Names based on puns can be humourous, risqué, or bone-dry.  I like a 'dichotomy' so to speak.  All in all, the 'name' thing denotes depth of thought, or just plain 'funny-bone' of the owner.  It all started, I think, with a witty "Gorre and Daphetid...

Rich C.

Wayne;
Nice neat work!  Doing grab irons kind of separates "the men from the boys", and yours was a beautifully done job. 
When I first got involved in HO standard-gauge, I had bought three life-like RS-11s on line.  I don't know what you had -but let's just say that I was less than happy.  I wound up giving them away.  Shortly after, I had "discovered" Atlas RS-1s, 3s and RS-11s-but not in complete form.  I got the catalogue, and ordered parts.  These parts were cobbled together, mix-and-match style.  It was a good learning process.  I created my own road decals (in black), and applied them.  All in all, it was quite a learning process-a good one.  Oh-and they all worked well.  Says a lot about Atlas. 
On your last photo, there is, behind the locomotives, a station.  It looks like you might have modified an old Atlas station.  It looks really good.

Rich C. 

Hi Roger;
Number 541, it is a 2-8-2.   Your work much being in evidence of superior craftsmanship, I just thought I'd mention it.
It looks good.  One question I have:  I notice a blue-black sheen on your steamers.  How did you get that-or is it just the photo effects?   I had been playing around with  a mix of engine black and enchantment blue; but I am just curious.

Rich C.

Roger;
Hi.  I noticed on one of your locomotives you only have one class light; a 4-8-2, in one of your photos.  Was it lost off by a 'collector' or perhaps re-possessed?

Rich C.

Harvey, Rick, et al;
Tichy  offers phosphor bronze wire in various dia.   .008,.010, .015, and others.  I have found this material to be easy to work with, solder,  and durable.  It is resilient and strong.

Rich C.

Rick;
I am somewhat surprised to find that the New Haven had any oil burners.  Where were they at?

Rich C.

I had mentioned the C&O:  When I was  stationed at Bunker Hill AFB, I went to work second job as an electrician's 'apprentice'.  one fine day, we were doing a service change at a grain elecator in Bunker Hill.  THis 'genius' I was working for used a come-along to pull the new 500MCM conductors in-with me on a 40- foot ladder guiding the whole.  Oh, and did I mention that this genius had the business end of the comealong tied to the tracks...the main line of the C&O.  If I hadn't previously known the difference between dumb  and stupid, I came away that day a learned man...

Rich C.

siderod;
\Try some of the wholesalers like Mouser. 

Rich C.

Wayne,
I use the ply atop the styrofoam.  I like the carving qualities of the foam as per terrain.  It does minimize the hassle with plaster, etc.  To me, this is good for the variations in-say-foundation exposure. This is a nice touch to a building and a lot of guys have done it. 
I have found that just cork atop foam is good as well.  Same procedure:  that blue adhesive (non-solvent) and cork.  Make sure these new guys don't attempt this with that bead board.  Styro is much better, as you probably know.

Rich C. 

Wayne;
Have you used any of the polyurethane mediums yet?
There is a product called "signboard", which is pretty dense stuff, but do-able, with good tools. 
Another one I ran across in one of the modelling mags.  This material seems to be better, more adaptable to what we would use it for. 
None of it is exactly cheap.  I had scrounged a bunch of polyurethane sample blocks from one of the signage people I do business with.  This stuff comes in thicknesses of about two inches and less, is machine-able and finishes up nicely.  I am going to look for this other product, probably at maybe Dick Blick, or AC Moore.
What have been your thoughts?
RIch C.

There is also a product I saw in "Model Railroad Hobbyist" that, I think, is an ink-based pigment compound.  Since Floquil's demise, I have been looking around for a replacement that is air-brush as well as dummy friendly.  At any rate, the name "Iwata" seems to surface in my mind.  What are your thoughts?
Rich C.

Len;
I do not use foam as the top-I have another approach I had decided to try.  I use 1/4" underlayment hardwood ply.  I use this for a couple of reasons; first it is easier to install tortoise machines under, as well as any other type of control system, such as mechanical (hand).  Also, when I glue down the cork, as I said, I use a piece of extruded aluminum that, once I glue the cork down, I lay this atop the cork, and run screws through it-lightly- to the ply.  This keeps the track plumb and flush.  So far, so good; no wiggle-wobble-waddle.
RIch C. 

Len and Hunt;
I have been using the blue adhesive with good results.  Also, I use a length of moulded aluminum as a straight reference atop the cork, and temporarily screw it down lightly; just enough to conform the cork to a near-perfect flat-ness.  I have found that being really fussy with this pays off in big dividends, so I use it whenever I can, particularly on turnouts.  This piece of aluminum is actually a part of a cutting system; I found it on-line at Roeckler tools.

Rich C.

Broken Rail;
I had posted earlier with regards to the logistics faced by a company such as Bachmann.  I can accept that what they do for the most part, is a generalization of a specific wheel arrangement.  If I want to pursue a specific product, I will use the otherwise fine-running model that is close.  It is when they start getting prototype specific that prices will, like brass, become high, or they will just discontinue this endeavor.   
Before Proto/Lifelike got picked up by Walthers-and they might still-they had a line of foam containers, such as coolers.  I would not be too surprised to discover that Bachmann was involved with the same type of approach.  We do what we must in order to accomplish what we love.
RIch C.

Wayne;
Some time ago, I read about the use of Baker-or Mantua-couplers (yes; some people still use them).  The writer was commenting on how unrealistic they appeared; however, I think it is one of those things-like subway graffiti at 125th street:  After a while, you don't even see them anymore.  I guess the simplicity and reliability of them far outweighs the cosmetic upside, for some people. 
I am installing Caboose throws on turnouts that are close to the edge.   I want to try and set up their stands-these can rotate round 90 degrees (approx.).  I figure that if they are far enough into the background (but not too far...), I can use them in conjunction with my Tortoise machines. 

Rich. C