This is one reason why I don't like or use smoke generators, especially for longer stacks.



I ran this Mogul dry with the smoke generator on for a while before I noticed it was dry.  It got warm enough to soften the plastic. There is a slight bend and about 1/3 of the way up there is a slight ballooning.

Chuck

Thanks for the information.  I don't have that engine, but I'm sure with the information you added some one will be able to help.

Chuck

PS In the future, the more information you can give us the better chance there will be for a helpful answer.

PPS The first thing I do with a new engine is disconnect the smoke unit, either cut the wires or throw the switch.  Outside it barely shows and inside the smell can get a little strong.  For me it has always seemed to be more trouble than it was worth, but that is just my opinion.

What engine are you asking about? A steam or diesel to start with?  There is no universal answer to your question.  The electronic connections in our engines have evolved over time.  Please be as specific as possible as to what engine you are asking about.  A number from the box would be best.

Is it a Spectrum or a big hauler?

Bachmann has made a number of different engines.

Chuck

Just curious.  Are you looking for voltage ratings because you are looking for a power supply?  If you are, voltage is just one factor to consider.  The number of amps the power supply can handle is equally important.  Most entry level (starter set) power supplies are rated at one amp or less.  Most people using those upgrade to a more powerful unit sooner rather than later, because lighted cars, smoke units, sound, longer trains, tight curves, grades, etc. all require more current.  The minimum amps recommended by many of us is 3.  5 or 10 amps would be better.  I have a passenger train that pulls about 7 amps (2 diesels 4 motors at 1 amp per motor and 6 lighted passenger cars at 0.5 amps per car). My power supplies are rated at 10 and 15 amps output.


Chuck

It seems that the problem may be in the tender.  Can you hook up the train to the engine and run it in both directions?  Try that and see what happens.

Chuck

Punkin

It appears that the switch in the engine is OK.  The next thing to test is the electrical pickups on the engine and tender.  I don't have that specific engine, so I can only make general suggestions.  Will the engine run without the tender coupled to it?  Some do and some don't.  Put the engine by itself on the track pointing clockwise and see how it runs, then point it counter clockwise and see how it runs.  If it still doesn't run well counter clockwise the problem is most likely in the pickups on the engine.  If it does, move on to test two.

If it runs equally well, then the next step is to couple the tender, but don't plug the engine to the tender  and repeat the process.

If everything is OK, then plug the tender into the engine and go for it again.  With any luck these tests might help locate where the problem lies.

Chuck

The forward and reverse labels on the power supply are really meaningless.  It reverses the polarity to the track, which changes direction.  It depends on the direction the train is headed and which wire goes to which rail.  All you need to know is that if you flip the switch the train will change direction.


Be sure to stop the train before you reverse direction a sudden change of direction may damage the gears.

Chuck

In your last post you said this.


"Flip the switch on the train and point the train anti-clockwise and it runs roughly and the lights flicker. Again using the power supply to run it forwards and back it's rough in both directions."

Are you flipping the switch on the train, or on the power supply?

Do not use the switch on the engine.  Set it where it works well and leave it alone.  Just turn the engine around and use the switch on the power supply for direction control.

Chuck

FYI

If anyone is interested in some new Bachmann J&S coaches (97218), I saw several at Caboose Hobbies in Denver yesterday afternoon.  They are Rio Grande and look like the ones in my pictures in an earlier post.  The price was a little under $60.

They also have three Delton passenger cars (RIO GRANDE), baggage/ postal, combine, and coach.  They are used, but look to be in good condition.  I did not handle them for a close inspection.  The set is going for about $300.

Chuck

punkin

I'm a little confused.  When you flip the direction switch (large scale/NMRA switch?) on the front of the engine and run it counterclockwise, is the engine still pointing in the same direction?

If that is the case you are not changing the wear pattern.  To do that you need to pickup the engine and cars and rotate them 180 degrees so that they are pointing in the opposite direction.  Then run counterclockwise.  Only then will you even out the wear.   The inside wheels need to be on the outside and the outside wheels need to be on the inside.  Use the polarity (direction) switch on your power supply.  All this assumed you are using track power, not battery power.  My guess is that your direction switch might be the source of the problem. 

Chuck

Punkin

Yes the truck is the wheel assembly that screws on to the car frame.  Many trucks have a tongue that sticks out from the center of the frame.  The various types of couplers are attached to that tongue.  Body mounted couplers are attached directly to the underside of the car.

FYI, As long as you just pull your cars there is very little difference in the performance of truck mounted couplers and body mounted couplers.  The problem comes when you try to push a string of cars with an engine, such as backing up through a curve, either on the mainline or onto the diverging track on a switch.  The engine pushes on the truck which easily pivots under the car and will often derail the first truck on the car directly behind the engine.  With body mounted couplers you are pushing against the whole car.

I have also had problems pushing a snow plow with truck mounted couplers derailing when entering a curve when the snow is heavy or deep.

Chuck

A couple more comments.  I use the "G" gauge size coupler rather than the gauge "1".  The "G" is larger and holds a little better on rough track.  Some cars with a mounting block for the body mounted #830 coupler.  If the block is there I will use the body mount coupler.  If the car requires surgery, any cutting, I will use the truck mounted #831.  For those, the only cutting required is the small plastic tab, button, on the end of the tongue.

Chuck

PS here is a link to a thread showing my relettered and painted Bachmann passenger cars.  While most of my cars have couplers at the body mount height, I kept this train at the truck mounted height with B'mann knuckle couplers.  The exception if the front coupler on the baggage car.  I had to raise it to couple with the engine.

I have had no problems with this train coming uncoupled.  It is on a tile floor, rather than ground.

http://forums.mylargescale.com/21-rolling-stock/48122-new-rolling-stock-patio-southwestern.html

There are several decisions that you have to make before you choose a Kadee coupler.

1,  What is your minimum curve radius (diameter)?  If your curves are less than 8' diameter (4' radius) you will be better off with truck mounted couplers.   Above that you can use either truck mounted or body mounted couplers.

2,  If you are using truck mounted couplers, do you want a straight shank coupler #835, or a stepup #831 (this will mate with any future body mounted couplers in the future. 

3,  If you have wide radius curves, I use #830, for body mounted, but there are other choices.

Chuck

Glad to have helped.  When strange things happen and I find a solution, I try to post it.
Chuck

Thanks for the reply, I'm out of suggestions.

A couple of last questions.  Does it happen at the same place on the layout, or randomly?  Is it always the same cars?



Chuck