Gomer Pyle used to say "Be nice to me and I'll be nice to you, treat me mean and I'll ignore  you".

I wasn't nice to you so you may ignore me, and I will do likewise.

Yampa

TomKat
Just checking.  So many people are jumping into DCC with no experience. I have an extensive electronic background also, but limited digital.

I like my EZ Command, but have also thought of upgrading.  Since I don't want wireless, guess my second choice would be NCE Power Cab.  Life is so full of choices, but at my age it is getting more difficult.   If I live long enough, there will probably be a time when I will move up also, as my modeling uses consists a lot.

Bob

Since this thread is about the future, it might be appropriate to elaborate on the solar modules,  they are a viable option for a portable or garden railroad, perhaps at a remote cabin, outdoor exhibition, etc. 

Solar technology is fairly simple,  layers of semi conducting material (silicon) doped with additives (boron) to produce a  Photovoltaic cell.  A single cell generates about 1/2 volt of DC electricity, so it takes 36 cells to provide a nominal 12 volts (18 volts peak) module.  Modules are arranged into panels and arrays to provide higher voltages and amperages needed for homes and other application.   

Pure DC, and wired just like batteries, in series for more voltage, in parallel for more amps. 

You see the small modules along railroad tracks for signaling and communications, by highways for emergency phones and traffic warnings, anywhere that the grid isn't available.

With some exceptions, including water pumping, solar panels don't power anything directly.  They are used to charge batteries, the batteries provide the power, either as DC, or through an inverter to provide AC.   Batteries are dangerous, a car battery can generate an instantaneous amperage of thousands of amps   Always remove the negative cable first, and reinstall the negative terminal last.   First off, last on.  I forgot myself once and welded a wrench to the car frame while taking off the positive terminal first. 

Batteries to power your trains?  Nothing new, we did it many years ago before the REA ran lines to farms. Ever see a windcharger on an old farm house?  Yup, it was charging surplus telephone batteries to light the home.  

If you only want to run your trains when the sun can hit the panels, you can wire them directly.  There's  a catch.  Sun goes behind a cloud, the train slows or stops. Solution:  Get a small hobby battery, 12 volts at 5 to 7 AH, a charge controller to regulate the charging current from the panel, and you're set to go. 

Quality modules are scarce as most are being shipped to Germany. This site has some inexpensive ones that will work.

http://www.northerntool.com

There are some errors in their catalog, I haven't checked the specs on the site lately.

You only need a small charge controller for this, not the huge one they list for large arrays.  Charging amps for small batteries are usually C/10, meaning  1/10 the battery ampere/hour rating, or .7 amp.  The Tower wallwart charges at 600 milliamps or .6 amps.

A 15 watt panel  $80, charge controller  $30, battery  $25  Add your own protective stuff like fuses, current limiters (light bulbs)or resistors.  That's still a fairly weak panel, only provides 1.25 amps of charge, a little better than a trickle charger, as here is the theory: 

Say your loco draws .8 amps. Run your loco for one hour. You just used .8 amp hour of current from a 7AH battery, about a 10% discharge.  The charge controller should just keep the battery peaked and into the float stage.

Of course if you only run for a short period, use a battery or two and forget the panel and charge controller.

You still need a throttle. Take apart a standard DC controller, bypass the transformer and rectifier circuit, you only need the rheostat.  You can leave the delay action circuit breaker if you want, but I would still use external fusing.  Add polarized plugs for the battery leads.  Any rheostat of adequate power rating will work. 12 volts @1 amp = roughly 12 to 15  watt. It may get a little warm.  If you are not comfortable doing this, find an electrical savvy person to assist. Use fast action fuses and get a bunch of them, 1 amp just like your controller. 

If you need  3 amp for a garden loco, you need a 50 watt panel a high power rated throttle and a larger battery, say 28 to 30 AH.  Be careful as this many amps can do some unwanted welding.  You can still use the small charge controller, but it won't keep the battery peaked.      

For DCC you need a pure sine wave inverter to change to AC, but most inverters are only square wave. I don't recommend DCC as it may ruin your controller or power panel.

Battery from Tower Hobbies is  gel electrolyte  so no acid to spill, buy the wallwart charger also. You can get a digital voltmeter from some NAPA stores for $10 (bargain  bin) It measures  DC and AC volts and  DC current to 10 amps.

Bob

Sid
Glad to know about the decoder, I just thought they put it in the tender like the Spectrum line.  Well, I think I will pass on the combo.

I have some extra small circuit boards from Bachmann GE 70 ton.  I hope to DCC my wife's DC Roaring Ridge if the stall currents are compatible.

Did you by any chance measure the stall current of your 0-6-0?  If it's low, which I suspect it is, I might consider buying the standard version and putting the decoder in the tender.  I have tiny plugs from Micro Mark that would make an easy install.

The standard is not DCC ready, but I'm sure the pick up and motor wires can be isolated.

Kinda taking Amber's thread off topic, but thanks for the info. I may start another thread about this.

Bob

Larry
I am a bit confused (as usual).  I read the listing in the catalog, it just says "operating headlight"...was the light separate in the box?  That seems odd.

Since  you have done some work on it, you probably can't get a refund, and will just have to send it back to Bachmann.   May I ask where you bought it?

This is the reason I only buy locos from Tower Hobbies.  I have had 3 defective Bachmann locos, 2 out of the  box, the third going bad after a few days.  Within 30 days after purchase Tower will replace the defective item, even send a prepaid UPS label, or just give you a refund, even if  you change  your mind and don't want it.  No questions, no hassle.   I don't know of any other source that has this guarantee, most just say send it back to the factory. 

During the first 20 days or so, I check everything.  Of course after the 30 days it then has to go to Bachmann. 

I have not seen anyone else recommending Tower and I don't understand why.   They are not just an airplane and car source anymore, they have a full line of Bachmann and Atlas, although Bachmann seems to be in stock better.  Their pricing is as good or better than other so called discount houses.  I have been dealing with them for 37 years without a single complaint.

Bob

Rich:  "That is good YES"

Jeff:  I don't remember.

Bob 

Gene

The Niagara is listed in the standard line.  Was this model ever a Spectrum?  I read somewhere that Bachmann was moving some of their Spectrums into the standard section. I think the only difference is better detailing, or perhaps being more selective in their sound models.

Recently I (we)have been admiring their USRA 0-6-0 DC model which sells for about $50.  Then I see they offer the same model with DCC on board with EZ Command as a combo.  I can buy that one for $120.   My wife encouraged me to get one, but I already  have 2 EZ Commands.  She said, so what now you can have a third one for only $70.   It's like "Guess what I just saved $400 on some new clothes", makes me nervous LOL..  Other than detail do you think the standard 0-6-0 would be a good value?  It's mainly to satisfy my wife who thinks locos should be in "pretty" colors.

Bob

I thoroughly enjoy my trains also.  It really has become an obsession as you said.

I have noticed that I am starting to take a second look at my rolling stock, and becoming more aware of the finer details.  The guy sent me one Kadee box car that has incredible fine detail.  I can't imagine why he didn't want it.

Since I now have way too many cars, I am really scrutinizing them.  About 20 will be sent to my son, he don't give a hoot about detail as long as they have wheels.

Guess the detail bug has bit me.   I just like to tease you occasionally to see if you're alive and well.   I have a habit of rattling people's cages, sometime I get bit.

Maybe someday I can sign my name:

Bob the Snob

Hi Amber

Full scale trains, the real ones that we model after, all have different numbers within each company.  It is referred to as their "roster".

Railroads have "road names", In your case New York Central.  To identify  and keep track of all the various equipment owned by each railroad company, they are assigned  "road numbers".

Are the numbers in the series 6009, 6014, 6016 or 6020?  Look on the bottom, is "DCC ON BOARD", printed on the frame? 

You are fortunate to have received the Niagara 4-8-4, they are very popular among railroad modelers.  Bachmann locomotives are very good quality.  Congratulations.

I am curious, are they new in the box? If so I would have to add:  Wow, someone must like you a lot.

Bob

I have read many good comments about their service department.  I think the few who are disgruntled need to take lessons in  people skills, they don't teach that in school anymore.

Looking forward to your pictures.

Bob

Tomkat
You didn't say what brand you have, I'm assuming Bachmann since you came here.

I have 2 GP40 and 2 GP35.  On DCC track, I have yet to see anything that needs fine tuning.  Are the tweaks you are considering worth the price of a high end controller?

Just a thought, it's your money.  Adjusting CVs is not a walk in the park, of course the manufacturers stress how easy it is, they want to sell their stuff.

Bob

Zog
The shell is made of a styrene type material.  If it's just cracked, it can be easily fixed. Go to a hobby shop and get a bottle of Testors #8872 liquid cement for plastic models.  It is very thin, has a precision needle applicator.  Don't use the old tube glue, it is too messy and hard to wick into tight places.

Gently spread the crack open a bit and apply a thin bead of cement, then press and hold the parts together for about 30 seconds.  Have a tissue handy to wipe off excess cement the moment you apply pressure.  Don't let the cement run or it will mar any plastic it touches.

Good luck
Bob

Since I only change modes occasionally, I don't even bother with switches. Both my DC and DCC are Bachmann with the same track plug.  I just unplug one and plug in the other.  Then there is no possibility of a mistake. 

Bob

Rich
I'm sure glad you're happy. I wouldn't want to see you when you are unhappy LOL
Bob

Sid
I have considered the 119, and may order a few in to try out, however I'm having good success with the #5 so far. (#148 )

Since I only have the EZ Command I can only program the rear unit for direction. I ran several tests and don't see any difference between  DC and DCC for the type of consist I am using. 

Before I started railroading, I visited a LHS for information and was told that everyone was going to DCC.  However, I noticed that most of his inventory was DC. Questioning his credibility I decided I needed further research.

My concern is that new modelers seem to be jumping into waters way over their head,  leading to frustration and dropping out of the hobby. 

Bob