Thanks you.  I sorta thought you would be the one to have this information. I will check for driver wobble.
Are the TT drivers  connected to the side rods. It would be convenient if there are not. Guess i will find out.

I really love my DM&IR 2-10-2 .Runs smooth,looks great ,but the traction is lower than what other Bachann 2-10-2s. I seen to remember on some forums that other had  added a thin piece of tape under the bearing blocks to lower the wheels with TTs.

I could not find any info by googling this.does anybody remember  the details?      

Side note:I file off the trailing truck detail and added delta side frames to match the DM&IR prototype.

I agree when using my ( I run DC)Tech 2 with build in pulse my dual mode DCC Y3s would act strange and give me problems, when I switched the pulse off or use a non pulse throttle the problems when away. I only use non/turned off  pulse controllers now.

Too me the quality of newer N scale locos is that pulse is unneeded to get great slow speed running

Just my thoughts RGW 

Thanks you Bachmann for your great spectrum tenders and for selling them by themselves. I just got another one to fix up a steamer and I know many repair older and some newer steam with your tenders to greatly improve there running


RGW

I have 3 Dual mode decoder locos and I run DC maybe some day I will switch but not now.  two are Walthers Y3s with sound, no decoder= no sound They do not start untill about 7 volts so no double heading with other engines ( only each other,but what great sound  pulling a grade)   And I have a Bachman USRA lite 2-10-2 Dual mode, runs great I will remove the decoder only if it has problems.

The one thing I dislike about DCC or dual mode sound engines  with build in momentum is that when the slightest lose of contact the engine stops dead and has to restart.
On DC at least you can not remove this fearture on the walthers 2-8-8-2 Y3s

Bachmann is there any plans to update your 0-6-0. The newest version runs good but could us a update to your spectrum line. Add a spectrum all wheel contact tender and improve the cosmetic
appearance of it and I think you would have a hit. I have seen some really great kitbashes with this engine so it has great potential.



RGW  Bachmann steam owned spectrum (non spectrum 0-6-0)  2-8-0-  4-8-4 J-  4-8-2- 2-10-2-  2-6-6-2   and spectrum tenders added to kato mikes   ( all great)

can you send a photo?

I use a larger radius track going in and out to form a curve easement. This helps the engine negotiate the curves better.  

on my layout I have 19'  radius curves  but i use  one 28' track on each end of the curve going into and out. so if you need 6 tracks to make a 90 degree curve
I would use a 28,19,19,19,19,28 ' radius tracks . This example is on my layout yours will be different,but it may give you a idea,however  I do not know the degree spec on Bachmann track.
May be others could give you this info.

Bachmann will the sound decoder in your new Berkshire 2-8-4 be available  as a separate part and if so can a person ( easily,no cutting and soldering)  replace the dual mode decoder in Bachmann's recent steam releases with this new decoder?

Thanks RGW

just a side note. many years ago I tried using charcoal ash from my grill as ballast on a branch line. when it dried it has turned white even the rail and into the ground foam.When I added dirt and ground foam over the top,this too turned white when dry.I had to paint it too seal it then re ballast ect..

must have been some chemical reaction between the ash, white glue and alcohol that I spray be for adding glue/water.

I agree with skipgear I had the older J. Ran bad and it seemed to be a bit over scale ( it been many year ago so I might be wrong) I have 2 new release Js and think there are great. I think you might be disappointed with the results  with the older version.

One of my New Js is no longer DCC ready The wires between the tender and engine went bad because I removed the shell too many time when I was painting it into Milw  Hiawatha colors 
I soldered my own wires ( only 2 ) between the tender and engine using the two printed circuit boards.( Very,Very frustrating, the contacts are really close to each other)  I burned out the head light and now after a year I have a short in the wires.I Will bypass the circuit boards .

So maybe it could be a new 2006 version if some one had a wiring problem.

Bachmann Announced it will be releasing an N scale 2-8-4 with DCC & sound. My question is will they offer this on a new release of the J and will the dual mode decoder with sound
be available separately to add to there existing newer released engines. 

      Bachmann 
1st )   With the planed release of your N scale 2-8-4 with sound could not this be added to your great running N scale  N&W J 4-8-4. Hopefully in a some months you can record the sound of the real thing running if you do not already have it. 

2nd)   Could you sell the dual mode DD & sound decoder separately , to be added to already released engines. The J has a speaker hole already in the tender floor.

I have 2 Js and a 2-10-2 that run beautiful but need a dual mode decoder with sound .( I run DC )

I just got the Bachmann   DM&IR 2-10-2 not only does it look great it run great right out of the box with not break in it ran smooth with good slow speed and after a little running
it only improved.

Great engine Bachmann

Has anybody added a delta trailing truck to one of these engines?

I have had the same problem with needing  unlettered steam. What I have done. 


1) converted Bachmann J to Milwaukee road. ( its my railroad) Used comet cleaner with a piece of wood to rub off the N&W from tender side,with care did not remove the paint stripe , then re lettered

2) remove the Santa Fe from tender side and cab from a Y3 2-8-8-2 left s sorta shiny spot but is easy to cover with weathering I now need to do a second Y3 just left the silver numbers will match new lettering. (one  advantage of a freelance line)

I was given this suggestion on lettering removal.   water & comet cleaner put on lettering then rub with wooden stick, wipe off and check often to see that the surface or under paint is not damaged  repeat as necessary.However it seems to leave a shiny buff spot on bare plastic. I would suggest you remove the shell to do this.