Tom

While it might be a good idea for us, I think that it would be too expensive for a company to stockpile used parts.  The potential return would be minimal at best.  Sending someone out to find the correct part would cost more than the part.

I've got you beat.  I got my first train, a Lionel, in December of 1940 when I was 6 months old.  And trains have been a part of my life ever since.

Chuck

I tried on MLS, sorry you didn't like the suggestion.

I hope you can get an solution to your problem.

Chuck

Don't feel bad, it happens to all of us.

We've been there and done that.

Chuck

Yardmaster

Thank you for your prompt response.

Chuck

There are many solutions to this.  The one I use is to have an open gap at the entrance to one or both of the sidings.  There are insulating rail joiners, clamps, and sections of track with built in gaps.  On my analog DC layout I use LGB 1015U.  It is a short piece of track where one  rail is cut in half creating an opening that does not conduct electricity.  It has a pad in the center with electrical connections to the two halves.  I attach a wire to one side and another wire to the other side.  The two wires have plugs.  If I want the train to run, I connect the plugs.  If I want it to sit I disconnect the plug.

This can be done with any insulating rail joiner or clamp.  You just have to connect a wire to each side of the gap that can be opened or closed.

Chuck

Another option is to use a passing siding and diodes.  This requires four gaps and two diodes.  Diodes let current pass in only one direction.  When the diodes are set properly, a train on siding A will stop and with a change of polarity to the track, direction, train B will take off in the opposite direction.  We use this at our holiday show on the Thomas loop.  We have spring switches at each end of the siding, so that the clockwise train always goes into siding A and the counterclockwise train will always go into siding B.

Here is a picture of the Thomas loop.  James is coming around and will go straight through the passing siding past Thomas.  If I stop James on the siding, and reverse polarity to the track, Thomas will go in the opposite direction.  The switch at the entrance to his siding is set so that he will diverge and not hit James head on, much to the regret of the kids.



Here is a drawing of the track plan of the setup.




No DCC or computers, just a polarity/direction switch on my analog DC power supply.

PENTREX has an excellent video of the BIG BOYS in action.  I believe that they have footage of all of the UP BBs in the program.  I don't have it, but I have seen previews of the video as an ad on some other DVDs that I do have.  It is an impressive engine.

Chuck

PS As uscgtanker said the tender for the Big Boy is about 45' long.  That is only about 4' shorter than the D&RGW C-19 (including engine and tender) , a 2-8-0. One of my books says it is about 49' long.

There were a number of railroads that had articulated steam engines during the age of steam: Baltimore & Ohio, Norfolk and Western, Chesapeake and Ohio, Denver and Rio Grande, Duluth Missabe and Iron Range are a few that come to mind.  These were of different designs than the Big Boy, but they were all very large.  Some are saved at museums around the country.  I have seen a DM&IR "Yellowstone" at an exhibit in Two Harbors, Minnesota.  I think that there is Norfolk and Western "Y" on display at the transportation museum in Ronanoke, Virginia.

In the past the Colorado Railroad Museum has fired up its 4-6-0 and run it around its loop pulling a couple of passenger cars.  You might check their website to see when they are having a stream up.

Chuck

I'm not sure where your live, but if you haven't been to the Colorado Railroad Museum in Golden, Colorado,  I strongly recommend a visit.

They have an extensive collection of Narrow Gauge and Standard Gauge locomotives and rolling stock,  including some narrow gauge 4-6-0s, not too different from the Bachmann 4-6-0.  They cover early steam to diesel and have a lot of historical exhibits both indoors and out.

The Denver Garden Railway Society also has an garden railway setup and they are running most weekends and whether or not they run during the week, I don't know.  I try to get out to the museum whenever I am in  Denver.  Another stop I always make is at Caboose Hobbies on South Broadway.  They have a large "G" inventory and a lot of Bachmann products.  Last month I picked up a new Bachmann J&S coach.

Chuck

Most starter set power supplies, are minimal at best.  If you are going to run one train at a time I would recommend a minimum of 3 amps out put.  More engines with lights smoke and sound will require more amps.  Many of us recommend 10 amp units.  You will need a maximum voltage of 22-24 volts.

One more recommendation is when designing your layout, use the largest diameter curves that will fit into the site.  Most starter sets come with 4' diameter curves.  8 or 10' diameter is better and larger is better.  The tighter the curves, the more wear and tare on the engine.

Chuck

Thanks, I live in Virginia and don't have any local contacts in Florida.  

Chuck

PS, if you ask questions on one of the sites, I mentioned.  Be sure to mention where you live, and when asking a question--give as much background information as you can.  We get a lot of questions like "my engine doesn't run", "my train keeps jumping the track" and many similar questions.  The more information you provide, the better we can try to help.

If you can tell us the town of your new house, someone here should be able to direct you to a nearby group, either formal or informal.

Chuck

Welcome to the wonderful (some might say Wacky) world of large scale.  As a beginner ask questions, and more questions, but remember that you will get many correct answers that may and will conflict.  We all have our preferences, for instance, track power versus battery, versus live steam.  Or straight DC versus DCC.  There are many other examples.  Get your answers and then pick what is best for you.

When I started out in this part of the hobby, early 1980s, there wasn't any organized help out there.  I made many mistakes along the way.  Learn from our mistakes.  The chances of you making a "NEW" mistake is fairly remote. 

Joining a local club will be a real advantage.  There you can ask your questions and see other layouts.  People in your local area have solved many of your potential problems with solutions that work in your local climate.

This site is run by Bachmann.  Here we can answer your questions about Bachmann products and general questions about Large Scale, but we can't make recommendations about other products out there that compete with Bachmann.  I have 5 Bachmann engines and a number of their cars.  I am very pleased with them.  I also have rolling stock, engines and cars by several different manufacturers, addition to Bachmann, but I won't discuss them here.  It is not fair to Bachmann, who is paying to support this site.

For questions and recommendations about other manufacturers out there, good and bad, I suggest that you visit either <mylargescale.com> or <largescalecentral.com>.  They both welcome beginners and are helpful.  I am active on MLS, but many of my friends are active on LSC.  But as I said earlier, make local contacts, there you can actually see answers to many of your questions.  

Chuck

It depends on who made your track and its style.  Hollow steel track by Bachmann is held together by a pin that goes into the tube.  Solid rail track is held by rail joiners or rail clamps. 

Rail clamps are a more secure join.

Chuck

If it is 1:32 it will run on "G" gauge track.  Bachmann does not sell 1:32 trains.  I suggest that you ask further questions at <mysargescale.com>, or large scale central.  I use MLS and am not active at LSC. 

This site is reserved to Bachmann products and very general, non Bachmann, related questions about large scale.

Chuck

Measure the doors and the size of the openings.  I'd be surprised if they matched, as they are different scales.

Chuck