I am not sure if Micro Engineering produces bridge ties, but Central Valley does.  These  assemblies are good, easy to work with, and look really nice.  Guard timbers were usually placed alongside the rails on the outside, guard rails (usually of a lighter yardweight) placed in between the rails.  This assembly will look really good with code 83 rail-or, if you can find it, code 75.   Oh Jim Brock; they do make it!

Rich C.

Hey Sid;
You going to do anything fancy to it?

Rich C.

Some time ago, I had purchased a Korber roundhouse kit.   I had done my usual disfiguring to it; and to my satisfaction, it looks half-way decent.
A photograph of the roundhouse and turntable at the Boston and Maine's BET had inspired me.
The one salient factor is the equation of turntable/roundhouse distance.  I have found that, in my case, the outer tracks had to be curved accordingly in order to compensate for that one issue. 
I used a Walthers turntable.  I like it.  I had modified the bridge a little; other than that, it still sits sans motor.  I would like to rig up an indexing system similar to what a past acquaintence had.  He used the mechanism for a bombsight!  I asked no questions, he offered no info...  At any rate, I a trying for a 'smooth-as-silk' operation.  Any takers?

Rich C.

That worked out for you; I am glad.  Good operational wheels are critical to your ultimate satisfation.
Good luck.

Rich c.

As an SOP, I do-graphite.  As they say; an ounce of prevention...

Rich C.

Firstly, I will recommend going to "Greenway Products" (greenway.com), and go to their electronics section.  They have a pretty good selection of horns, toots, and whistles to tickle your fancy, as well as other sound cards.
WHat I do is set up a speaker (a simple 8-Ohm) in an enclosure; now, as an example, I have a speaker at-say-a tunnel portal.  to control what happens, I have a selector switch going to several sound card, each emulating a different steam type whistle (all steam layout), so I have some variety, to say the least, when a train is coming out of the tunnel.  Now, I also have a momentary switch in series with these componets, so as to whistle when I need to.

An other eample is the service facility; Again, several sound cards are employed here; coal dropping into a tender, wattewr sloshing into the tender, a drifting (idling) locomotive, the sound of a conveyor bring up anddropping into the coal tower, coal, and on and on...

This is a partof this hobby that, for some reason, is just recently being gotten into as it has.  Not sure whay that is, but it sure makes good stuff better.  Now, all we need is to satisfy the olfactory aspects without offending milady's schnozz...

Rich C.

I believe this stuff has an oil base anyway, so "re-applying" a compatible lubricant will probably take cafre of things.  That said, just put it on the track, and apply a little power to it.  Just take your time until you are confident the problem has been taken care of.

Rich C. 

Trainman;
The inside track is what runs just about any business, and what runs the inside track is dinero.

All in all, I consider Bachmann about the finest equipment-for the money-available to the hobbyist; it is inexpensive, straightforward, and easy to up-grade, add appliances to, etc.  Of course, we, approach this hobby from different  corners, but the supplier is going largely on sales and the profit to back them up.  IN my business as an electrician, I evolved into a service type facility.  I enjoy troubleshooting, repairing and modification of equipment, and like the aspect of being mobile daily.  It happens that I make a comfortable living at it.  Most businesses, to a greater or lesser extant, operate by the same set of mechanics.
I might be inclined to debate Yardmaster on a couple of aspects; if there wasn't a steady demand for parts, the dept. might not function on the same way; hence the painted "unlettered" or "undec" parts like tenders.  All in all, I am satisfied with Bachmann.

Rich C.

One thing I would like to add here is for you to read up a little on soldering onto and around delicate electronics.   Excessive heat, static discharge, etc, arew all villians of this kind of work.  I suggest becoming familiar with the care and feeding of these pups.  Also, there are a variety of heat sinks on the market; I at least use a pair of Kelly clamps-the kind found in a medical environ; if not, then a heavy-duty contraption like the one I concocted.  These have the ability to keep heat away from sensitive components while enabling you to maintain heat on the conductors being soldered.

Rich C.

Excuse it, Jim; 95% alcohol.  Makes one heck of a thump when it hits bottom, I'll tell you!   

Rich C.

Johnny;
Wire is generally marked with pertinent data every 24 inches.  Use a magnifier and look carefully.   I almost guarantee that, if someone is using it in product, that it is available to consumers.  To wit:  If you have enough money, everything is for sale.

Rich C. 

Addendum:   
It is 95 proof....
works well on cherries...

Rich C.

Well said! I still to the life of me don't understand why this question was asked...

Quote

I asked the question for two reasons:  Firstly; I have a great respect for Jeffery's knowledge of this subject-and secondly; I asked it because I can.

Rich C.

Jim; run down to the package store and buy a bottle of Graves Grain Alcohol.  I use it for cherries, but I am sure it would do a slam-bang job on paint...

Rich C.

You know; you guys have to think outside of the box at times.  Use an N-scale decoder/speaker.  They run at about a halfof an amp, so just be caeful with them.
Rich C.