Check out Standard Hobby Supply (http://www.standardhobby.com).
They were selling Con Cor GS-4's for $109.97. I just looked to see if they still had them and found they reduced them to $99.97. Just UP and PRR, though... They are they only listing for Con Cor that Standard Hobby has, so I'm assuming they are dumping remainin stock...

Franz T

The GP50 is a Standard line product which is aimed primarily at the toy train/train set market. (Sort of like the Con Cor Galloping Goose in PRR markings) Believe it or not, there are people out there who just want an engine in a particular roadname and although they probably know what a rivet looks like they don't care enough to count them.
Remember, anal retentiveness is an aquired habit (for most people.... )

Franz T

Don't know about Bachmann catalogs, but they were in the Walthers book.
Can't put my hands on them right this minute, but im the 1997 one, Spectrum was listed seperately, at the end of the locomotive section, not under Bachmann. (IIRC, there was  nothing in the Walthers catalog in 1997 to even indicate that Spectrum had any connection to Bachmann)..

The first series of Spectrum Dash8's appeared in 1996.
I have 5 of them and although they are generally decent engines, quality control at that time was a bit spotty, to be polite about it.
More than likely, B'mann will no longer have parts for the older models; however they generally replace a loco sent in under warranty with the current production model. IIRC the handling charge or a N-scale diesel is $10. Contact them for exact details.
To learn more than you ever wanted to know about N-scale locomotives, try this link: http://www.visi.com/~spookshow/locos.html
HTH

Franz T.

In answer to question 1, you don't need to buy the whole truck, you can buy Micro-Trains couplers themselves and replace them on the trucks;, IIRC the most common B'mann conversion is the 1131. Check on MT website (http://www.micro-trains.com), they have conversion charts for just about everything out there. You can also cut the coupler and the coupler pocket off the B'mann truck, re-use the truck and install body mount 1015 couplers. Body mounting your couplers will result in fewer derailments, especially when backing. And no, the MTL or Atlas trucks will not fit B,mann cars easily, you will have to ream out the holes for the mounting pin as the ones on B'mann cars are bigger.
Question 2, yes, you can use the B'mann dummy couplers to couple to MTL or Accumate (Atlas uses Accumates on their cars) but you will NOT be able to use the magnetic uncoupling feature and the cars may not couple as easily or reliably as MTL or Accumates normally do

HTH,
Franz T

Mine sits at the right height without shimming...

Bob!

I took the easy way out: I ACC'd some 1015's in the couple pocket. For some perverted reason, the screw hole from the factory coupler is so far back that a) the trip pin interferes with the pilot and b) the back of the draft gear box interferes with the front of the truck. You could probably drill and tap a new hole just a little closer to the front but I was not ambitious enough to try that. A few drops of good old crazy glue was all it took. Oddly enough, with the SD45, they are a straight drop in installation...  Go figure..

Franz T

To keep bricks and other objects thrown from overpasses out of the cab....

All twin-coil type switch motors run on AC. Keep in mind, however, that most train-set power packs lack the output to power both a locomotive and a switch at the same time. If you connect your switch macines to the AC terminals you will notice that the locomotive slows down as you throw a switch.
If you are planning a layout of any size, there are two solutions: Buy a seperate powerpack for accessories (or rather, buy a quality powerpack such as a MRC for the trains and use the trainset powerpack for accessories); or you can do what I did and get a 16 Volt AC dorr chime transformer from the Lowes of your choice and use that to power the accessories This requires basic electrical skills. A transformer should run you about 10 bucks, figure $1 for a handybox and cover, 50cents for a romex connector, about 4-5 bucks for a pigtail (2 wire will do) and you are looking at less than 20bucks.  a decent MRC powerpack should run you around 50.

Franz T

Back then it was common practice for manufactures to put whatever livery they thought would sell on whatever model they had handy, regardless of whether the road in question actually owned any of that particuler engine model. (although there are probably no Amtrak Big Boys out there ). Road numbers were even less reliable. Prototype research by manufacturer is a fairly recent innovation. That being said, the term "dropped nose diesel" would lead me to suspect it being a RSD15, made by Mehano. These were a varied batch, I actually had one that ran reasonably well (for 1970's standards)
Check out the RSD15 at the link James provided to see if it looks familiar

Franz T

PS: Mehano also made a C420, so try that one too..

I don't think that anyone still makes brass track Atlas certainly makes none in N-scale. They used to make it years ago in HorriblyOversized scale, perhaps they still do?  The stuff they made was code 100, IIRC, I have been out of HO for over 25 years.  So it would NOT be compatible. Not that anyone would want to try it..
Advantages to brass track: you get to spend lots and lots and lots of time cleaning it. It oxidizes very quickly. If you are the kind of person who gets off on running your trains 20% of the time and cleaning your track the other 80%, brass is definitely the way to go. You can also melt brass track down and use it to cast sculptures after you get tired of putting up with it. Other than that, there are no advantages to using it.

HTH

Franz T

The answer to both questions is yes. Only 2 axles of each engine are geared, so the siderods are attached to all three axles to power the idler. And you would have to machine a groove for the tire. All in all, more work than I would want to to.

Franz T

I picked up an undec. version from Micro Mark about 2 months ago for $107; I believe they still have them. You are right, they are not very good pullers, although they run very smoothly.

Franz T

I have been told it will actually negotiate a 9.75" radius, but I imagine it won't look too good doing it. I have a section with an 11" radius and it has no problems on that branch; but again, it does look very strange on that tight a curve.

Franz T

To be honest, all plastics structures do need to be painted. It makes them look much more realistic and less toy-like. I have found that Model Power structures are an excellent value. They are made by various european manufacturers, mostly Pola and Heljan. (Heljan, I believe, also makes the models for Walthers' Cornerstone Models series) Cornerstone, I have found, makes the best molded colors, but I still painted the ones I built, and the difference in appearance is dramatic. Unfortunately, "Cornerstone Series" and "inexpensive" should never be used in the same sentence.
DPM makes great models; the price is right, the detail is superb and they are easy to build. However, they do require painting as they are molded in tan plastic with all detail (window frames, sills and lintels) molded on.

HTH,

Franz T