Do you mean the Dynamis cordless system or anothe PRO?


Rick

The train store I purchased my first loco from after getting back in the HO habbit - excuse me, I mean hobby is owned by one man & his wife.  They are also open only part time Tue, Thurs and Fri then all day Saturday.  Their hook is they are a club first and vendor second.

He buys from Walthers and has a good stock.  The loco I purchased from him was a Proto 2000 Heritage Series 2-10-2 Heavy Steam Loco DCC and Sound.  It happened to be on sale at Walthers for $180.  He dropped his price to match Walthers.  I *believe* shops that buy from Walthers have this opportunity.  He for sure couldn't have withstood the price drop from $500 to $180.

I called two Tulsa 'hobby shops" asking about Atlas turnouts and motors - no one could tell me a thing except "I think we have what you want."

I'll buy at Erail when I can and other online stores when possible. http://www.erailhobbies.com/

Rick

I used the Scenemasters couplers on my old rolling stock that wasn't worth a truck & metal wheels and coupler update.  Some of these were also cheap plastic ebay stock that no doubt came with train sets.  I haven't had to buy any Kadee yet - the time is getting close though.  I need one coupler in a screw on box for the tender of my 2-10-2 Steam locomotive.

But if you do have quite a few hook-horn couplered cars and want to save them these are inexpensive and do work.  If your hook-horn has a plastic whisker holding it in these will work.  Magnets will uncouple them - I tried this on the first two box cars they were put on.


Luck-
Rick

That would ave been Yampa Bob mentioning the roadbed.

I purchased 3 boxes of the Woodland Scenics Road Bed to use in my upcoming 4x8.  We tried it on the first double oval but he had a hard time with the corners.  Try splitting it around the curves - it makes for easier stretching & bunching.

     

I'm also considering 1/4" or 1/2" sheet of foam insulation atop the plywood.

Rick
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What type material are you taking paint off?  I'm going to be removing paint off three Proto 2000 diesel locomotives my bro-in-law gave me this weekend.  They're BN GP18 & 20 and a GN SD7 locos.  These are die-cast metal.

I think when I was younger and more honest with myself "die-cast metal" was called "pot-metal." ...cheapest metal you could find.

Okie Rick

Quote from: IndianaJones12 on March 28, 2009, 03:16:02 PM
Well, now I have a question. I read on another topic that you could'nt just drop in a Bachmann E-Z mate coupler into the same coupler box as the Horn Hook couplers. I have many cars and loco's with Horn Hook couplers, and I want to replace them. Anyone know anything about this, and what type of coupler I should use?

I changed all but 4 of my hook-horn cars to knuckle couplers using Scenemaster Couplers:

10 Pair
Walthers Part # 433-1427, p. 259 Walthers 2009 HO Scale Reference
HO scale, $7.98, currently in stock at Walthers

* Works with All Other Knuckle Couplers * Constructed of Tough Engineering Plastic * Magnetic Action * Easy Upgrade for Older Life-Like Train Set Cars

They're cheap and work.  Fish out your Hook-Horn & slip these in. 

luck-
Rick

Quote from: Yampa Bob on March 28, 2009, 03:19:59 AM
I just took the cover off a USRA Medium, the Kadee #148 Whisker is a drop in replacement. It's the same as #5 except with built in springs.

The way the box is molded I don't think there's room for the #5 spring. I had to back off the screw a bit to keep from binding the coupler.

Somewhere during the Sound addition to that 2-10-2 I lost the screw, box and coupler.  I need all the works.  I haven't purchased Kadee yet - is there a box & screw for the #148?

thanks

Are they DCC ready?

Possibly this?

http://www.tcsdcc.com/decoderpics/Bachmann GE DASH/BACHMANN GE DASH.htm

or the NCE BachDSL

Bob, I'd really really like to thank you for the snow you and Denver sent our way but...I don't like snow.  The only more awkward than a hog on ice is a wheelchair on ice!

.....but thanks.

Rick
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Will a #5 fit on the back bottom of my 2-10-2 tender?  It's a small box & screw.  Like this... (thanks Yampa Bob)




What size to replace that rear coupler?

Okie?

Quote from: db22 on March 27, 2009, 11:35:49 AM
I have Bachmann cabooses with the metal wheels that are isolated from one side to the other so I used the copper spring assy from the Kaydee couplers and spread the spring wings to run against the inside of the wheels on each side. The copper piece is screwed on with the truck mounting screw and the trucks aligned so that the conducting wheels are on either side. I soldered a wire onto the copper piece and drilled a hole into the box of the car approx in the middle. The wires are then mounted to an LED with an operating voltage of 14v. BTW the LED has an internal resister. The LED is glued inside the caboose for the desired effect. Use yellow or red or a white LED. I run DCC and all is well.

How are the wheels isolated from both rails?  I've been thinking about this all week...how to isolate one wheels and axle from one side and the other wheel(s) and axle(s) from the other? 

I was about to ask somone around here to cut a piece out of an axle and replace it with some heat shrink insulating tubing or even a short piece of small diameter rubber or plastic hose or tubing.  I have access to the small diameter plastic tubing from the hospital - or it may be available at a hobby shop.  With the axle separated getting contact on each rail separately.

Whoah...Yampa Bob posted a pic of the underside of a tender, let's see...
How are these wheels insulated Bob?





Other ideas for power from the track anyone?

Rick

Chuck S and all who have DCC Diesels and want to easily add sound -

MRC has "drop in" sound decoders with a speaker enclosed in a baffle for $39.98 - find them at your local / favorite hobby shop.  They are on sale at Walthers for $29.98 but backordered - Due in May 06, 2009.

http://www.modelrectifier.com/search/product-view.asp?ID=8094

"The new Sounder is a sound-only decoder and speaker that's easily added to any HO locomotive equipped with a standard, non-sound decoder or any piece of rolling stock equipped with wheel pickups. Imagine how easier it would be to add sound to any train without the hassle of cramming a sound decoder and speaker in your locomotive. The Sounder adds all 28 NMRA accessory sound function capability to HO diesel locomotive, regardless of the make, or brand of decoder installed. The railroader simply hooks up two wires to the track power pickup points in the loco, and suddenly he can enjoy MRC's rich, Brilliance™ sound including two types of EMD 2nd generation prime mover sounds, multiple horns & bells, brakes, air releases, pop valves, cooling fans, coupling sounds and more. And not just sound. Using simple soldering techniques, the Sounder can provide a full complement of locomotive lighting effects: Prime Stratolight; Mars; Ditch; Gyro; Strobe (single & double); and on/off function for internal lighting.

This 17mm marvel comes with a 28mm speaker and baffle to enhance the full & powerfully vibrant range, performance and functionality only available from MRC.


* Use with any HO diesel non-sound decoder from MRC or any other brand
* Full 28 NMRA function capability
* Use with any NMRA compatible DCC system to add sound "on the rails" or      "below the rails"
* Simple 2-wire hookup
* Superb Brilliance sound quality with multiple sounds and volume selectability
* Capable of providing six dynamic lighting effects
* 18V maximum input"


Luck in findng them - here's a list of hobby shops that have purchased them from Walthers.

http://www.walthers.com/exec/locate?part_no=500-1662

Visit your local hobby shop today!

Okie Rick
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                               I'm Chug!

Oh yeah.  One of those moments that come around all too seldom in a person's life.

One of those "Go ahead, take your best shot" moments.

Keep 'em coming folks - it all has to do with trains.


Okie Rick


                                 

Proto 2000 with QSI have the same magic wand.  If you lose it any small magnet will do.


Rick