I have re-researched this every night for two weeks now.  I'll get the shop owner's two cents worth tomorrow.  Often times he said they (the club) do DC to DCC or DCC and Sound upgrades as a club activity. 

I can afford one DC to DCC & Sound conversion a month.  I'm still hurting from last Christmas - I was a good Santy...too good.  And I guess my elected officials in Washington DC haven't seen me fit to be bailed out.

I'd like to get the GP18 done first - I'll get prices tomorrow hopefully and do what I can.  I'll go look at Soundtraxx and Digitrax again. 


Thanks for your input, it -is- appreciated.

Rick
-

Quote from: Rangerover on April 09, 2009, 11:16:25 AM

Rick you did the right thing by going to a tech dept. I've been using Tony's Trains ( http://www.tonystrains.com/), they seem to be the most comprehensive site and Tony has devoted it to DCC users. If need be he will walk you through it on the phone,  great place!

If all you want to do is a simple 2 function lights and motor, nothing wrong with your choice especially using Bachmann EZ Command. I just ordered 2 decoders for my BLI blueline HO Alco RSD 15's just recently purchased and the decoders are Digitrax DZ 143PS with lock, for HO, N, and Z scale, the size of a dime. It already has sound but with DC, so I ordered a decoder that was recommended and it's just a simple plug in with the sound decoder. It depends on how much room you have with the shell and chassis if a particular decoder will fit. Some buy decoders and hog out the shell or the "weight" to make them fit. I'm a bit lazy for that method unless I have to.

As of now I'm unsure just how many Sound equipped DCC locos I can afford.  My first purchase was a Proto 2000 2-10-2 Steam loco.  It was DCC & Sound.  My buddy bought the RSD 15 High Hood Pennsylvania loco in DCC and Sound.  I like sound.  I'm buying for a full steam layout and full diesel layout that are one in the same.  I'll probably upgrade the SD7 to sound and DCC.  I'm finding DCC only upgrades are relatively innexpensive no matter what the decoder brand name.

Rick

Call first then order.

http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/160-18644

$15.00 + shipping



Rick

Quote from: Yampa Bob on April 09, 2009, 02:40:57 AM
Are there any particular benefits of the Lenz that was recommended by Walthers?

So far, I have only used decoders from Bachmann, Digitrax and Soundtraxx. They all seem to be very compatible with each other and with my EZ Command.

Bob the tech said it wasn't Walthers policy to reccomend any decoder mfgr over another they sell for.  He told me virtually every mfgr's name then sent me phone numbers and links to websites of each mfgr.  There were none that haven't been mentioned on the forum at one time or another.  Lenz was atop his email list.  QSI got high praise in our conversation

Here's the deal. I bought three Proto 2000 Series Diesel locos that were old stock but still new in the box from Victor - owner / operater of Erail, a train store in a suburb of Tulsa. http://www.erailhobbies.com/ I bought a SD7, GP18 and GP20 - all DC only.  He sold them to club members at prices that couldn't be ignored to clear old stock.  The brand / mfgr - Life-Like - was why I called Walthers as that is who owns Life-Like now.  He's offered to add DCC & Sound to all but I wanted to check my options first.

The tech did tell me how to install a speaker if I opted for DCC and Sound.  A hunk of the nose weight is removed with a hack saw (hobby hack saw I'm sure) and the oblong speaker placed there or in a dummy if you'd like.

Compatibility with EZ Command and Dynamis is why a asked about Lenz here.

Cowboy Bob, why aint you tried one yet?

Okie Rick

I was given a nod towards LENZ from a tech at Walthers - he also mentioned every other decoder maker.  Has anyone used a Lenz to go from DC to DCC in a loco that wasn't "DCC Ready?" (no 8 or 9-pin connector onboard)


Thanks-
Rick

That looks like a slick add-on - no muss no fuss.

http://www.tcsdcc.com/decoderpics/Athearn%20SD45T-2/athaern_sd_45t_2.htm


Rick

I reread the Dynamis User Manual today while drinking my 4:00 coffee and snacking on Ritz crackers a can of smoked oysters.  At the end of the book it said to visit the Dynamis website - http://www.dynamisdcc.com - so I did.  It's located in the UK

I found the FAQ section to be most informative.  A forum there would be nice.

What is the power output?

Answer

Dynamis is supplied with a 2.5amp power supply at 15.5 Volts stabilized to the load being taken

What is the rating of the track power?

The voltage is stabilised at 15.5v ± 5%, with 2.3 amps of power.


Note: This information is dated from March 2007 to March 2008.

Visit www.dynamisdcc.com

Rick -

"Higher" as in mentally or physically?   


I found one of these cute little switchers in SF yellow and blue at Hobby Lobby in the Clearance bin - cost $15 but it isn't DCC.


Okie Rick

db22, Jim, anyone...

If the Dynamis does have an output lower than that of the EZ, and there is no reason for me to doubt db22's measurement, will there be anything lost in the wireless transmission of instructions from the handheld controller to the receiver / powerpak and on to the track?

I can't understand the method to the madness of lowering the voltage of a wireless operations based controller.  Then again perhaps I'm not supposed to.


Rick

Quote from: BOOGS on April 04, 2009, 01:45:31 PM
I have a bachmann ez command dynamis dcc controller.....my 1st engine is a dcc bachmann gp 40 diesel........i cannot control the speed or direction of the diesel and the stop button only allows the train to run intermittently........i can control the light......
Any help??.......according to the instructions i should have been able to run engine right out of the box.......THANX BOOGS

BOOGS,

Did you ever get your question(s) answered?  If not post it again in a new message - I'll try to help you and promise to stay on subject.

Rick - another Dynamis system learning slow by jerks.

What you have is probably two locomotives 'piggy-backed' or running 'front-to-rear.' I call them A/B units also no matter the shape of the 2nd unit.  Usually the lead or powered loco will be one number less than the rear un-powered loco.  A popular pair in train sets I see alot is the Santa Fe locos #1350 (lead) and 1351 (rear).

If you're fortunate enough to have sound the electronics and speaker may be housed the  in the rear locomotive. 

And...you may have two powered locomotives.  If they're DCC you'll have to set this up as a consist.


Rick

I'll have to use caution to align the two sides for unjoining or re-joining - I am using sectional and Flex track and plan on using rail joiners each time.  Guides of some kind will have to be used.


This plug, Bob, if ordered in 4pin, could rejoin both power to the track and power to the one or two re-power places on the removable section.  And power any lights.


         


I haven't been intamate with automobiles or trailer wiring (except hankering for '73 CUDAs and '59 Cadillacs - two-door convertible El Dorados) since I cracked my neck.  I'd never thought of such a plug.  I put on a dozen or so sets of hydraulic activated brakes for horse & stock trailers but that was long ago - '68ish.

Thanks guys-
Rick

DocWhite said:
"Is it possible to use the older MRC powerpack in conjuction with the EZ DCC to control the one DC train?  OR must I also add the original power pack for that purpose?  IF SO, how would I connect the MRC to the EZ Command Controller?"



Hang on guys...am I all wet and remembering all crookedy in that you can operate and control one, and only one, DC locomotive with the EZ Command Controller if you use it addressed to the number 10 and active it pressing the 10 button?  DocWhite wouldn't need the MRC DC pak unless he wanted to power street lights, building lights etc. with it.  I think you can but you're warned to watch it closely so it won't get too hot?  Let's go fetch the pdf document...



From the E Z Command Controller User Manual - PDF:

E-Z Command allows you to control up to nine digital locomotives and will also accommodate your favorite non-digital DC locomotives (without DCC decoders). However, only ONE DC locomotive can be run at any one time on address button 10.

To operate a DC locomotive through your E-Z Command system, place a standard non-digital locomotive on the track. Next, press address button number 10 button (figure 16) to activate the DC locomotive and begin operation.

NOTE: WHEN OPERATING A DC LOCOMOTIVE ON ADDRESS "10," BE SURE TO MONITOR IT CLOSELY. SOME DC MOTORS ARE SUBJECT TO OVERHEATING AND DAMAGE WHEN OPERATING FOR LONG PERIODS OF TIME ON DCC SYSTEMS.

Using the black interconnecting power cable provided, you can also connect a Bachmann DC controller to your E-Z Command Control Center as shown in figure 17. When connected, address 10 automatically converts from its original DC (analog) assignment to DCC (digital). Thus, a tenth digital address becomes available, and the connected DC controller will allow you or a friend to control a DC locomotive in conjunction with your E-Z Command system. The Bachmann #44212 power pack, available from hobby retailers, is ideally suited to this application (figure 18).


You can oprate one DC or "analog" loco using adress 10.

Okie Rick & his chewed up stick

Here's the score.  I have a 4'x8' section and room for a 4'x5' -if- it an be taken down and stored temporarily very easy.  I'm not worried about track wiring but I do need some ideas on "quick release" track connectors.  I'm planning on a 4x8 with the 4x5 as a stubby L shape.  I want to place my turn table and switch yard on the 4x5 section and have a loop around the outside the yard / table from the 4x8.

Kwik-connects anyone?  I'm open for ideas.

Thanks-
Rick

You yay-hoos are about to change my mind about using the Woodland Scenic foam on this work in progress layout.  I figured out (and has it tried) that splitting it in the middle and bending the inside & outside curve & radius separately made things a lotb easier.  Gene is right about the track nails not setting good in the plywood...and that is where I'll have no grade to the track.  This is going to have to be re-thought...

Longer nails?  Adhesive?  hmm...I thought I was goig to sleep well tonight & not redo my layout while trying to sleep.

Well Sheep dip!

Rick