Rick,

Yes, that's him.

Craig, click on the website Rckc9 posted.

AlanC,

I don't have the specific 2-8-0 you have, but from what I'm gathering in your question, you have too much slack in your connecting wires.  What the Bachman said is correct. Remove the tender shell and pull the slack back into the tender.  Also make sure your drawbar is in the midst of the wire bundle.  While you have the shell off, add weight in areas that will not interfer with the electronics.  Since I don't have one I can't tell you specifically where. I have two DC 2-8-0s and I don't have any problem with the wheel gages.  Good luck.

Hey, I think you're right.  You can sort of read his post both ways.

Rich,

Thanks for the great websites.  Again you have gone far and above.

Craig,

There is a guy named Harold Minkey, who is a member of this board, and occasionaly he posts his website showing some of his scenery work.  Do a search for Hminkey and view some of his pictures.  In my opinion he is one of the best scenery craftsmen on this board.

By the way, did you try the Saran Wrap between your layers?

Jon,

Great work, great filming...just everything is great!  Man, I envy you and your artistic eye.

thanks for posting.

I was wondering if there is any type of cleaning spray that you can spray on the bushes and rotors of an open frame motor?

Years and years ago when TV viewers used to have to get up and manually change the channel selector (Auuugh!), there was a spray our TV repairman used to spray the contacts.  They were made of copper back then and every so often a slight film of corrosion would form.  He would spray the solution, rotate the channel selector a few times, and viola, it worked!

I have been tempted to use alcohol, but as bad as my motors are sparking, I'm afraid of a major conflagration.

I've seen that a couple of times on TV.  I am usually looking at the track and roadbed to get some scenery ideas.  As a matter of fact I couldn't even tell you what automobile manufacturer is advertising. 

Heath,

I've used rubber molds and the only trouble I've run into is not allowing my plaster to dry sufficiently to remove it from the molds.  Every now and then the plaster rocks will crack when I remove them, but for the most part I have never had any problem.  Another thing to keep in mind is NOT to make your plaster too thin with water.  If it is too thin, your casting doesn't have sufficient strength to remove it from the mold and it will crack.

Jon,

Abosuletly beautiful work.  I don't have as much talent in my whole body as you do in your little finger. 

Make more pictures!!!!

Count me in on another Spectrum 2-8-2.  I mentioned on another thread that I would like an Americanized 2-8-2 SY, but after seeing a picture of the Harriman that Orsonroy posted, I would definintely get a couple of those.  They are very beautiful and clean locomotives.

I have dealt with Bachmann service only twice in about the past 5 years.  Nothing but great responses from them.

Nice work Terry...looks like they will be a lot of fun.

Paul,

Click on the link below....click on diesel locomotives and scroll all the way to the bottom.  You'll find a picture of an S12 there although the number is different.

http://www.rr-fallenflags.org/mp/mp.html

About a year ago they sent me a survey to complete.  They wanted to know some things about me personally (Like Dr EMD mentions) what scale did I model, questions about scenery, electrical and just general information.  I'm trying to recall how they got my e-mail address, but it's been so long I can't remember.  Anyway, I guess they do this periodically. It makes good customer relationships....even if brutally so!