844, here is a good link to show how to paint models with spray paint, it maybe a automobile model, but model trains get painted in the same manner. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v7NH5iZX7Lk

The others who have posted on here have all given great advice on how to paint, the most important things are light coats and patience.

Is it a Rivarossi FEF or just a mocked up Bachmann FEF from an NYC or ATSF prototype? I agree that if you look around you will find an actual Rivarossi/AHM FEF for good prices at times. I have seen the Rivarossi models occasionally at train shows for $50, Ebay has a couple cheap ones right now too. If you have your heart set on making them, they can easily be made out of styrene with a sharp hobby knife, a ruler (preferably a metal one so you don't accidentally cut into it), a small square (this tool is optional but helpful), and of course model glue.
Ryan

   Another way to do it is, with a #13, or similar exacto knife blade. The biggest rules of thumb, light pressure, and patience. A #13 is a curved blade. The way to do this is to hold the blade that is it exactly vertical, and just slowly scrape the blade over the lettering. You almost virtually let the blade lay on the lettering, adding little to almost no pressure on it. This especially works good on bachmann models as models I used this technique on, had lettering that more or less "chipped off" after a few minutes.
 
  I know there maybe a few nay sayers to this technique, but if you want to remove lettering from a bachmann model, this is yet another method, and if done properly, will leave no marks. Modelers who rush to do this, or add too much pressure can damage the finish. I have used this method on bachmann's E33s, GP30s, and SD45s myself.

  The other alternative, start with an undecorated model and paint it. I would like to see Bachmann's GP7s and 9s, along with their RS3 offered undecorated, as they are great models for the price and ease of availability at hobby stores.
Ryan

I would say youll need to start over. Personally, if you gluing track down and not nailing it down (that of course being dependant on exactly what material youre attaching the track to), I suggest using Pins, you can pick them up at virtually any craft store or walmart for a dollar or so. I personally suggest using T-pins being they have a little handle that will be handy in the last step. Also make sure the pins are small enough that they will fit through the nail holes in the ties. First put you adhesive down, then set the track in place to your liking, the take the pins and place them in the nail holes in the ties.  You dont need to put the pins in far, just deep enough into the layout that they will keep the track in place. Once the glue dries, gently remove the needle. You shoud be gentle doing this because you could pull the track up if the glue hasnt fully dried or the need is caught on something under the track. Sometimes giving them a little twist before pulling them out (the reason why T-pins are suggested) will also free them from any glue or other materials that it making them harder to pull out.

If youre referring to coupler height issues with Rapido couplers, there is no real fix that I know of for height issues. I am not aware of there ever being companies that make, or made a rapido coupler that have overset or underset couplers. As Albert suggested, the best fix to the situation is to use some sort of knuckle couplers. Bachmann makes a dummy coupler that may fit directly into the draft gear box on the engine. Preferrably however, Micro-trains I think makes the best product being there are several sizes available for virtually any N scale engine. If you go on their website, look under "Conversions", there you will find a listing by manufacturer and engine type as to what they recommend for the conversion. Alberty is right that it may require a small drill ad tap set, along with small screwdrivers to convert them.

Another thought, some DCC systems don't ahve the power to program certain types of decoders. I use Digitrax myself, but the system I originally had did not have the power to program Tsunami decoders (I was using a Digitrax DCS 100 booster at the time). This left me with a choice, either buy a bigger system or get a programming track booster. I decided, due to the size of my layout and future expansions to buy a bigger digitrax system to run with my current system (A DB150 booster). For a smaller layout that may never need to expand to more than one booster, a program track power booster maybe a better option because its much cheaper (most seem to be aorund $50). I have read about them via Tony's Train Exchange, I'm sure there more information on there.

I know someone who had a similar problem with a Bachmann Russian Decapod with sound, the sounds worked but the engine would not moves. First tihnk would be to do a factory reset, as mentioned before in another members post. If that does not work (like the the decapod I mentioned), contact Bachmann. The decapod I mentioned ended up getting the motor replaced due to the fact the the motor brushes were basically worn down to nothing due to heavy usage of the mentioned engine. The engine now runs great again since the repair.

You can find "Dummy" non powered engined around, though they are becoming harder to find. Years ago, people used Dummy engines in order to use less power on the power packs when running a train with 2 or more engines (1 powered-1 dummy, 1 powered-2 dummies, etc.) being that dummies were cheaper, and older models tend to require more power to run compared to today's newer models. With that said, most manufacturers have changed to producing only powered engines, the only exceptions being some sets that have 2 engines in the set, this keeps the price down a little on the sets. I would just ask at a train store about dummy engines, they may have some, if they don't, keep checking around.
Also, I myself have put together train sets for youngsters over the years, I have found that models with a lot of small parts such as hand railings, and horns, get removed quite quickly. That can be caused by the model being dropped or mishandled, and in some cases, a destructive child that gets bored one day and tries to pull every possible loose part off the model. My personal suggestion for an engine is an "F-unit", I will post a link below of a photo of one. Athearn brand "F7A" units are probably the easiest to find as a dummy engine. These engines typically do not have a whole lot of parts that can be broken off, of course supervision is the best suggestion. Same goes for cars, cars more molded on feature will stand up better.
F7A:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Athearn-HO-MILW-CMStP-P-EMD-F7A-Dummy-NIB-3017-/280719763031?pt=Model_RR_Trains&hash=item415c33a657

Sometimes an issue in N scale is that the locomotives with body mounted couplers swing much wider that the cars can handle, being the cars typically have a truck mounted coupler. There are 2 solutions to this problem without modifying you current track, if it is fastened to a layout that is. One option is to body mount a coupler to one of your cars, this will make the coupler swing further out, so the engine should not pull it off the track. Second, mount a longer coupler to your engine, that can swivel pretty freely, that will allow the coupler on the engine to swing far enough over to match up with the coupler on your freight cars. I am not sure exactly what couplers you're using, but if you're using the old large (sometimes referred to as "Rapido") couplers, the best thing to do is look at different ones available in parts boxes or sections, some manufacturers of these couplers had varying sizes of the coupler shanks. If you are using a knuckle-type coupler, Bachmann does make a knuckle type dummy coupler in 3 shank lengths, or trying using Micro-trains couplers, which are made in various sizes and coupler heights.

Very nice models on your website, I have done Atlas RS3s in Reading, but have a growing list of models to custom paint. Its too bad theyre not so easy to come by in undecorated sometimes

I completely agree, all manufacturers, train or non-train are obviously out there to make money, but I threw the suggestion out there because its beneficial in a couple ways. One being its easy to manufacture (no paint required, leave some assembly for the buyer instead of paying someone or paying for run time on a machine to apply them) and it is beneficial for the availability to modelers out there who enjoy custom painting. Anything in the business world can be a gamble, I am sure for Bachmann, for example, the E33s, Steam Engines, and the entire On30 line was somewhat of a gamble, because it only appealed to certain modelers. Because Bachmann decided to take a chance, they probably brought in new interests to modelers with these products. Like you said, it is Bachmanns decision on whether this is a good idea or not, but the suggestion is out there, now it is up to them to decide.

I am not complaining, simply suggesting, because of the availability of these engines over trying to find Proto and Atlas models in Undecorated. No need to get upset because other people opinions don't match yours. We are all here to learn, and help one another, and discuss Bachmanns Product Line and ways we enjoy it and can possibly improve it. Not all opinions will be the same. I have stripped Bachmann models before, some went well, some not so much, again, undecorated models create typically a better product, and you save time and cash by getting them. Unless you are directly working for Bachmann, I think this is up to them to decide whether or not this is a good idea, it is obvious there are other fellow modelers out there that agree that undecorated models are easier to work with than to strip a pre-painted one

Quote from: ACY on February 01, 2011, 03:55:07 PM
All you have to do is apply a coat of paint over the loco or remove the previous decal's and you have an undecorated loco, if you are going to be custom painting/decorating it anyways what is the difference it is originally unpainted or a painted unit.

The difference is the QUALITY of your paint job, here are several reasons why undecorated models are better for custom painting:
-When you paint over a pre-painted model with printed on lettering and striping, that will all show through you new paint job. Also layers of different paint colors will show through where there are 2 or more colors used on the shell. The only ways to remedy this is to A: Strip that paint or B: apply so much paint that you cover up this issue, along with all the details on the model shell (not desirable).
-Stripping paint and decals works sometimes, other times it doesn't so well. Decals aren't that hard to remove as long as there are multiple coats of clear or dull coat over them. To strip models you can use Chameleon paint stripper for plastic, 91% rubbing alcohol, or sometimes Brake Fluid (this can damage some plastics), but it will not always work properly. Sometimes it will take all the paint off, sometimes it wont at all. Usually too then you have the fun of picking paint out of all the small crevices, failure to remove fragments of the old paint job WILL show in your model.
-Undecorated locomotives also tend to be a little cheaper, and less work in the end that buying a pre-painted model that you'll have to strip and repaint. With an undecorated model, you primer it (some modelers dont, just my personal preference), then paint it, and you will have a nice thin coat of paint, which allows all the details on the shell to show through.
-Depending on manufacturer, pre-painted (lettered and unlettered) models have different qualities and thicknesses of their paints. Most manufacturers do not use any of the commercially available paints available at your hobby shop, they can thick or thin when applied, and whoever or whatever applies the paint can make some models already have a pretty thick paint job. Now by adding another layer of your own paint, you hare making it thicker, covering all your details.
-Pre-painted models come usually fully assembled, ready for decals, but when your custom painting, you want those details either easily removable, or not applied at the factory at all, so you can paint the model, and not have to paint or tape around obstructions.
-Unfortunately doing an painted/unlettered version of these units would be somewhat difficult because how many paint schemes and colors were applied to these engines. Steam engines and industrial locos are different because there was typically very common colors or striping used on them, road diesels are a different story

Hello,
I am new to this forum, but have been an avid  model railroader for nearly 30 years in both HO and N scales. I saw the new Bachmann GP7s and 9s, they look good, and I am sure they run as well as the newer releases from Bachmann. I have a suggestion though, is there any chance, in the future that these 2 locomotives could be offer in undecorated or unlettered? I say this because the it is continually hard to find good undecorated locomotives anymore for custom paint, which I enjoy doing, being mainly that Atlas was the only other manufacturer to do these models in undecorated. I know I speak for several people that desire to paint these engines in road names that with either not be produced, or freelance railroads, or even making difference engine numbers and/paint schemes/variations. The models do look good, and would buy some of them for painting. Thanks

Hello,
I am new to this forum, but have been an avid  model railroader for nearly 30 years in both HO and N scales. I saw the new Bachmann GP7s and 9s, along with the RS3s, they look good, and I am sure they run as well as the newer releases from Bachmann. I have a suggestion though, is there any chance, in the future that these 3 locomotives could be offer in undecorated or unlettered? I say this because the it is continually hard to find good undecorated locomotives anymore for custom paint, which I enjoy doing, being mainly that Atlas was the only other manufacturer to do these models in undecorated, as well as Proto 2000 doing the Geeps. I know I speak for several people that desire to paint these engines in road names that with either not be produced, or freelance railroads, or even making difference engine numbers and/paint schemes/variations. The models do look good, and would buy some of them for painting. I am also posting this in the N scale forum. Thanks