John has a good idea. there are doodlebugs (original style) available on eBay at pretty reasonable prices. If you can get one without split gears, that would be great for parts replacements ... probably a very prototypical thing to do, as no doubt, the railroads probably all did a fair amount of 'cannabalizing' to keep equipment running.

The only drawback is that both the old style Spec 44 tonner and the Spec doodlebug have a nasty tendency to eventually have axle gears split, not so much because of usage, but simply because of age.

If your doodlebug is one you don't want to part with, again, I would suggest going to all metal gears available through NWSL.

best wishes on getting it taken care of

lanny nicolet

Thanks very much, Sheldon!

lanny nicolet

Dick,

I personally appreciate your account of the more than fair way Bachmann treated you. Often we read  complaints about their service (I am not questioning that they are legitimate complaints), but too often the excellent quality of Bachmann service is overlooked or goes without mention.

I have had very similar, very positive experiences with Bachmann Service and it is why, for the most part and whenever possible, I purchase Bachmann Spectrum for my steam layout (even though I have to kit bash everything to get true ICRR models).

I will say it again ... Bachmann service, in my experience with many Spectrum locomotives is 5 star quality and their products are still very reasonably priced. Consider what HO steam modelers would have currently available (and the costs involved) if Bachmann suddenly dissappeared and left us only with BLI, PCM, Proto Life Like and IHC steam (all of which are 'decent' to 'great' products, though not always very affordable).


Hoople,

Regarding your little brother that threw the block and broke your 4-8-2 wiring. Maybe you could send him in to Bachmann for replacement 

lanny nicolet

Sheldon,

That sure looks close. do you have any suggestions where a 4 wheel pilot like that might be purchased?

Thanks!

lanny nicolet

Quote from: Virginian on June 13, 2007, 10:07:09 AM
I think lanny meant to say the use of the tuner and metal wheels reduce the rolling resistance 300% so it does roll easier, and I agree on the reducing, but I have not seen that great a change.

Thanks for that clarification, Virginian. I am not very adept at math or such  and perhaps overstated myself'. Here is what I meant. Taking any given piece of rolling stock and setting at the top of one of my long 2.7% grades, I release it and let it free roll, marking where it stops. Then I 'truck tune' with the Reboxx or Micro Mark, and add the Intermountain metal semi scale wheels.

I again place the piece of rolling stock exactly in the same starting location and release it. The distance it travels has been as great as 3 times the former distance. i.e. ... if it traveled 5 feet originally, some cars will now free roll 14-15 feet on that same test section, after doctoring. I have really been amazed at the difference.

I don't want to overstate the free rolling distance and I realize this is not a very scientific way to test. Not every car attains this distance. I apologize for overstating. I probably should have said that the 'best' is a 3 times longer rolling distance. The 'average' is maybe more like twice the distance ... but it is always significantly longer.

I don't know what that means in 'percentage of resistance' ... but what you pointed out sounds reasonable to this 'unscientific' person  .

Weight evidently has a lot to do with distance traveled. Branchline Blueprint kits that I have built have two heavy bolts for weights. Those cars, when completed, really roll well. Some of my other lighter weight cars don't do quite as well.

lanny nicolet

Try www.nwl.com.

Northwest Shortline specializes in all types of gears, etc. and they may be able to provide exactly the gearing you need.

lanny nicolet

Bo,

Thanks for some really excellent ideas. Wish I were mechanically minded to be able to figure things like that out.

RE your comment about not wanting to 'take off material, but just smooth and polish'. I have found (in my experience) that the reamer is more of a 'deburring' tool ... but I have run into a variety of mfg. trucks that actually had material in the axle holes that severely inhibited rolling quality. The reamer removes that kind of excess while keeping the angle correct (60 degree) and smoothing out the hole.

Your idea about polishing is a very good one ... properly done the way you describe it, makes it sound as though we could coax even more rolling distance from our rolling stock, especially if fitted with metal wheel/axle sets.

lanny nicolet

Hi all,

Can anyone give me a 'heads up' on where I can locate this kind of pilot truck? It was used on the only Hudson (4-6-4) the ICRR ever owned. I've attached a photo of the truck. I maybe missed something, but haven't been able to find it in the 'Bowser' super detail company parts they have available. Thanks for any help!



lanny nicolet

Hi Ernie,

Here's my personal thoughts on your question. I don't think anyone 'has' to do anything like this if they don't want to, and you are right, it is a 'hit' in the budget. I get my Intermountain wheel sets through my LHS in boxes of 100 (enough for 25 cars) at $55.00 per 100, so that can add up pretty fast.

If you are satisfied with the way your cars 'roll', and your track work is well laid without really steep curves, and you are satisfied with consists that aren't 20-30 cars long, AND you regularly clean both your track and your car wheels with alcohol, I would think you could get along fine.

For me, because my track work is not 'perfect' and because I sometimes like to see 30+ car coal drags running on my layout, I find the extra expense has been worth it. Being retired and on a fixed income, does inhibit the number of pieces of rolling stock I use, however 

lanny nicolet

To add a little to Gene's good advice:

Micro Mark 'Truck tuner' seems to me, to be a bit longer than the Reboxx 'tool'. I have one of each because, depending on the particular brand delrin/plastic truck, one of the two will work better. The will cost you around $10.00 a piece and are well worth having both of them.

Experts on the forum have a variety of 'favorite' metal wheel, axel sets so I am only suggesting what I personally like, not 'what is best'.

My layout is code #100 DC/Analog power and has a couple brutally steep (2.7 - 3.3% grades), so I need very free rolling freight and passenger cars.

Besides 'reaming' every truck before it touches my layout, I also add either 33" or 36" Intermountain metal wheel/axels that are called 'semi scale' (depending on the kind of car and its age, etc.). This combination increases the rolling distance of any given piece of rolling stock I use on my layout by 300% (i.e., the car will roll three times as far as before) as well as significantly increasing the number of cars on locomotive can haul up my brutal grades without double heading power.

I 'think' that Intermountain has three basic 'widths' of wheels. Standard which have the widest tread, 'semi-scale' which are narrower (I use these), and full scale width. Perhaps others can give clearer information on this.

I might add that there are other good metal wheel axle sets made by different companies, so you may find some that you like better than Intermountain.

lanny nicolet

And,

Add me in for a dozen of them!

lanny nicolet

Stephen,

Sure, I'm up to do four! If you ship the four to me with all the parts and couplers, I'll be glad to add hand rails and couplers and ship them back. I 'owe' you for those absolutely gorgeous photos of IC #2547 (2542?) at McComb which will be the reference I use in my Spec Mtn kit bash.

I'll send you an email off line.

lanny nicolet

Stephen,

That's a very nice caboose. Who is the mfg.?

If you have the grabirons and othe details that need to be added, Stephen, pack em' up and send it to me (I don't have any IC orange paint, but I think I could get some floquill or scalecoat in a jar for touch up purposes. I'll be glad to do the final detailing for you if you wish. Contact me off line if you are interested  (editortcs@aol.com).

lanny nicolet

Hi Ek,

Sorry about the problem and sure glad you got 95% of it fixed, but from this novice photographer's viewpoint those are still awesome phots of your modeling skills. keep sending photos, they look great.

lanny nicolet

Thanks Sheldon,

I'll check the bolts and nuts as up sugessted. That makes perfect sense.

lanny nicolet