Quote from: John B on February 28, 2008, 04:52:50 PM

Quote from: Tony Walsham on February 28, 2008, 04:35:55 PM
Greg.

Does the QSI read the + chuff signal of the K-27 without any additional parts or modifications to the loco?

According to QSI, if the cuff needs adjustment it is done with their software.
http://www.qsisolutions.com/products/techinfo/qaristo/q2_chuff_interv_calib.html

Hi John B
The page you listed only gives details of how you can calibrate the automatic chuff.  It does not tell you how to interface with the + chuff provided by the Bachmann electronics.
The correct page for installing a QSI into the K-27 is http://www.qsisolutions.com/products/techinfo/qaristo/q2_aris_k27_install.html
Part of that page says:
"The Quantum Aristo decoder has precise automatic chuff synchronization that is easily configured to provide accurate chuff synchronization, even at low speed, with the K27. If you choose to use the Auto Chuff option simply plug in the decoder and start operating. This is highly recommended as it is very accurate and does not have all the installation and maintenance problems associated with the a mechanical/optical chuff. "
Now that looks to me like the QSI cannot read the + chuff signal without some extra components being added to the Bachmann socket pcb.
I guess that means to date, the only truly Plug'n'Play control system is the soon to be released RCS/EVO PnP-3.

Greg.

Does the QSI read the + chuff signal of the K-27 without any additional parts or modifications to the loco?

Quote from: rslater on February 24, 2008, 12:17:02 PM
Tony,

Did you have any problems with the tender truck swing due to the position of the BIK-U3 and the Phoenix volume switch on the tender floor?

Thanks
Richard

Hello Richard.

BIK-U3.  Yes, originally I did.  I had mounted it on the RH side with the switch oriented so that it went front and back.  That fouled the truck at maximum swing.
I then remounted the switch on the LH side with a sideways movement of the toggle.  The toggle does not now foul the truck.
It is important that the rear of the battery packs do not extend further back than the stanchions.  This permits the switch to be mounted as far forward as possible.

Phoenix volume control.  That does not foul the rear of the truck, but only just.
Next time I will mount it about 2-3mm closer to the rear of the frame to make sure it is easier to operate.

Quote from: Jon D. Miller on February 22, 2008, 08:09:23 PM
SNIP
To the left of the picture is the cooling fan. It is mounted so it will move air to cool the motor.  Not sure just how much good that will do since the motor is not finned nor does it have any openings in the case.  But what the heck, it's there and like chicken soup, it can't hurt.

JD

As the fan blows air down it also sucks the air away from the smoke unit and prevents the smoke from rising out of the smoke unit.
If you reverse the fan it sucks cool air up and forces copious amounts of smoke out of the stack.
If you decide to turn the fan around, DO NOT replace the two long screws.  They will be too long.  Replace them with two shorter screws.

I have now added Phoenix sound to the K-27 PnP battery R/C install above.

Here is how I have done the basic battery R/C installation using the new RCS PnP-3, but no sounds.

As the K-27 operates at a very realistic top speed on about 14 volts, I chose to use 2 x 2,400 mah 7.2 volt SubC NiCd packs wired in series to give 14.4 volts.

First of all I mounted a 3" 1 watt speaker in the tender even though I will not be installing sound just yet.

Next I glued the two battery packs to the uprights and part of the speaker frame.  They lean inwards slightly but that is not a problem.
The two battery packs are put in series with an RCS # Y-CABLE set.
Sorry about the picture quality.  I still can't master this Cannon camera.

The next K-27 I do will have an oval speaker.  That way I can mount the batteries on the tender floor.
I mounted the RCS TX-8 receiver up under the rear of the tender shell.
The BIK-U3 charge jack was mounted in the water hatch.  This required trimming out a small amount of the support web to clear the jack.

I tacked the Azarra antenna into place with dabs of silicone glue along the inside top edge of the tender shell.  Even though the suplied RCS antenna gives adequate range when strung out straight I always use an Azarr in tightish situations.

The BIK-U3 switch pcb was mounted right behind the battery packs.  The switch is readily accessible by reaching under the tender.  It is easy to flip the switch ON - OFF with one finger.
This pic also shows how neat the basic wiring can be.  There will be plenty of room for the Phoenix P5 + P5T sound system I will be adding at a later date.  The PnP-3 simply plugs into the socket in place of the supplied dummy pcb.


The 3 x wire Red/Black/White wires are the cabling for the charge jack mounted in the water hatch.

The installation from the front.

The installation from the rear.

The plug in PnP-3 shown is a prototype.  It has a heatsink on the H bridge motor driver for maximum current capability.
Production PnP-3's will be available early March.  As well as this RCS version there will also be an EVO PnP-3 for those that use regular low cost 2 stick Digital Proportional R/C.

The installation provides a fused battery supply and the PnP-3 has inbuilt motor "noise" suppression.
Performance is flawless.
I have not had it outside to check range but I would expect at least 100'.
I will run such a test in the next few days and report back.

Here is how I did the Phoenix P5 + P5T sound system.
There are just 3 x solder joints.
Two wires for the speaker and one wire from the PnP-3 chuff connection to the P5.
Ther are screw termianls on the BIK-U3.  All other wiring connections are plug and socket.
Nice and simple.

The # Plus-3 provides an extra 3 functions with the P5 + P5T.

Most of the wiring is excess with the Phoenix sound.  Their plug and socket leads cannot be shortened.


The stock Bachmann onboard electronics works for me.

To date I believe this is the only truly PnP installation with sound anyone has achieved. 
i.e. Absolutely no modifications or additions to the Bachmann electronics.

The chuff works just like I expected it to.  The chuff beats seem to be pretty even to me.

There have been just four hidden holes drilled in the bodywork.
Two in the water hatch for the battery charge jack and the Phoenix programming jack.
Two in the floor for the ON - OFF switch and Volume control.

I will get the outdoor testing done as soon as I can.

The next loco I do will show how to install Sierra sound and then how to install Dallee sound.

I have now had the chance to run the K-27 on a set of four Bachmann rollers.

I followed the instructions from T-Rex on how to make sure the eccentrics on axle #3 were correct.  I had to move the LH side one.

There is a barely perceptible "rocking" at the rear.  Cab movement would be about 1/16th" up and down.
No movement at the front at all.
#'s 1, 2 & 4 axle counterweights are all loose.

I now have the prototype pcb to hand for the soon to be released RCS PnP-3 R/C controller.
This proto was assembled last night and bench tested successfully.

Today a K-27 arrived from my good customer Bill Wellington to get the RCS treatment.  Plus plug in Phoenix P5 sound.

The whole point of this installation is to achieve a reliable smooth running battery R/C K-27 without making any changes to the onboard electronics as supplied.
Whether that can be achieved remains to be seen, but I am hopeful.

I have made a start and will document the installation as I proceed.
To date I have mounted the speaker, removed the tender weights and mounted the two 7.2 volt SubC NiCd packs I am going to use to power the loco.
Once the silicone adhesive has set up I will take the first pics and publish them here.

BTW.
I bench tested the K-27 on a short test track I have here.  It runs superbly. Absolutely no sign of the up and down bouncing displayed by the K-27 in the U tube video currently being used as a promotion for a "pay to be a member" LS forum.

As the Bachmann says the Connie was based on a Baldwin catalogue loco. However, it is my understanding that this is the prototype for the Connie.

Those pics were taken at Edaville in about 1985.
The loco subsequently went to Alder Gulch where it was rebuilt and remains in service.

As a supporter of the socket proposal I was delighted to read all about how the Bachmann K-27 socket was going to revolutionise PnP capability at this thread from the socket designer Mr Stanley Ames:  http://archive.mylargescale.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=48304
I would urge anyone remotely interested in DCC to read through the thread.
Now it seems that unfortunately the dreams of DCC fans are not going to be so easily realised.

Bud,
Personally I agree with you.
New counterweights would be the better long term solution. 
However they will take some time to produce.

For the short term the shim kits will solve this particular problem for Bachmann.

Next on the list should be a solution to the chuff timer that does not work with most popular aftermarket sound systems running on regular DC.  A solution that does not require the consumer to purchase electronic parts and mount them themselves.

I would then expect Bachmann to announce that the next production run will incorporate all the fixes found to be necessary to turn what is an excellent model into a superb one.

Peter,
Sure there have been hundreds sold, if not a thousand plus.

Would you care to define what a "handful with the problem" is?

No doubt Bachmann will issue a "procedure" to correct the problem.

To be fair to Mr Ames.

Yes, in front of at least 6 witnesses he did say categorically that the counterweight problem did not exist.
It was then pointed out to him politely that there was irrefutable proof that it did exist.
Two minutes later in front of the same witnesses he stated he had known about the problem all along.

Make what you will of all that.

Quote from: CustomRCmodels on January 20, 2008, 04:40:41 PM
thanks for the quick reply !
do they have inputs for sync-sound ?

What do you mean "sync sound"?

Quote from: CustomRCmodels on January 20, 2008, 03:01:05 PM
does anybody has any experience with Dallee sound boards ?
has anybody used them for there G-scale loco's ?
how do they sound ?
are they worth the money ?

I have been using them for many years.
Mainly in Large Scale locos.  Even "G" scale locos occasionally.
The diesels are quite good.  The steam not bad.
Definitely.