If 'looks' aren't important, just get some clear plastic that comes in a roll from your local hardware (It doesn't have to be heavy guage). Lay it over the top and tape the bottom sides in place. Then go fishing and have fun 

lanny nicolet

There have been a lot of great suggestions on paint/printing/decal removal.

What has worked best for me on Bachmann Spec locomotives to take off lettering/numbering, etc. is finger nail polish remover. I dip a Q-tip in it and rub over the lettering or number. It is amazing how quickly everything comes off.

If you use this method, use finger nail polish remover that has acetone in it (and use a nose mask). Don't let the remover sit for long on the paint. Scrub with a Q-tip and wipe with a towel, etc. Two passes should pretty well take care of everything.

lanny nicolet

Hi,

My Spectrum Doodlebug shell went 'back on the chassis' much easier than it came off. I don't remember having to use the toothpicks at all to get it back on. Just carefully press fit until the existing plastic tabs snap into place.

This is my 'suggestion' only. Others on the forum will have, perhaps, a better way to get it back together.

If you have the shell off the chassis, the biggest part of your 'removal' problem is over.

lanny nicolet

Ooooops!

Thanks Gene. I didn't know that. I have lived a very shelted "HO" life 

So if Rio is using that line of HO equipment, then an AC transformer will work fine? Thanks for 'cluing me in' Gene.

lanny nicolet

Hi Matt,

I have just finished the boiler of a Spectrum 2-8-0 with major kit bashing work. I haven't done a 4-6-0, though that is on the list for later one, since the ICRR did use that wheel arrangement.

The following may or may not be applicable to your Spectrum 4-6-0, but this is what I have found in heavy kit bashing of 2 Spectrum 2-8-0s regarding your questions:

1)Most of the piping details are 'press fit' and do come loose with a 'judicious' careful amount of prying. However, these are 'built' in China and sometimes, glue is used where a press fit is all that is needed. Keep a good sharp Xacto knife handy. I've never found any screws on the 2-8-0 domes holding them in place. That may be different with the 4-6-0.

2) on the 2-8-0, in order to get the running boards free from the boiler, you must pretty much remove all the 'snap/glued on' piping. You must also remove a screw from the chassis. This will allow the boiler to slide forward and off the mechanism (2-8-0).

3) The running boards on the 2-8-0 are 'supposed' to be a snap fit, however, usually you will find that there is some glue holding them. The running boards do come completely loose as a separate part of the boiler, so once removed, you basically have only the boiler to work with.

4) There is a round clear plastic tube inserted inside the boiler with a thin, solid plastic tube also of clear plastic but painted black outside. When inserted into the boiler front, this small tube fits in the existing headlight.

I use Precision Scale Pyle headlights with a visor (#31299) and drill out the back so the tube will fit through that. If you have the time and tools, Cal Scale brass Pyle headlights with a visor will also work, but you have to drill metal instead of plastic.

Your problem may lie in 'where' the head light is positioned. If it comes on top of the boiler and you want to move it to the boiler center, you'll have to do some kit bashing to direct the light to that position.

5) Bell and whistle on the 2-8-0 are metal, not plastic. They can easily be broken when you are removing them (I have done this both times with the whistle). I don't have any good advice on how to get the metal parts 'out', but they do come out because it looks like they are press fit.

6) I haven't done the tender as yet, so can't make any suggestions. I think what Brad shared sounds like very good advice.

Here's a couple photos of a current Spectrum 2-8-0 that I am kit bashing into a true ICRR for another model railroader. This is 'early stage' kit bashing work ... just the beginning!





best wishes,

lanny nicolet

Hope this helps, Rio.

AC = 'Alternating current'. Never used to power HO motive power. Will ruin HO engines if you run them trying to use 'AC' power.

DC = 'Direct Current'. Always used for supplying power to tracks in HO guage (as well as some other guages such as 'N' guage)

DCC = 'Digital Command Control'. The newest way to 'operate' trains' in HO and other scales. Needs special power and control equipment to run DCC locomotives. DCC locomotives must have a 'decoder' card properly installed before they will operate using a 'DCC' system.

DC/Analog = Old style method of operating HO trains (other scales as well). This system needs a 'DC' power supply. Locomotives running with DC/Analog power do not need 'decoder' cards to operate. The are ready to use without any alteration on a properly wired layout.

MRC = A company that is well known and trusted for producing DC/Analog power supply controllers. They also produce DCC power and controllers, as does Bachmann and many other.

I am not a DCC 'expert'. I know very little about how DCC works. But there are many really great DCC experts on this forum.

If you are totally new to model railroading, from my view point, Rio, I would recommend that you use 'DC/Analog' power on your first layout. However, there are many here who would disagree with me on this.

Please listen carefully to ALL the advice you are given. You will get good advice whether it is for DC operations or DCC operations.

Remember, Rio!!!! AC power is 'NO' for trying to operate HO guage equipment.

best wishes,

lanny nicolet

Hi Roger,

'Yup', you're absolutely right! That is not a 'USRA' Pacific and that's what makes it so appealing to me!

All kidding aside, I honestly do find it very strange that with the many mfg that create high quality plastic today, no one seems to have picked up on the need/desire/want for a Harriaman style steam locomotive, both in 2-8-2 and 4-6-2 series, perhaps in others as well.

The reality is that there are quite a few RR that at one time or another, used this style of motive power (besides the ICRR  . To me, it is rather strange that no mfg. to date has made a really good (Spectrum quality) Harriman locomotive (with the exception, I should say, of Spectrum's Consolidation - and someone recently told me that the P2K 2-10-2 recently out is close to the lines of at least the early versions of an ICRR 2-10-2. I think Orsonroy made some ICRR related suggestions to them when that was in the works).

I'm far from a 'model historian' so I may certainly be overlooking 'vintage' models that are Harriman style. I think Bowser has a Pacific (NYC) that may be simialr to a Harriman style ... but I don't enjoy working with cast metal. Plastic is so much easier to super detail! To me, metal is a pain, to work with.

lanny nicolet

Along with NWSL (good idea!) and 'Flea markets/local swap meets' (also a good possibility) try this web site on eBay http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQsassZk4Q5fpacific.

This seller specializes in all sorts of parts 'cannabalized' from HO locomitves, etc. I have used him several times to buy Mantua Delta trucks for my ICRR 4-8-2 Mountains. I have found this seller to be totally honest and willing to answer any question you have.

I would suggest contacting him with the specific part/parts you need. If he doesn't have them, he may be able to direct you to someone who does.

lanny nicolet

It seems like a good Pacific (Spectrum grade  ) would be a pretty good seller. I sure like the general lines of your photo as a suggestion 

Maybe something new will pop up on the radar in time for Christmas, since some on the forum are already counting down the days and making out their lists.

lanny nicolet

Hi Nevin,

I think a lot of us are 'waiting' with 'bated breath' when Mr. Bach Man gets the 'OK' to let us know if anything is coming down the 'Spectrum Steam Pike'.

Generally, I have understood from others' posts that Mr. Bach Man cannot comment on future Bachmann plans. Unless someone is 'really in the know' or has heard 'rumors' that have some 'fact' to them, I don't know if anyone on the forum has a 'handle' on what steam Bachmann is planning, next.

Some of us (read 'me'  ) have come pretty close to driving Mr. Bach Man 'crazy' with 'our' (read 'my') continual requests for Bachmann to mfg a 'specific' kind/style/series of Spectrum Steam locomotives.

Sorry, Mr. Bach Man, I know I promised I wouldn't say anything more, but since Gene is keeping count, I suppose this post can be added to my 400-500 kazillioneth request for that 'certain type of steam'   

lanny nicolet

Sheldon,

Was that action regarding 'all aboard' possibly being offensive to some groups brought by the 'Commercial Airline Pilots's Association' 

lanny nicolet

docmanago

I did not find it easy to separate the body of the Spectrum doodlebug from its chassis. But it can be done if you work patiently and carefully.

1) remove the couplers and any screws in the chassis that are holding the chassis to the body.

2) using an eXacto knife or some very thin edge metal tool, pry the shell away from the body in one small place.

3) insert a wooden (flat style) toothpick in that opening.

4) repeat as many times as necessary all around the body keeping a sharp eye out for plastic tabs that also need to be loosened to release the body.

5) eventually, the body should easily and freely come away from the chassis, allowing you better access to the motor.

hope this helps.

lanny nicolet

Quote from: Atlantic Central on June 16, 2007, 03:17:06 PM
Breaking News,

The 9th Circuit has ruled in Nancy's favor, but their ruling is not retroactive. All future Fireman Freds will be provided with a companion Fireperson Nancy with softer, gentler shoveling and Conductor Bob will also have a counterpart, Conductor Sue, who will replace "All aboard" with " Could we all please get on the train now".

ROFLOL   

Sheldon, I do admire your 'political correctness'!

lanny nicolet

Quote from: Atlantic Central on June 14, 2007, 10:57:52 AM
Fireperson Nancy has filed suit in Federal Court over the violation of her 14th Amendment rights and put all future Fireman Fred operations on hold.

LOL!    That is just too good, Sheldon!

Seriously, though I am doing an almost complete switch to all steam and will soon put moe some cherished diesels up for sale on eBay, there are two locomotives that I probably will not part with. One is a BLI Heavy Mike ... it stays because, even though I run DC/Analog, the steam sounds and the whistle remind me so much of what I heard almost every day as a kid, when my dad worked for the ICRR in Fort Dodge, Iowa.

The other is a BLI SD-40. It really has no place even being on my 'roster' or in modeling era. But again, its sound is what keeps it sitting, almost alone now, on my collector shelf.

The rest of the steam part of my operating roster is down to pretty much Spec and IHC. I suppose, if I had the finances, I would be looking for a lot more sound because I do like to hear 'steam' since that was part of my life as a little kid. But, I also like to hear the quiet 'clickety-clack' of my rolling stock's metal wheels as they go over turnouts and rail joints.

In any case, I'm having fun 

lanny nicolet

Gene,

Off the subject of trains, but in reference to your comment about 'weight can be good', not only the P-40s were dangerous to Japanese Zeros (a lighter, more manuverable fighter), but in the European theatre, the P-47s were also at an advantage if the pilot was 'on the ball'. Once the P-47 went into a dive, the ME 110 and FW 190s could not keep up with them, though again both being more manuverable and perhaps even faster?. Thus if the altitude was great enough, I have understood P-47 pilots could 'dive' out of trouble in a dogfight.

But, both the P-40 and the P-47 (as well as other US aircraft) were harder to knock down bacause of protective armor for the pilot, etc. I think the P-47 was kind of like a 'flying tank' wasn't it?

lanny