The small power supplies provided with the sets are marginal at best. Running a locomotive that has not been lubricated, along with cars that perhaps have a little extra drag (again from lack of lubrication, or from collecting crud off the floor or carpet) can cause the circuit breaker in the power supply to drop out. It usually will automatically reset soon after the overload is removed. This is as you have described.

Once the circuit breaker trips once, the next slightly high current event will cause the breaker to trip at an even lower current level. Just a vicious cycle that results in lots of frustration.

If you have a volt meter, check the track voltage when the train stops and before you do anything else. If it is zero, then the problem is most likely the power supply circuit breaker.

Cleaning and lubricating the locomotive, cleaning the track (which might eliminate the slowing down in spots), and putting a very small amount of lubricant on the truck bearings should help, but the starter set power supply is still marginal.

The real permanent solution is to get a new, larger capacity power pack, as well as doing the above maintenance.

Hope this helps,

Happy RRing,

Jerry

We would need some more information to hekp make a determination of your probleM:

What engine?
What power supply?
What is the age of this equipment?
Has this engine ever worked?
Has it worked in your current setup (layout)?
What is it pulling?

Off hand, it sounds like you might have a power pack that is tripping from over current, and that you have some dirty track, but without lots more information, that is truly just a guess.

Happy RRing,

Jerry

Simkon:

I don't understand why you write that ". . . it would be highly unlikely that he has 1:32 . . ." scale trains? 1:32 scale is the correct scale / gauge combination for standard gauge model trains running on 45mm (Gauge 1) track, and has a very large following.

I also noticed that no one mentioned Mike's Train House (MTH), one of the leading suppliers of 1:32 scale trains.

As to the OP's question, if you are looking at those small bags of ballast material available from the hobby shops and on-line, you would probably want the coarsest material. Those small packages are really designed to be used with smaller scale trains. You might have a hard time affording enough material in those bags to scenic a 1:32 layout.

Instead, follow Jim Banner's suggestions on other materials not usually purchased from a model RR shop or on-line supplier. I screen my ballast for my 1:20.3 scale RR out of a very large pile of mixed sand and gravel. The gravel is used as underlayment for the roadbed. It truly does take a lot of material to ballast large scale track.

Happy RRing,

Jerry

I do essentially the same: Redwood, Titebond III, and 23ga. pins driven using a Grex brand pneumatic pinner.

I get scrap redwood (free) from a local lath mill. I also cut up salvaged material. Small, tight grain is preferable.

Titebond II is only 'water resistant.' Titebond III is 'water proof.'

I use the regular steel pins. They rust when in place, which increases their holding power. Stainless steel pins don't have as much 'grip' in the wood. In actuality, the pins only hold the joint while the glue dries. The glue is what keeps the joint together over the years.

Some of my retaining wall cribbing and trestle bents have been in place around 20 years. Can't remember a failure.

Happy (well joined) RRing,

Jerry

I just returned from my 'local' (~120 mile round trip) Costco. While perusing the aisles, I noticed a Bachmann H0 train set with a diesel engine, 3 freight cars and a caboose, a loop of track, power supply, some figures, RR signs and other accessory items. A really great looking starter set, all for the price of ~$47.00!

I work in 1:20.3, having long ago moved away from H0, but it was really hard to pass up what I believe is a great bargain, especially for a beginning model railroader. Christmas gifts any one??

FYI, I do not work for Costco or Bachmann. Just passing on the information.

Happy RRing,

Jerry

Jeff Saxton frequently posts on the Yahoo Groups 1:20.3 scale board. See:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/One-20point3/messages

Looking through recent posts will provide his contact information, and posting a message there should elicit his reply.

Happy RRing,

Jerry

Quote from: Matayoman on October 08, 2010, 02:01:31 PM
<snip> SO... It would be ok to run my light cars on the track, they may become damaged after prolonged use and this will not damage my brand new DCC controller??? <snip>

". . . damaged after prolonged use . . ." could be anywhere from a few minutes to some hours. Light bulb life is seriously affected by high voltages. You are taking a risk of having to replace the bulbs frequently. I wouldn't leave anything that I see the ". . .  lights turn on super bright . . ." on the track.

Of course if you like "super bright" and don't mind finding and installing new light bulbs, you can ignore these warnings. BTW, there is still the potential danger for heat damage to the plastic cars. It just (usually) takes longer.

Happy RRing,

Jerry

This might seem like a stupid concern, but I'm just exploring all possibilities to help make your setup work:

In addition to the great advice and technical information given above, are your electrical switches 'maintained contact' types? In other words, does the switch handle stay in the selected position or does it return to the center position when released? The Tortoise Switch Machines require maintained contact switches to operate properly. Most folks use a DPDT maintained contact with no center 'off' position to control Tortoise Machines.

They will appear to work with a DPDT (or 3PDT) maintained contact switch with a center off position, but if the center off position is selected (either accidently or on purpose), there is no power on the switch machine, thus defeating the self-holding capability of the Tortoise Machine. And, if your electrical switch is the type that is spring loaded to the center off position, the Tortoise Machines will move only while you are holding the switch in the selected direction, but they will not positively remain in the selected position. They require constant power on one of the coils to work properly.

Hope this helps.

Happy RRing,

Jerry

Quote from: railsider on September 20, 2010, 02:42:27 PM
<snip>Someone suggested long ago that coffee grounds (preferably very black!) makes a better ballast that real sand. The reason given is that even with the best glue work, a graina or two may work loose and could get into the gears and axles of a locomotive. Ouch! Coffee-grounds, on the other hand, are much softer and less destructive of small precision motors and devices. The lighter shades of coffee-grounds also make good "dirt" of various types.

Railsider

I definitely would not recommend the use of coffee grounds nor any other untreated organic materials to scenic a layout.

Coffee grounds are hydroscopic, that is they slowly pick up moisture from the atmosphere. When this happens, the organics in the damp coffee grounds support the growth of various fungi and molds. This produces an ugly combination of colors, dampness and odors that replace what was once good looking scenery. This is from personal experience in the dim, dark past.

For the best in long-life scenery effects, stick to inorganics or to materials specifically treated against mold and fungus growth.

Happy RRing,

Jerry

What ABC said in answer to your primary question.

As to the ". . . locos sputtering," that's very probably caused by dirty track or a poor connection between rail sections in the affected area.

Try cleaning the track by wiping the tops of the rails with a light solvent. Alcohol is a good rail cleaner, but there are nearly as many 'perfect' track cleaning agents as there are RR modelers.  Another suggestion is to wipe the track with Wahl Clipper Oil. Use the smallest amounts of the solvent and / or the oil, wiping them on, then wiping them off with a low lint towel. You might also need to clean the electrical pickup wheels on the locomotive. Same solvents, but applied with a Q-tip and / or a smaller cloth wipe.

Track connections can be checked with a voltmeter. You can buy an adequate one for ~$10 at places like Harbor Freight. Repair poor track connections by applying a pair of pliers to tighten the joiner. There can also be corrosion in the joint, requiring that the joiner be removed and a wire brush applied to restore electric continuity.

Hope this helps. Let us know what you find!

Happy RRing,

Jerry

Bachmann already manufactured a 1:20.3 standard gauge model. The GE 45 ton diesel is a standard gauge car body on narrow gauge trucks. GE designed it to be multi-gauge.

I am planning to convert all three of mine to SG in the near future.

Also, standard gauge and dual gauge 1:20 tie strips are available from Iron Creek Shops, so you do not have to handlay the track. Just slide the tie strips onto your code 250 rail.

Happy RRing,

Jerry

My wife & I like the biscotti sold by Costco. The product is manufactured in Texas, and we purchase it in N. California.

On their website, the manufacturer has a California Proposition 65 chemicals warning. For biscotti!!

Government gone crazy!

Happy RRing,

Jerry

Quote from: on30gn15 on July 11, 2010, 05:29:20 PM
That seems to work for these guys
http://www.railpictures.net/viewphoto.php?id=241861

BOY & HOW!!

That pix is definitely in the 'run what you brung' category..

Be certain that I was not in anyway denigrating anyone, nor any manufacturer who does not adhere to scale. Everyone has their own way of enjoying this great hobby!

Happy RRing,

Jerry

As you know, both the Little River 2-4-4-2 and the 2-6-6-2 in Flagstaff are standard (4' 8 1/2") gauge engines. To build them in 1:20 scale would mean they would require a model track gauge of 70.6mm or 2.78". The alternate would be to produce them to run on 45mm gauge track in 1:32 scale, or to one of the 'no prototype scales' of 1:29, 1:26, 1:22.5, etc . . .

As SG prototypes running on NG trackage, they would not find acceptance with the scale modeling community. To a scale modeler, they would look pretty funny if built as 1:20 scale, but running on 3' gauge track. That would mean very limited sales, primarily to the toy train fans.

Since I have some F Scale standard gauge (hand laid) trackage, I personally would welcome such an effort, but there are not many modelers working in F scale standard gauge. BTW, I do own H0 scale brass models of both the Little River 2-4-4-2, and the Sierra Railroad's #38 2-6-6-2. These relatively small Mallets are fascinating machines.

Even the current Bachmann 2-6-6-2 tank engine is based on a 3' narrow gauge engine that was proposed, but never built. Some of the 'rivet counters' won't even consider that engine since it does not have a specific prototype.

A further objection to the 2-6-6-2 tank engine is that Bachmann, in order to accommodate sharp radius curves, took the liberty of making the mechanism with both 'engines' pivoting. That arrangement is named a Meyers, rather than a Mallet. I know at least a couple of modelers who are working on changing them to a true Mallet configuration before putting them on their railroads. Not an insignificant task, but 'scale modeling' to many folks means it should follow the prototype in all respects possible.

Not trying to start a scale / gauge war here, but we are extremely fortunate to have Bachmann as a manufacturer of accurate, affordable 1:20.3 scale locomotives rather than taking the 'if it looks like a locomotive then it is close enough' scale concept that many other manufacturers tend to use.

Happy RRing,

Jerry

I don't personally have one, so this is based on observation of one I saw on a show floor and discussions with various owners.

The 'water tanks' are hollow plastic shells, and contribute very little to the weight of the locomotive. I can't imagine their removal would noticeably affect traction.

The real problem is that the 'boiler' is not complete in the area concealed by the tanks. It will look very strange (as in not looking like a steam locomotive) without rebuilding this area. This has been discussed on various forums (perhaps look at My Large Scale) where owners were considering reworking the locomotive into a tender equipped machine. I have not heard of one that has actually been done.

The prototype had to carry water in order to work, thus the tanks. Are you planning to use a tender? I think it is doable, but is a significant task when the boiler reconstruction is included. If traction is a problem, perhaps some weight could be added as you re-build the missing boiler area.

Hope this helps.

Happy RRing,

Jerry