re-read the above response.

Rich C.

SId;
I  just checkedthe 'pantry' and there is a belt (17mmX34tpb) available.  I wonder if, with a little coaxing-it wold fit...

Rich C.

There are four Vandebilt tenders that I know Bachmann makes.  Which one are you referring to?   I have installed in Hicken tenders, and the smaller tenders.  My advice, if you are referring to smallest tenders is to use an "N" scale decoder, and then find your way around with the speaker.  I opted for installing ot in what turned out  to be the coal bunker.  I drill small holes all over the "coal pile", and then glue, then sprinkle some coal atop it, thus hiding the holes.  Installing the speaker:   I would suggest researching the different options you will have available.  Whatever you do, keep it neat-and simple.
Rich C. 

Look on line for this locomotive.  You will find lube instructions.  Follow them, and make sure you get as much old grease out as you can.  Dried up grease has the consistency of old boogers, and you really want those gears to be operating in a nice clean smooth environment.

Rich C.

Tender trucks will, by prototype practice, vary in type, size, as well as appearance.  I have "built" several tenders using Bachmann parts, as well as brass parts, and truck type; for instance, I have used 'drop-frame express trucks' on some of my tenders.  The one thing I will recommend is to use the same preparatory care that you would use on other trucks; by this I mean, check your wheelsets, if you have plastic trucks, use that wheel tool to clean up the axle bearing area, then use graphite, or another type pf dry lube.  I use graphite.  Also, if the tender is equipped with  plastic wheelsets, my advice is to lose them and get metal-your choice of mfgr-wheels.  If the tender has electrical connections (most do), then ensure the continuity is good.

Rich C.

You are looking at an extremely challenging proposition.  These locomotives are none too flush with room.  Personally, I would suggest toying around with an 'N'scale decoder.  The motors and the other innards aren't all that big, thus not too demanding for wattage, so check this thought out.  I have two Mantua Camelbacks, and did just that with them.  I also have a Keystone GE 44-ton switcher... I have as yet to get up the nerve...  A watchmaker I am not!

Rich C.

Cork, I believe, is the most widely used, but there is another type, sort of plastic-y.  I don't like it, but it does have some great deadening qualities, if that is what you are looking for.
I am using 1/4" plywood (underlayment).  I am in the experimental stage with it, but I am laying out the track pattern, and cutting it out by band saw.  I am doing this because of the stability.  Why don't you  look on Central Valley's web-site to their flex system.  It is worth a look-see.

RIch C.

J-3a;
Too bad it isn't so easy to get and install a centrifugal clutch (like was used in the old (?) dial phones.  What this would act like is, the faster you rev the motor, the farther out the dogs span, to finally hit the flywheel-you get the idea.  I think a few guys messed around with the idea in the "olden days".

RIch C.

I am going to stay with the "Boston and Maine" logo and just keep it as stock as I can.  On my railroad, I will be able to interchange B&M with my road.  I like the engine I like the way it runs, so there...

RIch C.

The A-5 is a good little model.  Unfortunately, the only thing in the 'consumer' line is about as appetizing as last weekends' franks and beans...  The linkage, gear, etc is practically non-existent; the boiler and cab are OK.  The really nice looking ones ARE the brass models, with full valve gear, etc.  And they are not exactly cheap.

Rich C.

Given the characteristics of DCC, you cannot use a common reversing circuit for a unit using it.
Rich C

Take Brock's advice:  Buy a replacement motor.  Pretty much any run-of-the-mill motor isn't worth fiddling around with, unless you want to do just that.

Rich C.

Hunt;
OK, thanks.

Rich C

Steel track;
I relegate it to the nearest dumpster.  No exceptions!
Jim; Your layout; you do what you want.  I would solder every joint; after making them mechanically sound.  Never butt-joint, unless you are going to silver solder.  Too many chances being taken.  Much more better to just sit back with a manhatten, and watch the trains do their thing, than to be trying to find that dead track when the problem is erratic.

Rich C.

Joe;
I as well.  In a set of contacts, the line side and the load side are fixed; the movable part is a "bridge" affair that simultaneously connects both.  A relay is built differently, which I why I stay away from relays, except in the control/sensing portion of a circuit.  Let your contactor do the heavy lifting.
Also, in an inductive load where  horsepower rating is a constant, voltage/current are inversely proportional; that is, if you have a 240V. motor load, and you can rewire for 480V; your motor current rating will half itself.  This basically will work for AC and DC alike.
Therefore, if you have a 1/20 horsepower motor, it will draw about .03 Amps at 12 volts.  If you halved that voltage, the current would go up by two times.

Rich C.