I'm trying to resurrect a supply of old Bachmann HO rolling stock but am having trouble converting the old, hook-style couplers to the knuckle type.  I think I have the right knuckles but they won't bolt to the cars.  Am I missing something?

Timothy, thanks.  That's a start and I appreciate the response.

I'm starting an old-time themed N gauge layout and am wondering who if anyone produces steam-era locos in that gauge with factory-installed DCC and sound.  Failing that, is there a reliable and moderately affordable source for conversion of a DC loco to DCC and sound or a DCC loco to sound?  I'm great at mountains and roadbed but when it comes to mechanical work on something that small, I have 10 thumbs.  Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Very nice stuff!  Thanks.

Anyone know when we'll get an on-line image of the On30 4-6-0?

In the absence of detailed directions, I found it a challenge to convert my 2-8-0 from coal load to wood load and from onion stack to tapered stack.  I got it done except I'm left with that long curved wire doohickey that is supposed to attach somewhere but that somewhere is indicated nowhere in the diagram or the directions.  So does anyone know how and where to hook  it on?  Also, in the absence of the onion dome, do I take off the wire thing from the front of the onion dome?  As always, thanks.

I've just about concluded that there are some among us who should be prohibited by law from owning or operating an electric train.  Maybe there should be an examination, like a driving test, the failure of which would forever limit one to owning only those Thomas Tank things you push along on wooden tracks.  In any case, instead of naming names, I will move on to the 33rd consecutive stupid question I have posted herein during the past three months.

Yesterday, my northbound freight, powered by a nifty Bachmann On30 DCC-equipped 2-8-0, jumped the track on a tight curve and struck a southbound passenger train powered by an equally nifty Bachmann DC-only 2-6-0.  Because I had ignored everyone's advice to install guardrails around the edge of the trainboard, the collision sent one of my very handsome Bachmann On30 passenger cars off the track, off the table and onto the concrete basement floor, where it nearly disintegrated.  Specifically, the roof came off, both end-rails were propelled asunder, both trucks came apart and all four (or eight, if you will) wheels rolled here and there underfoot.

Because much of all that is reattachable, I was able to reassemble the car.  But no matter how may times I did that or how many ways I approached the reassembly, the car refuses to behave as it did before.  Instead of lighting up when placed on the track, it shorts everything out when placed on the track.  Obviously, I seem to be reversing poles or swapping anodes for cathodes or something.  Any thoughts?

My thanks.

I just started using the Bachmann E-Z Command DCC system. The directions note that it has the amperage to run only two locos without loss of performance.  Can I cheat a bit and run three locos without coming to a dead stop or must I invest in one of those outrageously-priced power boosters?  By the way, the DCC control system is awesome!

Mr. Bachmann Man and others:

I'm running my new Bachmann DCC-equipped 2-8-0 on DC temporarily in advance of shifting to DCC control next month.  The problem is speed -- even with no rolling stock in tow and the throttle wide open, the 2-8-0 runs about half as fast as my Bachmann non-DCC 2-6-0's.  Will the speed improve when I convert to DCC control?  Is there another problem I should be addressing?  Or do I just have a lazy engine on my hands?

Thanks.  But then again, why doesn't Bachmann make them with a couple of screw holes?  Seems pretty basic to me.

In the absence of screw holes, what's the best way to anchor those black crossover controller switches to the train board?  Super glue?

Where can I get basic specs on E-Z track items?  For instance, the length and width of the #6 remote crossover, or the length and width of a crossover made of two basic, #5 or #6 turnouts.  I'm tired of driving out to the hobby shop with a ruler every time I decide to add some weird extension to al ayout design.

I know that Bachmann's standard On30 E-Z track remote turnout mimics the standard 18" radius curve, but how about the #5 and #6 remote turnouts?  Are their "curves" also 18" and if so, how do I manage a turnout for a loco that won't take a curve that tight?  Also, if the #5 and #6 remote turnouts are electrically gapped, do I need to "ungap" them if I am running a wide-open DCC system?  Finally, I can use DC-powered remote turnouts and crossovers on the same layout where I use DCC technology to control the locos, right?

I know that Bachmann's On30 2-6-0 loco will take the 18" radius curves and I've learned that the 2-8-0 will not.  But how about the On30 Forneys, Shays and Climaxes -- can they negotiate the 18" curves or do they demand a 22" or higher radius?

Thanks to all of you.  Next (stupid) question -- will the Bachmann On30 Forney, Shay and/or Climax locomotives negotiate an 18" curve or is a 22" (or greater) required.