A voltmeter will help to determine the problem, especially if it is a lack of contact between sections. A basic one can be had for around $10 from sources like Harbor Freight.

As ACY suggested, cleaning the track and locomotive wheels with a wiper saturated with alcohol is always a good idea.

Happy RRing,

jerry

Looks like your bead blaster is successful! For future reference, what is the media type & specification?

Be aware that you really only need to clean the 'head' portion of the rail where the wheels make contact. The dark color of the lower part of the rail will actually look like prototype weathering when installed. Even if you blast it, it will quickly darken, so no need to spend the time & effort to make your track look totally 'new.'

Same with the joiners: Only the 'inside' contact points need to be clean. If there is discoloration left on the outside, it will just blend into the scene.

BTW, I saw that someone suggested 'over the joiner' clamps. I would strongly recommend against using them. They still rely on the contact of the original joiner for conductivity. You incur the expense of a clamp without the mechanical reinforcement and contact improvement provided by a clamp that is in direct contact with the rail.

Hope this helps.

Happy RRing,

Jerry

Quote from: Peter O on January 01, 2011, 09:14:01 AM
How long is your 5 foot radius section. Peter.

"Peter O:"

"laxrebel" wrote that he is using "5'D" curves. I interpret that as meaning 5' diameter which is only a 2' 6" radius, not a 5' radius.

There is no way this locomotive will be happy on 2' 6" radius curves. I am surprised it goes through there at all.

To "laxrebel:" Take a look at Bachmann's recommended radius for the 2-8-0. Specified minimum is 4' radius, 8' diameter.

Happy RRing,

Jerry

Quote from: ACY on January 02, 2011, 04:09:34 PM
Although On30 is 1:48th scale, it is not much bigger than HO because narrow gauge railroad equipment was not as big as standard gauge equipment in real life. There is not anything to gain from switching from HO to On30, it is harder to find, more expensive, and if you need help, you may have trouble finding a knowledgeable person locally. Unless narrow gauge is what you are looking for, stick to HO or if you want larger (and more durable) buy a Williams O gauge set.

In my opinion, ACY's assertion that ". . . there is not anything to gain in switching from H0 to 0n30 . . ." is just plain wrong.

First, comparing H0 to 0n30, there is a significant difference in the size of similar equipment, buildings and accessories. As just one example, take a look at the difference in the height of an H0 (1:87) scale person as compared to an 0 (1:48) scale person:

6' tall H0 scale person: 0.83"
6' tall 0 scale person: 1.5", or nearly twice the height.

As to ACY's further assertion about 0n30 rolling stock and accessories being ". . . harder to find, more expensive . . .", take a look at the variety of locomotives and rolling stock available here at Bachmann Trains. Then go to a major online supplier such as Micro-Mark and look at their pricing. When comparing the (very attractive) pricing, remember that the 0 scale locomotives and rolling stock are nearly twice the size of the same item in H0 scale.

For further assurance, pick up a couple of issues of the magazine Narrow Gauge & Short Line Gazette and look at the plethora of plans, construction articles and advertisements for 0 scale structures, rolling stock and accessories. That is just one resource, but you will find lots to choose from!

0n30 equipment is definitely modeled on narrow gauge prototypes, and is generally limited to older industrial, branch line or short line railroads. No huge diesels or multiple unit streamliners in 0n30, but if you have interest in steam engines, have limited funds and / or space, and want models that are easier to handle, build and see (ideal for both older and younger modelers), 0n30 is a great compromise scale / gauge combination.

Hope this helps.

Happy (Better Informed) RRing,

Jerry

I would suggest that you do not use anything that puts scratches or other roughness on the track. Scratches from things like sandpaper (no matter how fine) or roughness from sand media blasting can leave microscopic defects in the rails that tend to collect dirt and / or corrode faster, thus exacerbating the problem.

Most of the track powered folks I know use a pole sander with a bright boy pad instead of sandpaper. That should restore the the conductivity. I would also think that your fine bead (not sand) blaster would be okay. Probably best to follow that up with a bright boy pad.

Changing the LGB rail joiners is not easy, and frequently leads to destroying the first tie. Not good. Perhaps try the bead blaster on the inside of the joiners and the outside of the rail where they mate, then reshape the joiner to be tight on the inserted rail.

Another possibility is to remove the LGB slip joiners (they are destroyed by the removal process) and replace them with rail clamps. There are several brands available. My favorite is the Hillman's Rail Clamps, but others report good results with Split Jaw, etc.

And yet another possible solution for a permanent layout is to solder a jumper wire to the outside of the rails, bypassing the joiner electrically. The original joiner is then only used for the mechanical connection.

Hope this helps.

Happy (Good Conductivity) RRing,

Jerry

Quote from: AndyL on January 01, 2011, 07:42:53 AM
I just found this photo of a wall pack supplied with a UK set. Doesn't mention the output frequency though.

AndyL:

The output frequency of that "AC - AC Adapter" will definitely be the same 50 Hz (50 Cycles) as the input. That unit should be a direct substitute for the AC Adapter supplied with U.S. sets.

The advice to check with the AUS supplier is a good one. They probably have the correct AC - AC Adapter for AUS.

Although no one here has mentioned the input frequency labeling on their U.S. set, it is most likely designed for 50 / 60Hz. That allows Bachmann (and most manufacturers) to just switch the provided AC - AC Adapter ('Wall Wart') when providing sets for use in other countries.

Does anyone here have a U.S. set like AndyL's that they can check the labeling on the Power Pack / Speed Controller? We especially need to know the listed input frequency.

Happy RRing,

Jerry

Kris, All:

DO NOT ATTEMPT TO DO AS KRIS DIRECTED ABOVE!

IT WILL NOT WORK FOR SINGLE PHASE 220 VAC HOUSEHOLD CIRCUITS FOUND IN COUNTRIES OUTSIDE THE U.S.

REWIRING AS KRIS RECOMMENDS WILL NOT PROVIDE 11OV, AND CAN POTENTIALLY CREATE A VERY DANGEROUS SITUATION.

Kris, you do not know what you are talking about. You have advised folks to do something that could damage their equipment, their houses, and possibly seriously injure or kill themselves. It is outrageous to post such a suggestion on a public message board. Will you (or your parents) be liable for the damage or injury that can be done by someone following your instructions? Please post the address for those damaged to send their claim to.

Regardless of Kris' claim of expertise, here is the fact: 220V single phase circuits found in other countries are 220V wire to wire. Unlike some U.S. single phase 220V circuits, there is no neutral that can be broken out to provide 110V. There are only three wires in a single phase British-style 220V outlet: Blue (Hot), Brown (Neutral), and Green/Yellow (Ground). The voltage from 'hot' to either the 'neutral' or the 'ground' is 220V. Australian household power circuits have the same wire to wire voltages and follow the same color codes. It is NOT POSSIBLE to derive 110V by rewiring that arrangement. That includes following Kris' instructions to run a new neutral or ground wire. You will still have the full 220V at the outlet.

I truly hope no one reads Kris' post and attempts to do this very dangerous modification.

Happy (Better Informed) RRing,

Jerry

Kris:

Why would you need to use code 83 rail? Atlas H0 track is available in both code 100 & code 83.

But if you are going to use an 18" radius turnout, probably better to stay with the Bachmann products.

Better still, I would use a #6 turnout if at all possible. That especially when your proposed helix will be 22" radius.

Happy RRing,

Jerry

It is easy to remove the front truck on the 4-6-0, but it will look like a locomotive with the front truck missing, not a model of an 0-6-0.

Compare pix of the 4-6-0 to your proposed 0-6-0 and you will see that the location of the pilot, front of the boiler, position and size of the drivers, and the overall length of the engine are probably quite different.

As to whether you will be satisfied with the result: Whatever looks okay to you is what is important.

The good news is that replacing the front truck is just as easy as removing it!

Happy RRing,

Jerry

Peter:

I think you left out a decimal point in the sustained running parameters:

Quote<snip> sustained running at .4V, 2 amps <snip>

--should probably be--

" sustained running at .4V, .2 amps "

Happy RRing,

Jerry

Pushing the locomotive by hand is very stressful on the gears, and can easily cause severe damage to them. It is also hard on the wheels, possibly wearing through the plating or creating flat spots that will cause poor performance when under power. Even the track can be accidently damaged beyond use by a young engineer's inadvertent actions. Allowing him to push a dummy engine does not solve the problem of teaching him the limitations of H0 trains.

Much better to get the youngster a toy train (as opposed to a model train) that has some plastic or wood track and is made to be pushed by hand.

Save the electric train for powered operation under adult supervision. Having a broken train is a big disappointment for all!

Happy RRing,

Jerry

I live in the People's Republic of California. Virtually every store and everything sold here has the CA Prop 65 Warning either on the building or on the item.

This is a political initiative from our liberal driven nanny government. Its only real purpose is to provide continuous employment for more state bureaucrats and their minions. With a few exceptions (Example: Drinking gasoline can definitely be bad for your health), it has virtually nothing to do with the reality and presence of harmful substances.

It is probably impossible to ascertain why Bachmann (or their Chinese manufacturing unit) felt compelled to put that warning on the product, but as others have suggested, your track is not going to harm your family nor the environment around your house. Common sense is the total solution: Don't lick or eat the track. Only use it for it's intended purpose. Washing one's hands after playing and especially before eating is considered to be a healthy practice no matter what the activity.

A True Story: A few years ago, I purchased some Biscotti at Costco. Looking at the (Texas) baking company's website, I saw a CA Prop 65 warning. I called their Texas based marketing department and asked about the warning. They were astounded. Seems their website contractor was in California, and basically put the CA Prop 65 warning on every product they advertised, just so there wouldn't be any questions from our nanny government officials. I haven't looked to see if this warning has been removed, but I can report that several years later, and after consuming many of the delicious Biscotti, my friends, wife and I are still in very good health.

So much for California politicos.

Happy RRing,

Jerry

Kris:

It sounds like you bought a 'maintained contact' switch. You really need a 'momentary contact' switch.

Your 'warning' is not going to prevent accidental positioning of the switch, thus burning out the point motor. The correct 'momentary' switch is lots cheaper and easier to install than a new turnout.

Also, you really shouldn't be suggesting that others get the incorrect switch. Changing your link to a 'momentary contact' switch would be a good idea.

Happy RRing,

Jerry

Quote from: DMC-4-6-0 on December 12, 2010, 10:10:09 PM
Im wondering now that the Sierra No. 3 - the "Movie Star Locomotive" is up and running again is there any plans to make a G scale model of it.

Not very likely: Sierra #3 is a standard gauge locomotive. Reducing it to Fn3 (1:20 scale / 3' gauge) would make the resulting model an orphan, clearly not representing the #3 as she was built.

Same with making the model in 1:22.5 (the scale of Bachmann's Big Hauler line): A 1:22.5 scale model of #3 running on 45mm track would represent a prototype gauge of 1 meter or ~39.37", another orphan, and clearly not a model of the Sierra #3.

(Edited 12/15/10: Thanks to Joe Satnik for finding my 1:22.5 scale / prototype gauge error!)

Happy RRing,

Jerry

And note: The items Wade mentioned are all from the "Big Hauler" line, and are thus nominally 1:22.5 scale. I say nominally, because the Big Hauler line takes lots of liberties as to accurate scale measurements.

Happy RRing,

Jerry