Quote from: Inder on October 02, 2007, 11:24:38 PM
Thanks fieromike,

I followed your instructions and got it open safely.

I didn't realize that I was that helpful...
While you have the tender open, if you plan to use body mount M-T couplers, it would be a good idea to cement a styrene pad inside the body, above the coupler location.  That part of the floor doesn't have much meat for screw threads, and can use all the help it can get.

Mike

Quote from: charlii on October 02, 2007, 06:30:51 PM
I am considering removing the headlight from a N gauge Spectrum 2-8-0, which is mounted on center of smoke box, and replacing it with a Pennsylvania Railroad light to be mounted at top of smoke box front.
Anyone's experience with such modification, would be appreciated.

The headlight led on the 2-8-0 is located inside the boiler and piped into the headlight housing via the small round piece between the headlight and the front of the smokebox.  You might be able to use a smd led and hook the wires  to the original led solder pads.  Its tight in there!

Mike

Quote from: SteamGene on October 02, 2007, 08:55:05 AM
I'm using Atlas code 100 #6 turnouts.  I've bent the wire at the end into an "L<" but it keeps slidding out.  I'll check into using boat/airplane pushrods and attachments.  I know about using some form of tube to keep the wire straight.  There should be some MR article on this, somewhere.
Gene

Using just piano wire limits you a bit, but I would suggest looking into using a "Z" bend at the turnout end.  It won't slip out of the throwbar.  If you don't know what that is, the guy in the R/C section can help you.  They also make a "Z" bending tool that makes neat and consistent bends; ~$10 when I bought mine.
If you use the airplane pushrods, you have a bunch of clevises, etc available to play with.  This is probably the stuff that you've been seeing pictures of.  It comes in several different diameters and can be easily cut to length with a sharp blade.

Mike

Quote from: r.cprmier on October 01, 2007, 06:27:27 PM
Gene;
I have seen several of these set-ups, and they work great.  They use piano wire yes-but the wire is run in a tube or conduit if you will, of some kind of nylon, poly, etc about a comfortable diameter for the wire to move back and fro.  This conduit is secured at intervals by straps to prevent excessive shifting of the tube, which would defeat the purpose of the assembly.
what I have seen used for a switch is simple slide switches, the configuration is whatever you need, but probably go with a DPDT; cheaper, and it will still work.

I'd like to hear other variations on the same theme.

RIch

The conduit is r/c aircraft (and boat) pushrods, meant to  connect  the servos to the rudder, throttle, etc.  you screw  a piece of threaded rod into each end , then there are all sorts of fittings that you can use to hook the rods to levers, bellcranks, etc.  IIRC, they are available up to 48" long, but I don't see why you couldn't hook two together for longer runs.

Mike

Quote from: Inder on October 01, 2007, 02:27:26 PM
I don't know how to do open it without damaging it.
I found a website where it shows it's been done but they don't explain how to pry it open without damaging it.

On the bottom of the tender if you turn it over you can see a little plastic nipple possible what holds the two halfs together I'm thinking of drilling through that and see what happens.

Any suggestions with that? 

Leave the bottom alone.  That "nipple" you see is a remanant of the casting sprue.  On the top, if you gently pry the sides of the coal bunker outward, you'll see that the whole top of the tender is an insert that fits into the sides and bottom.  After that point, you're on your own.

Mike

Quote from: Inder on October 01, 2007, 02:13:01 AM
Hello there,

I am about to buy my DCC system pretty soon here.  Now I know that the Consolidation is DCC ready and there is space in the boiler to for the decoder but you have to compromise and remove a weight.  I don't like this idea because it will affect the phenomenal pulling performance of the Consolidation.

So I was thinking that there is plenty of space in the tender for a sound decoder.  I will have to reroute the wires but I am willing to do this.

Has anyone done this?  Which sound decoder do you guys recommend?

Thank you

There may be room for a sound decoder in the tender IF you can get it open without damaging it.
You will lose weight by removing the drop-in weight in the boiler, but not enough to get frantic about.  The drop-in weight weighs 3.1grams with the plastic tray, and a DZ123 decoder weighs 1.9grams for a net loss of 1.2grams.  IOW, not much difference.

Mike
BTW, a U.S. penny also weighs 3.1grams.

Quote from: MBOOTS1 on September 26, 2007, 05:15:50 PM
Hello
Has anyone installed a decoder in the Bachmann sd45 n scale loco which i believe is dcc ready? Bachmann do not provide any wiring instructions with the loco on how this is done although looking at the light circuit board n860x-p02b i think you may wire in via the contacts under the removable clips on the side of the board can anyone tell me which colour leads go to which contact if I'm right in thinking this.

regards
Mboots1

Look closely at the circuit board where the clips are located.  I believe the holes are marked for decoder installation.  I've seen pictures to this fact, but can't seem to locate them today.

Mike

Quote from: momo on September 25, 2007, 08:27:05 PM


You know how most freight trains have their engines in opposite directions? Well how would you do that in DCC.I want to buy a Bachmann
DCC system but I just noticed something,If you program 3 engines to the same address,and there all facing different directictions,they will all pull on each other.I don't want to put them all in the same direction,because it will look unrealistic.Unless there is some twist to DCC that I don't know,than I think it is impossible.If there is a twist let me know.

From looking at the Bachmann DCC manual, you can do consisting if you are determined enough, but it seems to involve reprogramming the engine decoders.  NCE asks you the direction of each loco as you build the consist, and the system remembers it without having to jump through hoops.  I'm sure that the other major DCC systems do something similar.

Mike

Quote from: Franz T on September 23, 2007, 08:37:11 PM


Replacing the 2-8-0's tender trucks with M-Ts isn't a good idea.  The M-T trucks have no provision for electrical pickup.

Mike

Nobody advocated replacing the 2-8-0's tender trucks. The #2004 is a coupler, not a truck. (The Spectrum 2-8-0 uses a body mount coupler on the tender). Trucks on cars don't need any pickup unless they are on lighted passenger cars...
[/quote]

Mea culpa.  I missed the "cars" part of your post.  I guess its time for my meds...

Mike

Quote from: Edward on September 22, 2007, 03:01:25 PM
My layout is over 32 years old, going bacl to the days of Tyco with hook and horn couplers and the change over to the new fangled ones has been a pet pive of mine for years.  Altas made a 'dead end uncoupler' track that worked fro yrears, now they say they stopped making it.

I am not in favor of cars with two types of couplers, which means that particular car has to stay with that particular locomotive . .. what a way to run a railroad.

Maybe, in my life time, some one will go back to hook and horn couplers witha workable uncoulper track.

Yup, and then they will announce the return of brass track.

No thanks,
Mike

Quote from: Franz T on September 23, 2007, 01:42:50 PM
The Spectrum 2-8-0 takes a Micro-Trains #2004, you will have to snap off the old coupler box and drill/tap a hole to mount the new coupler. The whole thing takes less than 10 minutes. Easiest way to convert cars is to purchase MT trucks with couplers attached and simply replace the existing trucks. With Bachmann you will need to ream out the hole in the truck so it fits eaily over the mounting post on the car and then simply replace the screws holding the trucks in place. Bachmann knuckle couplers-also called dummy couplers- will work (after a fashion) with MT couplers but will not allow magnetic uncoupling. I make it a rule to install Micro-Trains on all my rolling stock..

Replacing the 2-8-0's tender trucks with M-Ts isn't a good idea.  The M-T trucks have no provision for electrical pickup.

Mike

Quote from: nscaler711 on September 13, 2007, 07:07:49 PM
sorry.
but you could repaint the units
to a diff RR

N&W comes to mind.  A friend calls the color "13 dip black".

Mike

Quote from: rains train on September 13, 2007, 10:31:30 PM
got a DCC ready atlas SD-24 today for 80 buck at the train store, running it in, so far it looks great! The people that looked at my engine at the train store said the engine was almost fried!    It was because of dog hair!!!! ................my dog pretty much lives in my room, so whenever im not useing my new engine, thats running well on b-mann track so far, I'm going to put it back in the box so no dog hair gets into it 

The dog hair is most likely getting into the engine while it is running, not when it is just sitting.  That dog hair is going everywhere and the engine will pick it up while it  goes down the track.  Storing the engine in its box is a good idea though...

Mike

Quote from: June on September 11, 2007, 03:23:12 PM
Thanks guys...I am starting to learn something, but I have one more question...How can a person tell if the J Class is a new version or an old version?

I believe that only the new version of the "J" has holes for the speaker in the tender floor.

BTW, here is an in-process shot of a DZ123 being installed in my connie:


Mike

Quote from: nscaler711 on September 12, 2007, 06:19:44 PM
Mike you beat me to it!
And the UP didnt have any Hi hood GP50's

Aww, man!  Do you have any idea how many bubbles you've just burst?

Mike