So after looking through the parts, I did attach the drop couplers and it all lines up.  I'm surprised they didn't come with those factory attached so it would work with their existing rolling stock, but I guess they have their reasons.   Thanks for the input as I ad not even opened the plastic bag of goodies. Speaking of goodies, do most of you use all the extras by gluing them in place or what?

On my Climax and Shay, I've got several of the metal detail parts that have come loose.  Today's was the cab handrail bottom attachment joint.  What's the best glue to put these back on where they attach to the plastic.  It does not appear to have ANY glue residue from the factory.  Before I just get something out and start trying, I thought I'd see what I can learn from some of you pros at attaching metal to plastic.  Thanks in advance.

I went back to all the accessory bags and yes there were actually two different sets of couplers.  One set is part of the link and pin looking part and another pair with what looks like a small drop down.  So after church I'll get them out and play with them to see what's what.  Thanks for help.  I guess I just was assuming it would hook right up to their existing stuff.  I guess I was not really thinking that the log cars, side dumps and caboose were different scale since that's all they offer for their geared locos.  Which makes me wonder how much bigger the skeleton logs and side dumps cars should be to match the 1:20.3.

I recently bought a bobber caboose to go with my Climax and my planned mine line.  However, the coupler on the caboose is about 3/8" lower than the Climax.  Same for the side dump cars and skeleton log cars.  They all match up but the Climax seems too high. What gives?  That's why I stayed with the same manufacture to avoid compatibility issues, now I have one.  Suggestions?

Chris, don't get me wrong.  I would have moved this direction but gave up trying to find info.  I commented on several posts here trying to get updates about a person who was/did do this.  Once I got the old trucks off and actually saw what George (GIRR) and others did just to separate the pickups from the motor, I said forget it and ordered the new.  Yes I took a loss on the old vs the new, but the time and frustration was just not worth it.  When I made my decision, the word was no way new metal would work on old so I was not interested in blazing new trails.  But I'm really glad you did blaze the trail for others. My only suggestion would be a few pics of important points.

I finally gave up and sold my older Climax and bought a new one because the wire around the wiring to separate trucks from motor was just too much. Oh well.

I used the LGB motors.  As I recall $30 at Reindeer Pass

As I'm sure many of you are like me, I'm running into parts issues with so called 'older' out of production engines.  I understand that there are valid reasons for not continuing to make certain models as time moves on, but parts will be needed for an extended time frame.  Since many of these Spectrum units are on the higher price side, we don't expect to just throw away the engine when some thing like trucks, motors, gears, etc. that are essential need work.  I can understand why they would stop making certain ancillary parts, but not main parts.  Just seems to me that the parts business is, which is really part of long term customer service and a profit center, is being overlooked.

Well that won't happen now that you said it.  Kind of like the birthday cake wish, you gotta keep it quiet or it won't happen. Buts feel your pain.....

I'll just take my Benford model 88000 to it and it'll fit.  Oops, I'm showing my age doing a tool time joke

I'm planning on putting it on at 1995 era blue wood burning Durango.  Not sure which version that era is but what I understood is that it will word but will have to make some minor mods.  I guess we will see.

Ok, I'll go with both you guys recommendation. You have experience and that counts. I thought I was getting a version 6 chassis which is why I ordered when I saw on sale after I missed them at Christmas.

I just ordered one of the $50 special price ones the other day.  I assumed it did, but we know what happens when you assume.  If it doesn't, it's going back for refund.

Thanks. I was assuming there was some hose/pipe connection from the tender to the engine but never seemed to catchy glimpse of it in pictures.

I guess my question was not worded right.  I did google how the steam engine works and learned a lot. The question is more a simple question.  If the water is way back in the trailing tender, how does it get all the way up to the boiler?  Is there a garden hose or what?  Obviously our models are not 100% detail and I'm not a train rivet person.  Just curious on the process.