Quote from: engineerkyle on March 13, 2008, 09:16:16 PM

Quote from: Paul M. on March 13, 2008, 07:36:43 PM
They look good! How much do you expect them to sell for?

ooh what a question... The end of the auction always seems to have some surprises. A few times the price of a model (that was not really a favorite of mine) really skyrocketed. I was only disappointed twice. I've sold 32 items and counting.

PM me if interested.

I would like to poll the group regarded how personal I should build my structures that I intend to offer. What I mean is this. Should I leave off all the signs that put the piece in a particular time or place, letting the winning bidder finish it off? I didn't used to. I almost can't leave the final details off. Thats the fun part, and yet, a customer made that very suggestion.

Advice?

How about as an option for the winning bidder?

Quote from: RAM on February 28, 2008, 01:24:40 PM
Ok I remember now.  It was dress up to look like a T&P locomotive.  Then it was traded and replaced by a GG1.   A GG1 in Texas!

There is a GG1 at the Age of Steam Museum at Fair Park in Dallas.  That puppy looks pretty large in pictures, but in person, its HUGE!
Age of Steam:http://www.dallasrailwaymuseum.com/

Mike

Quote from: SteamGene on February 24, 2008, 08:47:42 AM
Right now the wire runs through the middle of the fence.  That takes care of digging under.  But especially when she hears kids she runs up, jumps about half way and then uses her paws to walk/climb over the fence.  That's why I think another wire at the top of the fence might prevent her making that climb.
We are going to get new fence of some sort - the chain link is more than 30 years old and really needs replacement.   I'm trying to find a quick fence to get her off the chain. 
Which comes back to the electrical question.  Will making a "passing siding" on an electrical wire short out the system?
Gene

No.  Go ahead and use your extra  wire in parallel with the lower wire.  Your system doesn't require that the wire be a specified length, so it isn't using transmitted radio signals, its just creating an impedance field similar to the rfid antishoplifting tags at Walleyworld.

Mike

Quote from: xxxtmanxxx on February 21, 2008, 12:37:30 AM
I am planning a very small layout; I need a turntabld 5" dia. at the most (layout is on a  43x10" shelf) and there seem to be few if any built-ups/kits for a length this small.

Scratchbuilding is a last resort, if anyone could point me to a small commercially made turntable for N, that would be great. I am not an experienced modeller, and don't want to take on anything too complicated.

Peco makes one that is just under 6" dia. as seen here:
http://www.hobbymasters.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=3156

There is at least one currently on "the auction site".

Mike

Quote from: Guilford Guy on February 09, 2008, 12:36:41 AM
http://photos.nerail.org/photos/2008/02/08/2008020821513119329.jpg
What be this beast?

This isn't quite what You wanted, but the best I could do:
Forbidden
You don't have permission to access /photos/2008/02/08/2008020821513119329.jpg on this server.

Mike

Quote from: sour rails on February 08, 2008, 11:55:53 AM
     Hey all, I was just wondering the other day.  If I have a large scale layout that depicted real size, what would N or Z scale be on the large scale layout?I don't know all the scale dimentions, otherwise, I would try to calculate it myself.
Thanks for any info.

Z scale=1/220:1
N scale=1/160:1 (American)
N scale=1/150:1 (Japanese)
HO scale=1/87:1
S scale=1/64:1
O scale=1/48:1
Large scale varies from 1/29:1 to 1/32:1 or thereabouts...

Have fun!
Mike

Quote from: r0bert on February 04, 2008, 01:49:48 PM
remove the capacitor

Thanks for the great pics and the clean installation!  How does it run?

Mike

"I'm a beginner in model rr.  I want to build a small N layout using EZ track.  I would like to go DCC instead of conventional wiring.

I understand how DCC works but I cannot find much documentation on getting N EZ track turnouts to work with DCC? 

If anyone can help, I would appreciate any and all comments."

By "work", do you mean operating the solenoid that changes the point routing, or the wiring for operation?

Digitrax, NCE, and I'm sure others, have stationary decoders that will operate solenoid or slow motion turnout motors.
As far as wiring for operation, Google and the various online articles and such can be your friends.

Mike

Quote from: kevin2083 on December 17, 2007, 09:43:35 PM
DCC ready means that the motor is electrically isolated from the frame, making it easier to install a decoder. The 2-8-0 has a split frame mechanism and some room for a SMALL decoder in the tender.

enjoy them trains!

I'd think installing the decoder into the engine would be a better choice for the long run.  You'd have no problems with the wiring to the engine causing problems like those that seem to crop up with LL 0-8-0.
Two illustrated guides:
http://mvns.railfan.net/dcc //bach280_dec_inst.pdf
http://www.tcsdcc.com/decoderpics/Bachman%20N%20scale%202-8-0/bachman_n_scale_2_8_0.htm

The Digitrax DZ123 will fit if you trim the heatshrink way back, but if I were to do another one, I'd look at the TCS M1 or one of the other really small decoders.

Mike

Quote from: Niterider on December 05, 2007, 11:51:34 PM
Thanks Kevin, I see that the frame is seperated and the motor is isolated. I know that many brands that say DCC ready means that they have the 8 pin or 9 pin NMRA plug installed and ready to go with a dummy plug installed that makes it DC until the decoder is installed. I was hoping that Bachmann had that already done for us.

NMRA plugs are few and far between in n scale.  As Kevin wrote, it just means that the motor is isolated from the frame.  The only engines that are truly DCC "ready" are those  that are "plug & play", where you replace a factory light board with a decoder that is specifically built for that engine.

There are still a few engines that are a hassle to install decoders, but if you have even moderate manual skills, are able to solder small gauge wires and have a good degree of common sense, you'll do just fine with most engines.  There are also quite a few installation guides for various engines on the web.

Mike

Sounds like you have a real oldie there!  You might not be aware of it, but you posted your inquiry in the N-scale forum.

HAGD!
Mike

Quote from: r.cprmier on November 27, 2007, 08:31:37 AM
I share Sheldon's sentiments-and I am sure Gene will chime in with just as adamant posture as we two have.
In this country, there are standards based largely upon what you have been exposed to in the school system.  These are inclusive of math, proper spelling, English, and grammar. 
I am a business owner.  Proper communication of ideas is imperative in my business.  If I am interviewing a job applicant, and they do not annunciate well, properly, spell well, or grammaticize correctly, I cannot use them-period!!  I have seen too many potentially disastrous mistakes in this trade based on the aforementioned to think otherwise.  I carry that into all other aspects of life, as I want to be properly understood, as well as understand the intentions of other ideas.

On a forum, it is also neccessary to have and maintain relatively high standards in said areas.  I believe it is not too much to ask of contributors to spell properly, grammatiscize properly, so as not to be cunfusing.  If you do not know how to understand English, learn!  It is the spoken language in this country.  LIkewise grammar and spelling.  I for one, have no truck with people who do not maintain those standards.  If I sound like an SOB, that is just tough!
THat is the way it is.

RIch

Poor spelling skills are a sticky point with me also, however we are reaping the fruit of our educational system's shortcomings.  I would suggest that since this is a hobby forum, and not something that is critical, that we cut people a little slack.
For those of us that feel inadequate in spelling, Google's toolbar has a dictionary that will do spellcheck for you.  Although not perfect, it's pretty good.  You might even want to try it on this thread!

Mike

Quote from: Jonathan MacCormack on November 22, 2007, 08:27:11 PM
Try Yellow Pages and look under "Hardware Stores" and call them for product availability. Try Loews, Target, Home Depot, or using your head to think of imaginative sources and location of the product.

Seems easy to me.

But then, maybe I assume too much!


Jonathan

Don't forget your local Ace Hardware!  These people carry an astounding variety of goodies that will only get you a blank stare at the "big box" places.

Mike

I don't understand what curved track you're using, but with the 19" radius, I think you should have 8 pieces on each end of the oval.  Picture?

Mike

[Edit] Guess who isn't a math genius... 
However, I do remember a circle having about 360°.

Quote from: usher42 on November 14, 2007, 08:54:52 PM
What is bachmann terminal wire gauge

Pretty small...
As a guess, I'd say 20-22 ga.

Mike