Thanks for the memory, I recall the explosive action quite well.  That was a Lionel O gauge set as I recall.  I'd like to see that on Big Bang Theory!

definately not.  I have built many model railroads in both HO and N scale, there has never been any need to solder the track rails together.  Having said that I expect a dozen replies to the contrary.  If you solder the track it will warp out of shape with changes in temperature and humidity.  Better to leave a tiny gap if using 3 foot lengths of flex track.  For B-Man ez track, the connection is good enough.  It's a waste of time and effort to solder.....

Good luck

My current model railroad is called the Phatom Valley, because it doesn't exist.  I have fifty pieces of Bachmann e-z track, including  a 30 degree crossing and one turnout. I keep them in my desk drawer.  For the last five years every time I just have to run those trains, I dump the whole lot on the living room floor and just start plugging them together.  Each time I get a different track plan.  I stepped on a few peices once and ripped the rails away from the ties.  Fixed it with CA cement to the bottom of the rail and pressed back in place.  Seems to be very rugged track. 
I agree with Rich there - Nickle/Silver is the only way to go for good operation.

Robbob
Brass Hat
Belt Line Union Railroad - Ship it in a BLURR.......

Check the screw that holds the drawbar to the locomotive first.
I have purchased some loco's where the screw came loose in shipping(?)
After tightening the drawbar it aligned straight to the tender, as it is meant to do
without any bending........

good luck.

I've got one.  It runs great.  If you can find one, get one. This locomotive is very esoteric. Not applicable to many railroads because of it's unique Russian design. May become a collectors item in the future.

Happy Railroading!

Thank you...you nailed it! That's exactly right.  Thanks for that great explanation.  In the interest of full disclosure, I'm running "cab control" with block selection by DPDT switches.  My other power pack is a CMI 20 M.  The CMI looks exactly like an MRC Tech II but it has an additional knob to adjust the track voltage.  Back in the day when I was running N scale I developed the bad habit of crancking up the voltage if a train stalled to kick it into running.  Obviously this will not work with the DCC decoder installed.  The part number for the decoder is Bachmann  44915 on the shrink wrap, I do not see this in there current on-line parts inventory.
You 'da Man!

Happy railroading!

  Yeppers, that's exactly what I'm saying.  I'll try it again tomorrow and try to re-create the results.
I wonder if I blew somtheing up  by accidently putting the DCC plug in backwards.
Thank you.

Great running Spectrum 2-8-0 I've had a few years suddenly only runs forward and won't go in reverse.  I'm running DC using a tech-II power pack, momentum is off.  Put the 'dumb plugs' in and it runs ok, put the decoder back and it won't reverse.  Weird.   Anyone seen this before?  Also noticed it seems to run smoother on DC with the decoder plugged in.

One more thing.. the decoder plug pin marked '1' is oriented such that in can only fit in the pc board pin hole marked 8, or 4 if turned around.  If I plug it so pin 1 matches hole 4 it wont move.  Pin 1 in hole 8 only runs forward, no reverse.

Happy Railroading!