Or you could take a 4.5" and ad 2 2" pieces.  Granted to get the two inch pieces, you'll need to purchase a 90^o crossing to them.  I think it's the 90^o crossing.  For what it's worth that's how I got most of my 'filler' pieces.  I didn't need the pieces when I bout the crossings, or turnout, but they have come in real handy of late.


VidGuy069

ferro;
No matter what track you choose you're going to find those who jeer it and this who cheer it.
Personally I like it.  The track stays joined well, and, if need be, you can take large sectons of your layout apart as a single unit.  That unit remains together.  Most of the time.  
Some say it's not very versatile.  Depending on the complexity of your layout, they may be correct.  BUT you can mix EZ track with other brands by modifying EZ track.
For me the best part about using EZ track is that each piece has the rail joins already added.

My 0.00000001 cent worth.


VidGuy069

Bachmann sells green cables that run 10 ft.  Or you can cut off the black tips, add the needed distance of wire, and you're done.  Since I don't use that style turnout (all DCC for me) I'm going to GUESS and say 18 or22 gauge wire MIGHT do the trick.

Hope this helps.


VidGuy069

Jonathan;
I 'joined' YouTube about a year or so ago.  I'm just sorry I waited so long.

email me private and we can discuss giving up on 'cheapy'.    If you like.

VidGuy069

vidguy069@cox.net

That depends.  Are your kids  trains DC or DCC.  If the turnout came with green wires then it's DC and cannot be programmed.  If it did NOT come with green wires then it CAN be programmed.  Assuming the latter, I've got some very bad news. I can't help MUCH because I do not use that controller.  I do know that using a small object,i.e. toothpick(unused), ballpoint pen, or pin, or similar, with power turned ON press and hold recessed button on the top side of the turnout until the switch rail shift a few times.  As to which buttons on the controller to press and when, someone else will need to respond.

VidGuy069