Quote from rogertra...
"All these can be quickly answed on Google, faster than replies here."

   rogertra,  If you wish folks with legitimate questions, however often they are asked, to always go to google, then why are YOU here??
   I love this post place. Mostly I just read them. But I always get smarter with EVERY post!
   "The only stupid question..."
   Wackeyracer...Ask away. I would guess by your handle, that you also love slotcars as much as I do. My favorite layout I have ever made is both extensive slotcar track and trains. Carefull at that track crossing!!

Kelly

JOEV  I have that tt and know all it's ins & outs. I originaly had trouble because I had multiple "Powered" tracks at various indexes. Now remember, the tt's bridge is always powered from index #4, so as I rotated the tt, it's powered bridge rails would contact my "Other" powered rails and instantly short out, reseting my DCC every time. Hense the need to use isolating rail joiners for "Powered" tracks. EVEN THEN you MUST have polarity correct, as the "Bridges" polarity may be in conflict. The "Indexes" alternate how their polarity is expected. UNFORTUNATELY the documentation NEVER MENTIONS this.
   The polarities are (Starting at index #1, & rail closest to controll room building) #1 thru #4 are A-B, then #5 thru #13 are B-A, and #14 thru #16 are A-B polarity. (A & B being same +v/-v as as powered index #4.)
   Basically the indexes are ment for unpowered spurs, to park your engines on. When the bridge is rotated away, from said spur, It has no power, and is not effected by your controller.
   As far as backing in, or forwarding in, its all how you want. Just rotate until desired index is reached, and back in or forward in. Bridge rotates continually around!
   I also recommend a seperate Standard DC controller to run tt instead of DCC. You get to controll the rotation direction AND SPEED seperate from your DCC controller. I'm not sure you can controll speed of rotation w/DCC.

Sorry For Long Windedness,
Had Lots To Say I Guess,
Kelly

Hello,

   My research shows it as "Analog" DC only. Many on e-bay say "Analog"

   Looks cool.

Kelly

Wow,

     There is an "exploding bridge" in HO that I've seen in recent past. I will seek it out again, and post it here later!!


Too Much Fun,
Kelly

Who could forget...
The Master Demolition Man;

Gomez Addams (John Astin) of The Addams Family!!

     If you've never seen an episode where he heads two trains straight at each other, (Very large, G or larger) destin to crash head on at the bridge ahead.......But they never hit each other...

     Any recall?
Kelly

Rich,
     Putting isolators on the powered rails will fix UNLESS that piece of track is polarized wrong. Some TT positions are polarized one way, and others, opposite. I tested each track to find polarities.
     Going clockwise from pos. 1, rail 1 is "A", rail 2 on pos. 1 is "B" polarized. Pos. 2 is A-B, 3 is A-B, 4 is A-B. I.e.; 1-4 are alike. pos. 5-13 are B-A polarized, and 14-16 are A-B polarized.
     I.e; Pos. 1-4, and 14-16 are alike, but pos. 5-13 are opposite polarity!!
     You MUST isolate powered rails (except #4) to prevent shorts durring rotation!
Hope this helps. Maybe Bachmann will add this data next run?
Kelly

Hello Again.
     Doneldon Wrote:
      "You won't run any feeders directly to the isolated track. Rather, you connect a feeder to the reverse loop module and feed the isolated section from the module."
     A slight oxymoron. (I love finding these and also love puns) I knew the feeder(s) would come from module.
     Sounds like this is what I want. I will wait a day or so for others who might have ideas about this module! Once I buy it, I can't return!

Kelly

Acy & All,

     My system is DCC, and module is called "Spectrum EZ Command Control System Digital Automatic Reverse Loop Module 44912". So.."Loop"! Not "point to point"!
     Do I need any special track? Maybe std. track w/isolating contacts, and 2-3 point wireing?

Thanks,
Kelly

Hollo All,

     I have found a good price on this DCC reverse loop module, but I don't find any ref. to the track! Do I need special, or can std. roadbed track be used?

Thanks,
Kelly

Thank You To All,

     All the info given is very usefull.
     I do wish Bachmann and others would provide deminsions, either in scale, or actual Proto #s. There are dozens of On30 products that have diff W. x L. x D.'s. Some will fit, and some won't.
     I guess I'll have to choose a unit, and then do major research on original deminsions. Seems easier to provide #s at sales levels.

Here's Hopeing,
Kelly

Some items show deminsion. But not many.
     Not to repeat myself, but "Is there a typical "max" deminsions that pass for On30?"
     It's still 10" in my world. And less than 1" space between some rails.
     Doe Ray Me Fa So La Tee Doe. I know the scales. I don't know "On30 specs.!

     Anyone out there with this info?

Thanks
Kelly

Thanks guys,

   Don; Just FYI the Bachmann TT has a 10" bridge span + 2" leadouts = 14" total span.
   Is there a way to tell length, width, hieght? They are rarely given on line.
   I do have 3 radius', some that come very close in dual and tripple track.
   Is there a typical "max" deminsions that pass for On30?

Thanks All
Kelly

Hello all,

    No longer in Bac catalogs..but still available "28163" On30 0-4-0 Gas Locomotive w/DCC, Little River. Will this fit thru my HO Bacmann Turn-table, etc.?
 http://www.modeltrainhobbyist.com/bac28163.html
You may need to "cut & paste" the above link if you want to see one.
    Perhaps there is a way for me to tell when On30 works on HO. Any hints? I want to get several On30 units, but I only want to buy what I know will work.

Thank You On30 Times
Kelly

To All (including Yardmaster and Bach-Man),

     Problem is fixxed. Thank you very much to Jim Banner. His idea to isolate "Powered" track inputs with tape solves ALL. I don't need relay patch. Never installed it. I just knew that I could cut power to the bridge while rotating!
     The TT is not defective in any way. Just some fine tune at next run. The Lights DO blink on/off/on BECAUSE they engineered it that way, so that shorts occur less!
     My promlem was that I had more than 1 powered track comming into the TT. All these powered tracks need isolation from contacting the bridge. (Even if polarized correctly, as they NEED to be.)
     I will, of course, not use tape. I will just insert isolating rail joiners to powered tracks. EXCEPT at #4 index, as it NEEDS to get bridge voltage from there. There is NO SHORTS while rotating...Even #4, as they accounted for this in design. (DO NOT isolate #4!)
     The only problem remaining is the on/off/on rail power while approaching certain indexes. I sure understand the need, but perhaps this "outage time" can be made VERY short and perhaps not even notice them.

Thank You Again Jim, a real Banner guy!
kpsdjs
Kelly

To All,

     Problem is fixxed. Thank you very much to Jim Banner. His idea to isolate "Powered" track inputs with tape solves ALL. I don't need relay patch. Never installed it. I just knew that I could cut power to the bridge while rotating!
     The TT is not defective in any way. Just some fine tune at next run. The Lights DO blink on/off/on BECAUSE they engineered it that way, so that shorts occur less!
     My promlem was that I had more than 1 powered track comming into the TT. All these powered tracks need isolation from contacting the bridge. (Even if polarized correctly)
     I will, of course, not use tape. I will remove offending rail contacts and file away the Bottom 1/8" or so of those 2" lead-ins. If I ever want to change layout, I will just replace the 2" rails with new! Better yet, just insert isolating rail joiners. EXCEPT at #4 index, as it NEEDS to get bridge voltage from there.

Thank You Again Jim, a real Banner guy!
kpsdjs
Kelly