Very nice, lots of switching.

Sorry about that, i wasent referring to you as a begginer to the hobby i just meant a hobbyist that has a full DC layout would be more likely to buy just the loco and controller with no need for the track, so in that case the full set is a better begging set cause it includes a full layout. In your case though that makes full sense. So i guess what im saying is the conversation kinda drifted towards the general idea of the set and away from your origional question.

Thanks, it most likely would be lubrication, or decoder programing, i just recently got a dt100 throttle which has full programing capabilities so while playing around and hitting buttons i may have screwed up the speed steps. Great hopefully that works.

Quote from: hawaiiho on January 24, 2009, 09:04:32 PM
Darrell, I not sure it is the turnout. When I only run an older DC loco, with the Command Controller only controling the turnout, everything works fine. It is when I run one of the new DCC locos and then try to control the turnout that I have problems.
Works fine for several cycles of the turnout and then it quits. It doesn't make me any happier though, particular since I am using a layout taken off the box the set come in. Reprogramming the new locos didn't help, either.

After doing some research ive found that the set does say that there manual switches, and not for the sake of arguement that if you were a model railroader switching to DCC should probably get the digital commander with a locomotive set instead of the full one with track and all. But its the buyers choice. Also theres a large price difference between a DCC switch and a remote switch but oh well.

its not actually as suprising as it may seem, the set is a "starter set" intended as a great relatively inexpensive start to the hobby and like you just said the DCC turnouts are very expensive so adding them to the set would be pricey and destroy the whole inexpesive idea so manual turnouts make sense. my advice would be tho put the manual turnouts near the controls hence were the driver is were it would be silly to pay and add a dcc turnout, then use the DCC ones farter away from you on the other side of the layout.

first of all is the nickel silver track that came with the set still easy track(im almost positive it is)and the steel track is easy track than it should all be compatible. Next are you trying to mix easytrack with standard non roadbed track, if so its perfectly fine it just takes a little work to connect. and all track in the same scale is or should be compatible and dcc should also work with any track as long as its clean.
Tyler

Recently ive had 2 locos that have one day all of the sudden decided to only go about half speed that they did the last time they were run. the 2 engines were a bachmann DCC onboard GP-38 and an atlas dash 8 with a digitraxs decoder. Ive programmed all my locos to run all at fairly similar speeds but now these 2 locos are restricted to going quite slow, Whats up?

If the seats on the car are low enough below the window sill, than you could begin the painful process of cutting off the figures bottom half.

I have a blueline AC6000 and it was programmed with a digitraks zepher, which has much better programming capabilites than the ez-command so im not sure how much luck youll have. even on the digitraks system i had a similar problem, the bluelines sound board must be seperatly programed from the decoder. to do this you remove the decoder and insert one of the two other pins included(im not sure which one at the moment). the motor is the only function being controlled by the decoder, so what youve programed sofar is just the motor. It should work after that but if not then youll just have to switch the two pins or just repeat the process again untill it works. hopefully this helps and you get it programmed, bluelines are amazing locomtives in everyway exept the programming which is a painful and trial filled process. good luck.
Tyler

Oh no sorry that was unclear, it was a 45" radius curve.

Digitraks is also very reliable.

I am having troubles posting pictures on this discussion board, it is telling me my files are either to big or it took to long to download. Can anyone help?

on our club layout we recently got 129 free rolling coal cars pulled by 2 Athearn Genesis SD70s and one SD70 on the rear. the minimum radius curve was 45 degrees.

Yeah for sound you need a sound decoder and speaker, some locos come equipped with places to install the speaker but i dont think the locomotives in that set do so there would be some possibly lots of modifications. the decoder itself is quite pricey, ive seen them ranger anywhere from 70-130 dollars and they range in dificulty to install. I have 4 sound equipped locos and it really is a great investment, but 3 were factory installed sound decoders and one was specially desinged for the kato locomotive. If there really is no space in the locos then i would suggest purchasing a dummy loco and installing sound in that, that way theres plenty of room for the decoder and speaker.
Tyler

It theres no ac slots in it and i dont believe there are, youll have to either find another powerpack(even just a cheap old one that has the ac slots and use that. It you can find a transformer with the appropriate voltage and hook that up directly to the accesories. Ive done bother on my layout and you can usually find a used bin of power packs at hobby shops.