It's a shame you three yay-hoos aren't mentioned in the will.  At least, nothing that can be mentioned here.    nyuk nyuk nyuk


The Okie

http://www.google.com/#hl=en&q=bachmann+kiddypliance&btnG=Google+Search&aq=f&oq=bachmann+kiddypliance&fp=-dx2DTn7Pl4

Gene I think you answered his question...topic is "changing tracks"


Silverhawk-

I'll assume yu're running HO gage.  I don't ue E-Z track but lots here do. Others nail track to plywood bases.  Your train will run on either track.

I've seen discussions in the HO area about connecting E-Z track to track with no attached bed.  Basically, where there's a will there's a way.

Rick

PD, you & I are perfect examples why there should be rail accomodations between towns and trolley service in towns.  I have chair user buddies in NZ, Australia, UK and all over EU that make use of the rail service for transportation.  My mother tells of riding the Santa Fe from Dewey to Bartlesville - 5 miles - for 5 cents. Evening trips back to Dewey on the MKT cost the same.  'Course this was in the 1930's.

I think the U.S. blew it not keeping up it's post war RR service.  But this is for another topic.

OkieRick

I rolled my car on 12-18-1973 and broke my neck.  I'm a C3-C7 level quad paralyzed from the armpit area down.  I don't have any hand or arm movement at all.  I have a head control with proximity sensors built into the back and each side. A chin switch allows me to change from forward to reverse, tilt and/or recline and change gears (programmed drive parameters). A movement of my head forward, left or right rolls my power chair.

I have a mouthstick I use to keyboard and anything else I am able to do with it as a "finger" - like dial and answer the phone, set the thermostat located at my height while in a power chair, etc.  It's not the best of lifestyles, I wouldn't recommend it at all.  But I can think of worse alternatives.  I live out in the country, have a RR track about 50 yards to the East, get to enjoy nature and can pizz on the ground purt' near anywhere here and not worry about the neighbors calling the police to report me for indecent exposure.

         

That's me & Mayebelle caught howling at the moon.

Farm & ranch life is nice - you never quite get everything done.  Eh, Yampa Bob?

I enjoy a new challenge - HO gage model rail roading has my attention now. Whatever I do I try to do as well as I can. It's a good crew here on this forum sharing a lot of knowledge - I soak up what I can and don't mind asking questions.  I appreciate being treated as an equal.  I don't get my nose out of joint too easily.

I thank y'all for the helpful information.  Now back to regular programming in your area.

Okie Rick

      

From A History of the American Locomotive
By John H. White



I'd heard this before, in grade school I believe, as some of those facts you can file and forget.  I wasn't sure if it was true till today.

Rick

I've looked at Tortoise and Hare and Wabbit and The DS 64.  When it comes to operation the DS64 is a bigger $$ saver - important on my project. 

I reckon my question now is will the DS64 operate a an Atlas Remote Switch Machines handily?  PD you may have answered this already - I need to know for sure.

You folks are a lot of help - I'm glad I didn't jump into buying stuff, nailing track and find out all my "stuff" wouldn't work together.  Don't quit on me yet. I'm 56 and still learning.  In '67 & '68 I switched the turnout by hand.  Wish it was still an option.

Many thanks-
Rick

hmm, wonder what's for breakfast...

Tylerf:
"I only see two switchs and their industry switches. You probably don't feel the same but I usually only go through the cost and effort or tortoises on mainline switches and use ground throws on switching areas."

The stock layout has a left and a right turnout included.  I plan on adding one #6 left turnout to the bottom of the picture to extend a length of flexrtack past the left end of the plan adding length and more track - either a basic switch yard or turn table.  I'm doing all this controlling with a Dynamis with a stick in my mouth for my fingers.  If you haven't read that I am a quad - paralyzed from the armpit area down and use a mouthstick for my fingers - I'll tell you & others again now.  I'm striving for ease of use. If I need a bank of pushbuttons and it's easier to use than a DCC control system that is what I want to know. I'm a bit disabled but try to find ways to make do.

Rusty,
Just between you and me, since your track plan's turnouts are within easy reach, why don't you consider using manual throws.

Manual - as in me reaching out to push/pull a switch - isn't an option.  I have the area of approx two keyboards that my mouthstick will cover.

jward
are you planning to build this on a plywood or other wooden base? if not, mounting a tortoise could be a problem as they are designed for screw mountaing into someting solid. if you are planning to use the foam risers from woodland scenics that come with the layout kit, you will have problems with securely mounting the toroise,"

I have one layer of 1" foam down on a 1/2" 4'x8' sheet of plywood.  I'm not using and Woodland Scenics subterranian stuff. My first track will be on the 1" foam (actually insulation board).  I'll add height by 1/2" incerments of foam.  If a hard base is needed I can always insert it into the foam between the 1/2" layers where needed or place some 1/4" plywood or fiberboard where needed.  This is my thinking anyway. Thinking often gets me in trouble.

Chris
"I second many of the thoughts here.  They need a solid mount, and they actuator is fairly short.  It will go up through 3/4 ply and roadbed but not much more."

How about if I place it on the plywood or shim it up off the plywood to reach through the 1" first layer of foam board?  I really need to know - I'm searching for answers here from you folks that may have "been there, done that."

PD,
"You could use atlas switch machines for the 3 turnouts. I use them and they are pretty good. If I had the money I would go with switch master or tortoise."..."How are you controlling the trains? With the stick?"

Donno why the boss of the club suggested Tortise unless it was I told him I wanted to attemp to be all DCC control.  Will Atlas machines "do" DCC?  I'm not against saving money at all.  I have the Dynamis DCC controller now.  The club runs it's layout(s) and test tracks with NCE Powercab wired handheld.  He said he'd eventually get me useing NCE Powercab.
Yep, I'll be poking the Dynamis aroud with a stick.

Is this the Tortise I need to be using?

                                   

I'm open to suggestions - still.  Folks just cuz I'm not "able bodied" doesn't mean you need to treat me with kid gloves.  If you see something done better another way tell me.

Many thanks-
Rick

ZombieRules asked:

"Excuse me but what decoder  would you use in the n scale bachmann spectrum usra 4 8  2 light mountain ? Huh?"


Go to the soundtraxx website and read about Steam Locomotive sounds.  Then go here, bottom of the page

http://soundtraxx.com/dsd/tsunami/index.php?p=1000.php

and listen to the Light, Meduim and Heavy Steam sounds. (click on each to open a window with a description and list of wheel arrangements and the sound control)  Listen to all of it till you hear it restart and disappear in distance.

If you know where your Steam loco was used and what it did there are other options listed.  I would think the Medium Steam TSU-1000 decoder is right for your loco if you have room for it in the tender.  It measures 1.68" x 0.68" x 0.25".  The TSU-750 is 1" x 1/2" x 0.22".

Is your loco a lettered and numbered Spectrum DCC ready unit?  What rail line it is may help you decide.

If no one else offers up information start a topic of your own about which decoder to use.

Luck-
Rick

I don't have the Tortise(s) on order yet.  I'm using Code 83 Atlas track and turnouts. The owner of my closest Train only LHS suggested Tortise as that's what they use on his MRRClub layout. My layout is going to be the Grand Valley for Woodland Scenics - I bought the track only on ebay at a very good price.



I'll be adding one turnout at the bottom of the outside right hand curve to run a line past the other end into another realm of the track to extend the layout length. The width is being enlarged by 9" pieces at the end of all four major radiuses.

It will be a DCC track when finished - hoefully DCC controlled turnouts also.

Is the item pictured and priced at the link below what I need for each turnout?

http://www.blwnscale.com/Circuitron.htm

Thanks for the help - things are getting clearer.

Rick

I'll try to word this properly...

I need to see so pics of a Tortise connected to an Atlas turnout (#6 in my case) but any photos of what the finished product looks like and how / where things are positioned and connected will help.  These will be DCC when the layout is finished.  Many thanks - it is appreciated.

Rick

Happy Rails with your sets.  I say sets cuz the one you have isn't your last...

Ask if you have questions and soak up what you read.

Okie Rick

Last year when I rediscovered the fun & joy & headache of HO modeling one of the first things I had my buddies do for me was resurect some 35 year old rolling stock by changing hook-horn couplers to Kadee knuckle couplers.  One of tool sets I had - a Dremmel and the Rotary Work Station - made drilling holes in steel bottomed cars a lot easier.  The Station is a holder for your Dremmel that positions it like a drill press.  The Dremmel is a high speed tool - I had grinding tips to make the holes - the Dremmel turns to many RPMs for a drill.  We tried the Craftsman CS3 cordless drill & Kadee bit but positioning the boxcars below the grinder & pulling the arm down was more accurate for the guys helping me.

                 

It's a nice tool for small work areas.  Check it out next trip to Lowes or Walmart.  It sells for $40 to $50.

Rick

Nice, neat good looking work RichG.  I have 4 steam locos I'd like to get that or something just like it done to.  The Tulsa/Sand Springs MRRC is coming to the town I'm closest to in June.  I'm going to take photos of your fix to show them & see what they do for a fix.


Yampa Bob sez:

"I love the flexible drawbars on my Roundhouse locos. I'm trying to find a suitable material to make my own.  I wonder if the sidewalls of an old bicycle tire might work, I have leather punches to make the holes."


Bob, you might be overlooking a flexible covering for the loco to tender wires.  At the filling station in your area check out the restroom.  In some of these old independents there still may be a condom machine on the wall - 5 for 25 cents.  These should work for what you want.

I'd tell you to ask your pharmacist but I really doubt he'd believe any part of the "these are for my steam locomotives."


Okie

I got this email ad from an ebay seller today:

"MTH HO Scale SD70M-2 & SD70ACe diesels in many, many designs including all of the Union Pacific HERITAGE Designs. These have remote activated operating couplers, a first in HO. These are due in very soon and are sure to be a sell out."

What are "remote activated operating couplers"?


Rick