Hi Bob I guess you got me again...I do forget that not everyone has broadband. I, originally, put pictures on photobucket.com because one of my pen pals (in Montana) was stuck with dial-up as nothing else was available in his area. I need to be more conscious of others in the tech world. To be truthful, I do not post pictures on forums all that much...but it is nerve-wracking for someone on dial-up to wait a considerable length of time for one image to load.

You mentioned that you have a "tutorial" on an image compression program? I think this thread would be a good place to post it. Alternatively, you could start a new thread on the subject. In summary, yes - I'd like to see the tutorial very much.

Many thanks,
Ray

Bob: I just downloaded Irfanview and await your guidance.

Hi Terry...nice to talk to you again. You are, of course, correct...the photos can come from any website. What I wanted to stress is that you cannot take photos from your hard drive and post them on this (or the Model Railroader) forum.

By the way: you can see from the image in my post that I can follow your directions...you are the one that taught me how! Take care and get to work on that 1800s layout.

Ray

Yes you can post images. As was already said the original file must be on a photo-sharing website (such as Photobucket.com). You simply select the image you want to transfer to this forum using the Direct Link feature (I highlight the direct link address...then copy it to the clipboard).

Back in the forum look at the icons above the message space. The second row down, second icon from the left is the insert image selector. Click on this and you will get two symbols img separated by brackets. Click between the brackets and paste your copied image address from Photobucket. You will not see the image until you go back to the posted message. If there is a problem, you can always modify your post.

Check it out:



Hope this helps,
Ray

To the best of my knowledge, Bachmann does not offer a diesel unit with sound and DCC. I have two of their excellent Spectrum American 4-4-0s (one has DCC + sound, the other is only DCC) and cannot say enough about them. OK...you are interested in diesel - so I would recommend Atlas locomotives. I have had excellent luck with Atlas over the years and currently run their MP15DC when moving trains out of the 1890s (every once in a while I just have to get my diesel fix).

All DCC-equipped engines come with address 3. This isn't a problem - unless you intend to run more than one locomotive at the same time. My Bachmann 4-4-0s have a Soundtraxx decoder which, with the MRC Prodigy Advanced DCC unit I have, requires a separate programming track and programming booster. This is an easy unit to set up requiring only a short piece of track that is connected to the booster which, in turn, is connected to the MRC base unit. Piece of cake.

Every other Bachmann diesel (DCC only) or Atlas diesel can be programmed "on the main" or in ops mode. In other words, you can put the locomotive on the rails and program it through the MRC cab...do not have another locomotive on the layout when you are programming in ops mode! David, I am not familiar with the E-Z Command system so I will stop here. There is a rumor that Bachmann is going to introduce some diesels with DCC & sound...that would be great wouldn't it?

By the way: ALWAYS turn off the track power when putting on a locomotive...or taking it off. This is extremely important and you can save yourself a lot [readers: please notice that "a lot" is two words...NOT one] of trouble.

Ray

Craig...the best, cheapest, and least stressful thing you can do is send that locomotive to someone who knows what they are doing - and has installed decoders in lots of other applications. I have used Tony's Train Exchange and was pleased with the results as well as the pricing. Currently, I have a Bachmann 4-4-0 that is DCC - but doesn't have sound (my other 4-4-0 has both and what a difference). I will be sending #9 off to Tony's to get a voice.

Ray

RE60...I have had this problem, in the past, and it usually means your curve radii are too sharp. If that isn't the problem (or can't be corrected) there is little you can do except putting shims under the bolsters or somehow "carving out" the car underframe and raising the draught (coupler) box. I doubt you can lower the bolsters enough to have the wheel flanges clear the coupler box...besides it would look rather strange. The coupler box recess procedure could work if you have enough underframe to work with (my bet is that you don't). So...rather than trying to fight city hall, I would redo those sharp curves.

In any case...good luck!
Ray

I really have to agree with you guys...not being able to contact a poster off-line is the pits. The Model Railroader forum makes this process extremely easy - and I use it when appropriate. Too many threads are left unanswered or become too long in the process of answering...an off-line contact would allevate this. I do not recommend posting your email address! Model railroaders are some of the most honest people I have encountered (and I am a train show vendor that takes personal checks...never been stuck). Are you sure you know who is reading these forums? Do you really want your email spread all over the Internet? No...I think Mr. Bach Man needs to activate the off-line contact feature...it would make life easier. Until that happens, we will have to make due with an excellent forum as it is.

Ray

Regarding your derailment problem: the simplest test you can perform is to get an NMRA track gauge and check the clearances between the point rails and stock rails. In other words are all the rails in gauge? Then check the flangeways...are they wide enough - or are they binding the wheels? An NMRA gauge is absolutely vital for smooth-running trackage [Micro Mark Item #80752 @ $18.50]...it will also check wheel gauge - which is also a common fault.

If the point rails are not being held tight enough against the stock rails, AND if your turnouts are powered...there isn't a heck of a lot you can do about it. I would try the Bachmann service department. My last layout had Walthers/Shinohara turnouts and I had the same problem...frustrating to say the least. My turnouts were manual; so I installed Caboose Industries sprung ground throws. These items worked very well and solved my tension problem (there were many other problems with the Walthers turnouts - forcing me to tear the layout up and use all Peco products...which are really SPRUNG).

I've heard good things about the Bachmann E-Z track/turnouts - so you might have gotten a couple of bad apples. I have found Bachmann to be a supplier that stands behind their products; so give them a try.

Ray

Hi Rick, yes the skewer is the only method I use to uncouple cars. In the past, I have tried using uncoupling magnets - with little to no success (maybe it is me). A fellow modeler introduced me to the skewer method and I have been using it ever since. Skewers can be had for very little cash and come in a bag containing enough skewers to last you a lifetime. I like to think of this as subscribing to the KISS principle. On a recent return visit to a local model railroad club operating session, I was assigned yard duty with another gentleman. He was using the uncoupling magnets - whilst I did my chores with my trusty skewer (a new one for the occasion). By the end of the session, he borrowed a skewer and became a convert [so many couplers...so little time].

On a related note: I have tried the Rix magnetic uncoupling wand and have found it to be wanting. The Rix uncoupler wand has two magnets on each tine that are supposed to separate the couplers - much like the embedded track units. My experience has been that this method is marginal at best. Save yourself some money and buy a bag of skewers. If you are not satisfied, you will have enough skewers to make enough shish-kabobs for the entire neighborhood.

Ray

Ernie: 'Funny thing...I called the office today - and they acted like they didn't even know me!! Sheesh! I then realized that my Micro Mark ownership was related to that wild island get-a-way with a super model...they all disappear when the alarm clock rings. On the otherhand, I wonder how much one needs to spend to get a postion on their board of directors? If I am ever called to join, rest assured that I will work on that discount for all forum members. Until then: don't quit your day job.

Cheers,
Ray

Daylight, three things you absolutely need for car maintenance are: a Kadee coupler height gauge (works on all kinds of magnetic couplers), some Kadee Greas-em lubricant (ditto) and a trip pin adjustment plier (ditto). Always check the height of all the couplers on all your motive power and rolling stock...you might be amazed at the difference in couple height between cars. The couplers should match each other exactly...close isn't good enough. The Grease-em lubricant is a graphite powder that lubricates the couplers - making them spring back to center easier and more reliably...it also works great on wheel set axle points. Trip pins (if you keep them on the couplers...I do not) require a specific height - otherwise they might snag on turnouts and crossings.

Finding out that some of your couplers are not aligned correctly does you no good unless you can do something about it. This is where coupler box shims, or fiber washers for king pins, come into play. Adjusting coupler height can be done by simply inserting a fiber washer (spacer) between the truck bolster and the car body. This is OK if you don't raise the body of the car too much. The best method is to lower the coupler mounting box with a shim or two. Usually the coupler mounting box is either molded into the car underframe or is glued in place - making for a fun afternoon of cutting away with a #18 blade. I have found that very small adjustments are all that is required (try the fibre washer method first...the washer come in various thicknesses). If you have to make major adjustments...something is terribly wrong so I suggest you check further (is the car floor/underframe seated all the way in?..did you put the Kadee coupler spring on the correct side of the coupler?).

Micro Mark sells a package of 25 shims for $5.95 [Item #82565] BTW: they also sell couplers, Greas'em [Item #83919], and trip pin pliers [Item #80600]. All clearances and heights should be checked yearly and entered on the back of each car card. Most problems, with rolling stock, are due to poor maintenance. Note to the wise: this is a much easier project when you keep up with maintenance and only have one or two cars to check/fix...it gets less than enjoyable when you are stuck doing the whole fleet!

If it sounds like I am pushing Micro Mark products it is because I own a large portion of the company...I must own a large portion of the company as I spend inordinate amounts of money there each month (there is always that new catalog offering I just have to get). Oh, they also sell EZmate couplers at a very good price!

Ray

If you go to the Kadee website you will see a conversion list for just about all the trains you will ever come across. Probably the most common magnetic couplers out there are Kadee (with the #5 being the most popular of the lot). I, however, like Bachmann EZmate couplers for their price and ease of installation (they are a "whisker" type having no separate spring). Modeling the late 1800s, I do not pull large strings of cars (usually 10 max.) and have no problems with coupler separation. Additionally, I "neuter" all my rolling stock by snipping off the trip pins. Why?..because I use a bamboo skewer to uncouple cars. EZmate couplers seem to work the best in that application.

Ray

Terry, I repainted and weathered my turntable and it came out quite nicely. The added gallows structure would really be neat! If you want to have a roundhouse next to your Atlas turntable, I would imagine you will have to scratchbuild one. Personally, I feel if you want a pit turntable you would be better served by buying a pit turntable and not waste time trying to make the Atlas unit something it isn't. I understand Walthers has a good one in either 90' or 130'. There is a company that sells a craftsman kit that is a copy of a 19th century Armstrong unit - but it is very difficult to build.

I knew I had a prototype picture of a covered turntable pit. After lots of searching here it is:



Ray

Hey Terry...you mentioned making a roundhouse so that the door lined up with the Atlas turntable and that struck a nerve. I put a lot of hours into the roundhouse I pictured only to find out that it did not line up with the lead-in tracks! By moving the roundhouse back 6 or 8", and installing some rather wavy track, I was able to line up the lead in tracks with the roundhouse bays. To be completely honest...it looks terrible. I guess that is the major reason I am probably going to sell the roundhouse at our next show and begin construction on the Laser-Art single stall enginehouse. The turntable will still be used to turn engines on my 30"x12' layout (one of the lead-ins will go to the enginehouse. Ah...live and learn. My wife suggested that I build a pit turntable that more closely fits the late 19th century era; but the skill level and expense have made that an illogical choice.

I think your choice of a western-themed layout is a good one. I have seen several plans - I think there might be one in the MR layout plans section of their website. Somewhere, I saw a nice logging layout; but darned if I can remember where ('comes with advanced age I suppose).

Good luck,
Ray

Good looking couple...I think I've seen them shopping at Walmart. All kidding aside: you did an outstanding job -  however 1:24 scale is a long way from 1:87. Your assignment for this weekend is to replicate this lovely couple in HO scale and post the results.

Many thanks,
Ray