they look ok long as I don't look at the door on the side of the combine thats what triggers the to small look for me, even behind the 2-6-0 I have.
Maybe thats a little picky but floating scale is really my only rivot counter trait.

NM

From your brief discription I would guess that they could be from a big hauler Christmas set I think I read here  that the big hauler line was released in 1989 to date, I know you will get better answers then mine. but they will likely ask if you can find any numbers on them anywhere or for you to insert a picture.

nm

As Christmas is Coming Closer, I am pulling out the Large scale track and once again my critical eye is wanting Passenger cars to pull behind My 1:20 Loco The big haulers are nice but they just are not right. I know lots of others want these. I know I can buy other manufactures rolling stock or kits but I hate to mix and match...

NM

I've done the cell phone scraping, Don't forget to get that Tiny High Quality Speaker if it's a Phone with a speaker function. A while ago there was another tips post which mentioned scraping out old vcrs for their motors, belts, flywheels, Nuts bolts screws and other assorted moving, goodies.

NM.

I wonder if Dustin has his Wye installed and working yet?


Dustin?


NM

Anyone ever tear apart a battery operated "Tea Candle"? I have dozens of these around the house they come three for a dollar on sale around the holidays, when the battery goes dead they are useless because a new battery cost more then another three pack. I carfully take them a part solder on a 750ohm resistor to one leg and run them off of 12 vdc they flicker without a circuit board and you can place them anywhere you can put a typical size L.E.D. I put two in a 55gal drum with a piece of white tissue paper above them and the effect is perfect.

Just My 2 Cents

NM

Eric,
In order for this to work you must be able to switch the polarity of the isolated part of the track from the main track. in your drawing it appears you can only turn the power to the loop on or off. however if you switch the wires around on one end of the switch your configuration would work. my only problem with your design then  would be more wires to run to accomplish what could be done with less.

Just my 2 cents

NM

I'm going to convert all the couplers on the G scale steamer that runs around the top of my daughters room to these style couplers, this should put an end the the occasional "GHOST" uncoupling that occurs (that's who my daughter says uncouples them)  and before anyone says it I can't stand hook and loop couplers.

N.M.

Thanks Joe,
I just use the "paint" program that comes with windows and free hand the drawings. I agree with you on where the gaps should be, and I would move the reversing toggle leads there as well.

NM.

I thought I'd make it simpler knowing the track layout, I would use the ALT Gap shown which would give you plenty of track to move your constist onto before flipping the switch to change polarity. But thinking about it now if main power went to the "Circle" and the Polarity Switch was on the end of line section, then as soon as your last car crossed the "ALT" gap you could flip the polarity switch and your loco could merge back onto the track it came from with out stopping. once again feel free to comment.


Larger image http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy202/NarrowmindedRR/Untitled1.jpg

Joe, I'm not sure where dead shorts would occure on my other drawing (Removed) with each section being isolated. but I will study it like a puzzle til I see it.

I have seen this subject come up a lot, and recently, there are generally a lot of variables people ask about or mention, but the one thing that all the replies seem to agree on, is you should set up a section of test track with the min radius and grade to test operation of your equipment, and run them at the max speed you would run them, to make sure they run smoothly. it might seem like a hassle but stripping track off of a blank piece of plywood is easier the redoing your bench work.

NM

Thanks,
  No special problems at all, the only tip I would give is to remove the hook and loop couplers then screw the mounting screws in all the way, this will force thread the rest of the hole in preparation for the new couplers, remove the screw, then cut off the existing center mounting post flush, I also removed the molded lines that sick up next to that same center post, then I mounted Kadee #3 couplers.

NM
P.S. the face comes of easily by placing a x-acto blade under one corner and lifting up. they pop right off.

Of all the scales I have, I really enjoy on30 because there are so many options from other scales to bash, here is a bashed thomas troublesome truck, also shown is a tender I made with my 5yr old daughter last night in about an hour or so. she painted it with help from Dad 

thanks bill i'll have a look.
NM

OG-- is right about scale with the ceramic villages, even within a manufacturer the scale will very, when buying them for christmas I always try to buy buildings I like if they have a doorway that scales out around 6'7" for a house which is around 1-5/8 there abouts, also keep in mind that your minds eye will play tricks on you when looking down at a layout get down and look at everything from street level, it will give you a better perspective of whether it fits or not. of coarse the last rule is ... you have to like it.