The red wires are usually on the right side of the locomotive (engineer's side). Of course it is possible the loco was wired incorrectly at the factory. It happens.

I just read through the PDF again, something you should know.

If you look at the default CV values table, CV29 is set to "2" at the factory, means "analog" operation (DC) is disabled.  If you want to continue running the loco on DC power, you need a DCC controller capable of changing the value to "6".

Sort of a "catch 22" huh?   They want (all) your money!    I won't recommend any particular controller (unless you ask what I use LOL), you need to buy one that will suit your needs and wants.

Since the decoder is an "upgrade" (their words) for the Bachmann DCC board, they probably assume one already has a DCC controller. Isn't this fun?  Well, I'm enjoying this, I like helping others spend their money. 

Mathew,
I just remembered that NCE has a decoder designed specifically to replace the DCC board in Bachmann DCC equipped GP35, GP40, and GP50. If your locos have the usual light board, then this might also work as a direct replacement without requiring additional space. 

http://www.ncedcc.com/bachdv35.pdf

Once you remove a shell, see if this looks like your setup. You will need a low wattage (15 to 25 watt) pencil soldering iron and solder.

The PDF file has instructions to install, read it through. Note on page 3 that the capacitors must be clipped from the motor for proper operation. (note warning, don't clip the "dog bone" inductors) See bottom picture, capacitors are on top under the board on the GP series.  LED lights are included.  This might be the perfect answer for your upgrades.

Caboose Hobbies has the decoders in stock at $15.55.
http://www.caboosehobbies.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=346_349&products_id=29411

Several members use NCE decoders and seem very pleased with them.

Hope this helps.

I found a loose horn in the box of a GP40, but I was able to stick it back on. I actually like the smaller packaging for storage purposes, and it probably keeps the price reasonable.

Hi Fred,
Your searching really paid off, congratulations. Suggest you put the site in your favorites folder so you can help others with the same issue.

Have a safe weekend, as for me I'm staying home. 

Mathew,
Please be assured you aren't offending anyone here. We just want you to have as much information as possible. More information from you will help.

1.  Are the locos HO scale?

2.  How old are they? If they are the newer release with 8 wheel drive, then they are probably good runners. This is probably the most important factor.

I have been told by professional installers that the main problem is lack of room for the decoder. Installers usually have a milling machine to cut down the metal chassis to provide space for a decoder.

Suggest removing the shell of one loco and see how much space you have. If you can post a few pictures that would help.

The main thing I gather from your last post, is that you have the right attitude to do the job yourself.  "If it works it works".  You have just a little to lose, but a whole bunch to gain if you can pull it off.  I think most will agree, in model railroading "attitude is everything". If you need more motivation, I would say "GO FOR IT!"  Of course I have nothing to lose. LOL

Good luck. 

Hi Fred,
Sorry I can't help, I run HO scale. Your question would probably be more appropriate for the N scale section.

Regards.

Yep, most trading posts are a can of worms, usually people wanting to get rid of their junk stuff.

I have lots of new things I don't need (buyer's remorse), but I'll just keep them in the boxes. They will never go down in value so I really have nothing to lose.

Caboose Hobbies will take new locos on consignment, but I think it is limited to more expensive brass or exceptional popular plastic.

I use the Bachmann USRA medium tender with all my 2-8-0. Box measures 4 inches long, room for a full size sound decoder. Best place for the speaker is under the coal load.

The tender has the male connector on the front, but a female / female harness is included if the male connector is mounted on the locomotive.

Thanks Jim, much better. I have my text size set to "largest" which also causes me problems at web sites. Thank goodness for copy and paste, can't imagine typing a 211 character URL. 

In case some members don't know about "Tiny URLs":
http://tinyurl.com/

Precision Scale offers several air pumps that will work, very reasonably priced.

http://www.caboosehobbies.com/catalog/index_home.php?cPath=280_281_282&sort=3a&filter_id=790

Parts are listed alphabetically, scroll down. For other manufacturer listings, see this page, select from "Show" manufacturers drop down list. "Cal Scale" also has air pumps, slightly higher priced.

http://www.caboosehobbies.com/catalog/index_home.php?cPath=280_281_282

Regards.

I always hated story problems. Like, one train leaves at 9 AM, travels at 50 mph. Another train leaves at 12 noon, at 60 mph. But the first train had to back up for 5 minutes at 10 mph, the second train had a 10 minute delay due to cows on the tracks, yada yada.  Phooey. 

A little "realism" goes a long way. Without imagination, model railroading would be a constant frustration, trying to achieve "absolute realism".  The typical HO scale pole doesn't even look like a pole, it looks like a piece of plastic. 

I don't have poles on my layout. Representing a modern day railroad or excursion with vintage equipment, all my phone and electric lines are "underground" and out of sight. How realistic is that?

I saw a TV documentary about a guy who had achieved "absolute realism".  His wife and dog left him, his eyes were glazed over, he was trembling and spoke in unintelligible grunts.

Now, who posted the mile long URL?  Please have pity on those of us who don't have 54" monitors and 10,000 X 7500 resolution.    Just kidding, but what happened to "Tiny URLs"?

You're welcome. If you have further questions as you proceed, just continue this thread.  Suggest placing this thread in your favorites so you can recall it when needed, rather than start a new thread each time you have a related question. It really helps with the continuity of the discussion.

When adding threads from this forum to your "favorites" you need to change the page name in the dialog box, otherwise each subsequent page you save will over write the previous. The default page name is always "Bachmann Trains Online - Ask Bachman".  Just change that name to, in this case, "DCC and Sound Decoder 9382".

When it comes to followups of a specific topic, it pays to "keep all your eggs in one basket".

Good luck.

Jeffery,
Upgrading these locos may not be difficult for you and me, but to modelers just starting up in DCC it might be a daunting task, especially if they don't have an electrical background or test equipment.

The first impression of a new venture needs to be that of success. We don't know if Mathew is up to the task, only in his words, "I have no clue on what to get". This indicates to me that he hasn't done sufficient research yet. This forum is a good place to start. He can take all the comments, weigh them against his skills, (and wallet) and make sensible conclusions on how to proceed. 

If you read my post again notice I didn't say, "I think they are poor candidates", because I rarely express opinions about anything train related. I base  my statements on experience, either my own or that of professionals.

As for the "budget" aspect. I have 8 Bachmann DCC equipped diesels, all purchased at $40 or less each.  Of course, since Mathew has 6 DC locos, he finds himself between a rock and a hard place. I'm glad it's his decision and not mine to make.

With my background in modeling and electronics, I would be tempted to try at least one for my own edification. But with my eyesight and growing impatience it would probably be frustrating. (It comes with old age)  I have to weigh expense and effort against my blood pressure. 

Whenever someone asks about an upgrade, I always refer to this site first:
http://www.tcsdcc.com/HO_Search/search.html

If I don't find a loco listed, I become suspicious of the practicality. It it was easy and economically practical, then everyone would be doing it. In response to Mathew's question I spent hours searching the net, and didn't find a single documentation on the questioned upgrade.

Regards. 

Hi Mathew, welcome to the forum.

Ask 10 modelers about DCC controllers, you will likely get 10 different recommendations. That's why you need to do a lot of research and study before purchasing a controller.  I also recommend "The DCC Guide" by Don Fiehmann.

As for locomotives, the general consensus is that the Bachmann standard line of diesels are not good candidates for upgrading to DCC. This is evidenced by the lack of information regarding decoder installs in these locomotives.

The question you have to ask yourself....is it worth $20 and considerable effort to upgrade a $35 locomotive?  I just talked to the decoder install technician at Caboose Hobbies, installs in the Bachmann standard line are possible but not recommended. The cost of a custom install by a qualified technician is prohibitive.

However, since you have 6 of them it would be a waste not to consider upgrading them. It's your choice, just wanted you to be aware of possible complications and expense.

Bottom line, it's your money and your railroad, no one else can tell you how you should run it or what equipment you should purchase.

Regards.