I am/was planning on using Rigid Insulatoin boards from Home Depot.  The 2" thick 2ftX8ft board looks like a winner.  This will allow me to dig down (for culverts and roads) as well as a possible grade increase for the track.

Any one planning on attending.  Or has anyone attended in the past, looking ot go an wondered how it compares to the show done in Springfield MA at the EXPO.

pjf, you can also use the #5 turn out.  Especially if space is a condiseratioin, as the #6 is longer than the five.  I am using #5's with an 18" inner and a 22" outer oval and it works great.

In general the red wire with the connectors attaches to the acc point on you controller.  Then plug the black connector into the switch provided, goes on the side.  The green wire plugs into the switch also.  The green is a three wire connection so just look the switch over and you will understand which plugs into where.

Mike,

I am building the same track plan w/the EZ Track.  Have just about everything except two RH cross overs and the second set of LH.  While inside scenery maybe limited I like the ablity to run two (2) trains, and with the blocking I think I can do run a third switch loco in the switch yard.  By the way I started with a 4x8 table but have added 6" inches alond one side.  With out it is really tight, track runns right on the edge.

OK found it.  That should work great.  thanks

Great idea but no, there is no scoring.  I am looking at part # 44565, and I have two (2) and no indication of any preparation to be able to fit other track.  Not sure yet wht to cut it with or what to use to determine the cut.  Will noodle for a while before I start to cut up a new piece, they are kind of exspensive to screw up.

Picked up two (2) #5 trunouts in the easy track.  When I went to added them to my lay out I found out that the straight, or continuation on the main track, will not connect to another track.  Looks like I need to cut out a piece on either the turnout or the piece being add, is this right.

Great thought the wiring would work.  As far as adding a switch, my financial advisor (read wife) will have to approve.  Not that I am afraid to spend the money, I am afraid of her.

Scale guess that would be important, HO.  Not even sure I could fit it into my layout, but I live near it and have always wondered if it was relicated for HO.

Anyone ever seen anything made to resemble the Cape Cod MA train bridge>

Been thinking about doing just that, wallet will like that as well.  I think instead of the three I will go with one on each side.  Thus having one to transition to the inner loop and one to transition to the outer loop.  Not sure why it was built with three.

Actually I think the gray road bed gives enough clearance so I won't need to shorten, but will keep your advise in mind.  Last thought on this for now, the switch's that are used together to move the train from one track over to the other.  Can I wire them into the same momentary switch.  They will need to operate at the same time, cutting splicing and wiring dose not scare me.  Or soldiering for that matter.  Just wondering if the juice form the switch will support moving both.

Jeff,

Again thanks for the recommendation on the reversing of the switchs.  No I did not know I could make a 20 degree loop, but will do so now.  Should give more room inside for the switch yard.

Jeff,

Thanks for the info on the switchs.  Looks like I can go with the bacmann with no problem.  Also thanks for the recomendation, as I have not yet put the switches in yea know budgets are tight.  Anyway I am trying to understand your change in the placement of the two (2) switches.  By reversing them you mean, flipping them over?  Or swapping sides, moving the left one to the right and the right to the left.