Here's a question about connecting power to that wye:  The instructions say to connect the transfer switch to the accessory terminals of my controller.  My E-Z Command controller doesn't have accessory terminals.  (And that's another question:  why doesn't it?)  Also, how do I connect this controller to my isolated section of track?  Is there a splitter I can order, such that I could piggyback at the "To Track" jack?  Is that even how you're supposed to do it?  As for all the ordinary accessories, I could use a whole other transformer, but if I'm going to control the train, it looks like I have to connect to the E-Z Command controller.  I've seen in the catalog where I can get sections of track that have power connectors on them.  I wouldn't mind using those, but then I would need wires with those little connectors on both ends.  Can I order something like that?  (I hope I'm not really as dumb as I must sound.)

Looks like everything I ever learned about electricity just flew out the window.  I just received the wye I ordered. It's supposed to be "electrically gapped", but for the life of me, I can't see a gap anywhere when I check for continuity with my ohmmeter.  I expected to see one leg open while the other leg was closed (and vice versa when I flip the switch).  What I am actually seeing is all rails (respectively) connected as if there were no gap.  I can see the relay contact swing from one contact to another, but shouldn't I see something change with my meter?  Is there a circuit diagram somewhere?  What I'm seeing with my meter indicates that I would have a short circuit relative to the main line just as if I were using an ordinary (ungapped) turnout.  Am I wrong when I expect to see one leg open?

And here's something else:  I can't seem to figure out how to connect this wye to the other track sections.  I can connect to one leg, but the other leg looks like it needs some kind of special something.  The ordinary turnouts connect just fine, but one leg is longer than the other to make room.  The legs on this one don't have any length.  It's labelled as a #5 turnout.  Am I supposed to cut away part of the roadbed of the piece I'm trying to connect, or is there a special piece I can order that will fit?

Any light y'all could shed would be greatly appreciated.  I keep thinking all this would be fun if I can get to where I understand it.  I guess that kind of understanding comes slowly but gradually.  (And that's okay.)

Thanks, rogertra; that picture shows what I needed to see.

Cool!  Looks like I'm among the Right People.

Thanks, jward; that's just exactly the answer I was looking for.  It's a relief to get that settled in my mind.  Now I can move on to a different track.  I'm sure it won't be long before I stumble on to something else I don't understand.

Okay, I think I understand, except for one thing.  They have a sketch (on that wiring web page that Len mentioned) that shows reversing both the isolated section and the main line.  I understand why I have to reverse the isolated part, according to which fork of the wye needs to match the main line, but why can't the main line stay like it is?  It seems to me that I would just have to make sure I don't run a train into the mismatched fork.  (I hope I'm not being too obtuse).  And yes, I like the "snap relay" idea rather than the automatic "module" because I would be better able to tell what's happening.  Thank y'all for your help and your patience.

All right then, I'll get on that page.  Thanks.

I'm new to Model Railroading and am Very Ignorant.  I rigged up a reversing setup on my layout (I used three turnouts arranged in a triangle), but when I connected the tracks, they shorted out.  Duh!  Of course they did, but isn't there a way to rig a reversing setup?  (I have a DCC locomotive.)  (Sort of like when you pull your pickup into somebody's driveway and back out so you're looking back the way you came.)  I've seen pictures of this kind of arrangement, but they use two turnouts and a wye.  I thought that was probably so the tracks fit together better.  The way I had it, I was going to have to add in a little one and one-eighth piece of track.  I can get a wye if I need to, but it's the short I don't know what to do about.  Can any of y'all tell me what to do?

It just this minute occurred to me that I might could insulate the track somewhere in that arrangement.  Would that work?  (Somehow, I doubt if it would be that easy.)  (Just in case that wouldn't work, my question still stands.)

I had the same problem, and took the "pony truck" off.  Now, I would like to try adding that weight y'all talked about, but I don't know which way is upside down.  I didn't pay any attention when I took it off.  Is the side where the axle is visible the bottom?

Alas, I live in a very small town.  The nearest Hobby Shop is fifty miles away, and I don't travel well.  On the other hand, I have ordered another train that will include a controller as well as a locomotive.  So I'll be able to isolate the trouble.  The Bachmann people have already said they suspect the controller, and for me to send it in to them.  I'm thinking about waiting until I get my new train, so I can feel more confident that I'm sending in the right thing.

Super glue!  All right then.  I'll get some of that in the gel form.  Thanks.

I don't what CA GEL glue is.  Would Elmer's be all right?  I already have some of that.

Thanks.  I can see that an Xacto knife is a Must-Have item.

All right then there now.  Thank you for the Knuckle Coupler answer.  Now I'll feel a little more secure about ordering them.  Now if I can figure out how to handle them with my Fumble Fists.  I may have to sit in a washtub so I don't loose them.  Is there a special tool for putting the little springs back on?

Thank you all for your replies.  I have ordered another train set so I'll be able to tell which is defective.

Here's a new question:  (I hope it's all right to change the subject.)  Where can I find E-Z track Manual turnouts?  All I have found so far are Remote controlled turnouts.  For now, I'd like to keep the cost down.  I don't even mind if they have  steel rails.  (I'm experimenting with Layout Ideas.)

Knuckle coupler question:  How do I tell the difference between magnetic ones and non-magnetic?  In the catalogs, I can get them in packages of 20 or 25, etc, but they don't say whether they're magnetic.  (Please forgive my ignorance.)  So far, it looks like Kadee couplers may be magnetic.  If I can get magnetic couplers, I can get some of those little magnets for the track, and fix some old cars I got from eBay.  (This is all HO, by the way.)