If you don't already have an image management program, there is a free one that is extremely easy to use.

http://www.irfanview.com

If you download the program, you need to read my short tutorial before installing it. I will be glad to send the tutorial if you want it. Sizing and compressing an image takes about 15 seconds.

Yep, typo. I was referring to the 1/4" TRS (tip, ring, shank) phone plug, not the RCA plug.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/TRS_connector

Scroll down for other configurations and standard wiring convention.

(I edited my post)
Thanks

Jonathan,
You don't need to click the "Insert Image" button at the top. When you "Mouseover" an image in your album, several selections will appear below the image, click on the bottom text that says "Img Code". . When it "highlights", copy and paste that code into your post. The code has all the tags needed to show your picture. You might double space multiple pictures to separate them.

Also, the pictures you posted are huge, 1024 X 768 with large file sizes. You should reduce the sizes to 500 pixels wide before uploading them to Photobucket. The forum will shrink the images to 500 wide anyway, but the file sizes will still be large, and members who have dial up won't be able to load the pictures.  Just a suggestion, as a matter of courtesy to all.

Remember, if you hit the "post" button and things don't look right, you can edit your post to make corrections.  The "modify" button is at the upper right of your post.

Regards.

No, PD is the one with "hoof in mouth" syndrome. Actually, he's been trying to learn how to dance the "Hokey Pokey" and caught his lip on a hangnail.

http://kids.niehs.nih.gov/lyrics/hokey.htm

(Read the lyrics)   

One suggestion is to place a link to your album in your "signature line" at the bottom.  Maybe a brief note such as   Visit My Album   followed by the link. Then others can visit at their convenience. Notice how other members use the signature line for links.

To make the link look better you shouldn't have any spaces, or you will see a bunch of "%20" in the link. The link will look something like this:

http://sxxx.photobucket.com/albums/hhXXX/Jonathan/

Your unique account numbers will replace the "XXX", the above is just a sample. You add or edit the signature line in your profile options.

Don't apologize for your postings. Post all you like, and keep that learning curve going.    

Jeff,
I also like the shorter cars. It's been a challenge finding "bashables". I shortened a 75 footer to make a 50' replica of this one.

http://photoswest.org/cgi-bin/imager?00073806%2BMCC-3806

This is not specific to the topic, but when someone asks about installing a decoder in a certain locomotive, I always check the TCS site. Mouseover "Installation Pictures" on the left menu.  The site is rapidly expanding, currently being remodeled.

http://www.tcsdcc.com/

Several members use TCS decoders, and have reported good performance.

Regards.

Jim,
If a club is set up for 1/4" phone plugs, they should make up several short adapter cables for the visitors. 

Speaking of "short", I would greatly appreciate it if forum members would shorten those looooong urls, they are really stressing my MSIE. The problem is compounded by the fact that many of us old geezers with lousy eyes have to use large text to read the posts.

http://tinyurl.com/

Thanks.

Hi Clif,
Yep, it applies when there are more than two candidates. Kind of a silly word, but it's in Webster

Hey Ray, welcome back, almost. Yeah, the old timers are neat. My nomination was tough as I like them also.  However, the Yampa Valley Mail used the PAs and I run them on my layout.

If you're coming to Colorado, bring a boat. It has rained here every day for two weeks. Not steady, but enough to "dampen" everyone's spirits.

Matthew,
Yes, I refer members to that site frequently, great reference source.

I appreciate the links guys, however if you read the opening post, the topic of this thread is for members to nominate ONE locomotive, including a picture or a link to the picture, for the "Most Beautiful Locomotive". Winning locomotive will be judged by a plurality if there is one. It may just end in a tie, in which case they are all winners.

Lots of great looking locomotives (except for the ice cream wagon), takes some thought to pin it down to just one. There's another thread going for the "Ugliest". (hint, hint) 

Jeffery,
The link didn't work for some reason.

You might want to check this site. "TinyUrl" turns those incredibly long URLs into short ones.

http://tinyurl.com/

PD,
That's cute, "Good Humor" on rails. Did you notice someone ordering an ice cream cone? 

Thanks WGL, that is a nice feature. If you "brake" an addressed loco to a full stop without turning the throttle down, then turn the control to forward, I assume the loco resumes its original speed.

I understand you can have a loco moving forward full throttle, then throw the control to reverse. The loco will slow to a stop, then move in reverse gradually to full speed.  Any comment?

I sometimes run two short trains on the single main at one time, at "half loop" intervals.  To slow both trains down and maintain the interval is a waltz, access one loco, gradually turn the throttle down, then access the other, turn the knob quickly back up to match the speed, then turn the knob down again to the pace.

If I pause a few seconds between accesses, the second loco will automatically slow (abruptly) to the lower speed setting, but sometimes not quick enough to avoid a rear ender.  It takes a bit of practice to do it smoothly.

Try it sometime with your Zephyr. I don't think you can push address buttons fast enough to prevent a crash, especially using 4 digit addresses.   

Actually, "dynamic" braking can be achieved easily, just remove power from the motor, then short the motor terminals together. This shorts out the motor back EMF, causing a current flow in the opposite direction.

I notice the Digitrax Zephyr has a "brake" position on the direction control.   

http://www.girr.org/girr/tips/tips5/motor_tips.html

In a real diesel loco, the braking can be rheostatic if the generated electrical power is dissipated as heat in brake grid resistors or regenerative if the power is returned to the supply line, or a combination of both.

Don't you have some more decoders to install?  Or something?