The axle sheared at the square pin that joins the two wheels.  I've drilled out one side from the hole on the outside of the wheel (the one with squard shaft for the plastic drive gear).  I think if I drill out the other side fromn where the break is I will end up with a round hole instead of a square one.

Has anybody fixed one of these with a round pin?  Will it hold up?  I'm sure I can get the 90 offset at least close and glue it all together.  Qny advice will be welcome.. Thanks.

I've posted on this topic before and have a couple more questions.  I have the new Crest receiver with sound, and have made most of the connections per Mr. Carnelos' first article in GRM.  Details of the P8 soundboard are different from the Crest with sound receiver.  I have, though, removed the Bachmann soundboard in the tender.

My goal for sound is to have chuff, bell and whistle.  I won't be using smoke or any other sounds at this time.

I will be asking these questions of the Crest people, but I thought there might be details particular to the Annie that I can get answered here.

First question is about the chuff connection.  The chuff plug has two black wires and one white.  Crest instructions show one black and the white wire as chuff going to a reed switch.  

Can I assume I would solder these two directly to the "sound" wires from the loco? (they indicate white as the common wire).

The instructions then show the second black wire as "whistle" but say nothing about where to connect it.  I assume the bell and whistle are programed into the board -  are any other connections required?

I'll appreciate any input you may have.  Thank you, Howard

Bill Canelos' article is about using the Crest Revolution transmitter/receiver in converting an Annie to battery power. He writes about cutting the black and red wires that connect the rear headlight.  He instructs to cut the black wire leaving the resistor with the light.  No problem there.  He then shows cutting the red wire in front of the shrink-wrapped connection.  However when he shows the final wiring that piece is still there.  In my tender there are shrink wrapped sections on both wires - I don't know if there is a resistor in the red wire.   

Is there a resistor in the red wire also?  If so does it get eliminated or kept with the light.  It seems that if there is no resistor in the red wire it doesn't matter where the wire is cut.

Has anybody done this conversion who can answer the question?

Also, has anybody done this conversion using the newer Crest Revolution that includes sound.  I have a question about connections to the new system.

Thank you anybody who can answer.

I have an old radio controlled 10 wheeler.  When I got it it didn't work.  There was power in the loco and power in the transmitter, but the two didn't connect.  Some time later I tried again and it did work, but since the antenna was broken the range was only about 10'.  Later it didn't work again, and hasn't since despite power to both devices.

I took it to a shop dealing in radio control models.  They replaced the antenna and determined that the frequency it operates on is 27.095 mhz.  It still didn't work, and they had no transmitters in that range.

My question is: 
---Is it possible to purchase another brand of transmitter in the 27.095 range and make it work?
I will have to travel some distance to a store that sells them and try to find one that works.  It seems the simpler and cheaper option.
---Or am I better off buying a new transmitter AND receiver and replacing the one on board the loco?
I'm not confident in doing the electronics myself, so that option can get pricy fast, and it is an old train.

I'd appreciate any advice or experience any of you have.
Thank you.

Is it possible to modify or change the salt and whistle domes on a basic 4-6-0 locomotive.  I have wood-burner type domes and want to model coal era.  I know the stack is changable - are the domes?  Thanks for any help. 
from a newbie