With the news that MP is now gone with the only US pacific,would it not be a good time for Bachman to release one.Yes I know this has been discussed before many,many times 

Do the have white axle gears? If they do they may have cracked (very common) which will cause them to bind.The wheels will turn but will bind when they get to the crack.
If the is the case you need new wheels with black gears or if it is only one axle you could remove the gear and sleeve it,but this will reduce pulling power.

I have used comet cleaner and a peace of soft wood.Mix up  a paste and rub it on the numbers.It seems to work well,but some times leave a shiny spot on the paint under neath.                                           

Bachmann:   Now that the real N&W J will be restored to operation. Would this not be a good time for Bachmann to release they J with a dual mode decoder and SOUND.
I like mine very much,they run great, but sound and the ability to run DC that would be better.

Any other opinions?

I used  Atlas 0-8-0 tender shell on a usra short spectrum frame. The USRA did not use a slope back tender, so yours maybe right for a 0-6-0 .

Bachmann.       Your newest 0-6-0s run very well it has been mechanically upgraded over the years but not cosmetically . With new boiler,cylinder and a spectrum tender this would be a great switcher. It is already used in kit bash projects, but maybe it would sell like your 2-8-0 some improvements. Seems like all railroads had some 0-6-0s

The same could be said about the non J   4-8-4

thanks RGW

I use some thin wire I bought from my LHS it is red. I paint it flat black ,seems to work fine.

I think the 1st thing you need to do is remove the boiler shell, it took me some time to figure out to remove mine.(I have since forgot how I did it but it has something to do with the cab floor and a plastic connector there) From there you should be able to test the motor out,you should be able to see which leads go to the motor and the light.I believe you can test for the light lead with a 1.5 volt battery,I think that is a correct voltage for LEDs and should not harm it. Maybe others gave give a second opinion on this and correct any errors in my voltage. hope this helps. It may be necessary to remove the engine side circuit board it is equally as completed  as the tender side that you already saw.Some time it is easy to replace wiring than to patch in the old ones.
Once again maybe other have a better idea for a fix. 

RGW

when you call Bachmann ask to talk with the repair Department, explain that you have a technical question.I have found them to be helpful in the past.

For the resister you could use the circuit board from some diesel engine just cut off the led light and connect the light wires to it and then connect the power. I do not think there is room in the engine for a resister,so you would still need 4 wires from the engine to tender  

I believe a person could remove the printed circuit board from the tender and connect the wires right from the brass strips that contact the wheel pick ups. Then remove the connector on the engine and wire it direct. You also could run wires from the tender leads threw a resister for the head light( 4 wires between engine and tender) this part could be savaged from a diesel engine.
I do not think directional lighting is important ,who runs J in reverse.
Just my thoughts, other people may have a better one.


RGW 

I can check my tender.I did rewire mine and I think I might have removed some tender guts,But not sure.Can't check tonight ,but I will tomorrow.

Bob

I tried to post a photo ,but it is to big.

The 6 axle . The 4 axle engine is  a AS 416 I believe.

Is there any word on the possibility of a baldwin as 616 coming out or any kits to make one?          Bachmann?