco must be equipped with a decoder to accept the digital signals and perform the requested functions. 

Look in the HO section of this forum for a thread called "DC or DCC?".  Lots of good information has been posted there recently by forum members.    

If you have a local hobby shop that features trains, the owner will be happy to help you with more detailed information, and advise you on locomotive selections. 

There is an abundance of information, answers and suggestions in the forum archives, try doing a search for a specific topic.  Feel free to ask questions anytime,  members ranging from beginner to advanced are always willing and anxious to help.

Good luck
Bob
 

By prototype I was referring to having the rear engine reversed. I model this because it is the way coal trains run here.

I have a 10' test track here in my shop, DC powered.  I placed 2 Bachmann GE 70 DCC Equipped  on the track, both heading the same direction about 3' apart.   Turn the knob they both move forward.  Flip the switch they both move reverse. 

I turned one loco around, so that the two were tail to tail and turned the knob. The  one pointing forward went forward, and the reversed one followed right along in the same direction, as it should.  I just wanted to reassure those with questions about the compatibility issue of Bachmann DCC locos on a DC track. 

However, if I hook the EZ Command to the track, then I have to reprogram the loco, since forward is forward regardless of orientation.

So with DCC equipped locos running DC, I still have prototypical coal trains by doing absolutely nothing. 

I don't want to beat this issue to death.  At this point I have no further input to offer or questions to ask, just need to get some more good books and study.

I greatly appreciate everyone keeping their posts friendly with factual comments. I don't see this as a contest to prove who is right and who is wrong, and this thread proves that something can be debated peacefully.

For now, I'm calling it a "draw", leaving it up to personal needs and preferences. 

This issue pops up frequently as new people are drawn into the hobby. I would suggest that when it does, simply have them do a search for "DC or DCC?" Meanwhile feel free to add new information to update the thread.

Thank you

Bob

Good advice.

Welcome to the hobby Peter.

Bob

G'day Col
Congratulations on your GP40.  I have 3 of the same part number, they run great.

I use a Spectrum Magnum pack for DC.  Using mine as an example, the pack is rated at 15 volts DC, which is "no load".   More important is the "VA" (volt-ampere) rating.

Label on mine states 10 VA.  Applying Ohm's law, divide the VA by the voltage gives you about .7 ampere.  This is sufficient to run 2 of your GPs at the same time. Actually under load, the available amperage can increase to about .8.  The protective circuit breaker  is overrated at 125 % so it will most likely be 1 amp rated.

Larger "booster" packs will have the same  voltage, but a higher VA, such as 45.  This means there are 3 amperes of current available, so you can run many more locos.  Stay with UL or ETL approved train power packs and you will have no problems.

When I first get a new loco, I like to run it with a few cars for about 30 minutes or so, at varying speeds.  My GPs were pretty slow out of the box, but now they are much faster.  I hooked up 30 cars to one of my GPs, and timed the speed at about 98 MPH scale. (156 KMH to you )

More than you asked for, but might be useful for future reference.

Bob