I hope they were plans for an EBT engine!

Ned; handlaying track is not all that difficult but it does require some care. For On30 you can use HO track gauges, NMRA gauge and spikes to do regular track. Switches need to be spiked down with care, keeping flangeway clearances in mind. Remember that although track is HO gauge, all clearances, platforms, etc., need to be upsized for On30.

I don't think that mixing switch kits with sectional track is the way to go.

You will find that handlaying track is enjoyable and much more economical than sectional track. There are publications out there that will take you through all the steps.

I am perplexed to think that counting posts is an issue for some people.

MR ran a loco building article some years ago where the cab roof was done in red oxide. That article suggested a 50-50 mix of Floquil Box Car Red and Caboose red.

I am sure that there was lots of variation and I think often modellers use the color that "looks" right.

There are all sorts of valve gear - Stephenson, Walshaerts, Baker and Southern to name a few. The forney probably has Stephenson valve gear where most of the moving parts are inside the frame. All you see is the exterior rod to the sliding valve inside the steam chest.

You can also try styrofoam insulation, the blue or pink stuff they sell at lumber yards, not the white beady stuff. A sheet of it may be a lot cheaper than foamcore.

There are lots of books out there that deal with scenery and I believe there are also some good scenery DVDs on the market.

From the picture I can see that the Disney railroad is a "Mickey Mouse" operation!

Seriously, that engine would be at home with the Bachmann On30 stuff.

Dear mister Bachmann - I am also operating on Verizon FIOS at a speed of 2 Gig and the website is SLOW to load. I waited at least a minute to get the site to open this morning.

The validity of a model is not the question. Narrow gauge railways were built on the cheap to maximize profits and it is possible that a line may have ordered a small articulated engine. It all depends on context.

Bachmann has been wise in limiting their On30 line to small cars and engines that are based on a prototype.  Even the EBT engines that I would love to see produced would be on the large size when running on On30 track.

I have modified several ON3 cars to On30 and I was disappointed after the conversion because they look out of place with the Bachmann equipment.

Having sold a bunch of stuff recently on Ebay I became familiar with rates for US Mail and UPS. It is amazing how much postage can cost on an item.

I see people selling small items like trucks, valve gear, brass parts and things like that and use Priority shipping when the stuff could go regular first class.

If you watch infomercials, they often tell you that you get a second item "free-just pay postage." it's obvious that they make money on the shipping.

Again the advice for Ebay is to research an item and come up with the top price you'll offer and include shipping in that figure.

For many years Mantua, and later Mantua/Tyco, made tank engines. I believe that they are again in production thanks to Model Power. I suggest you check the Model Power website to see what they have reissued and availability.

There was also an 0-6-0 tank engine that was made by MDC/Roundhouse.

You can order directly from NWSL. I believe they have an online catalog.

It has been my experience that to lower On3 cars to HO coupler height you need to use wheels smaller than 24 inch diameter. Unfortunately you have to experiment. Keep in mind that wheels gauged to 16.5 mm (HO standard) might hit the inner truss rods or other details on tight turns.

The suggestion to mount the HO coupler on the bottom of the Grandt Line coupler might be the best solution. I tried it on a Grandt car. It works but sure looks funny.

Didn't the Chinese railways buy a mess of American hoppers a couple of decades ago? I believe the old P&LE sold hoppers to China. Some of these may still be in service. I remember reading that they were overhauled to Chinese specs.

Atlas most definitely makes plastic rail joiners. Alternately, if you have a small hobby saw or dremel tool, you can just cut a slot in the rail. I have done this in the past and then I fill the slot with a piece of  thin plastic and some epoxy. A few licks of an emery board and you have an insulated joint.

It is not even necessary to buy plastic - I use the stuff that comes with new shirts.

The last post reminds me of the tombstone in a (I think) Dodge City cemetery -  here lies Lester Moore
                   killed with four shots from a forty four.
                   no Less, no more.

As for Ebay I was bidding on a Grandt kit to convcert a Bachmann mogul to On3. The person who outbid me is paying more than list price plus pa$4.50 for postage - when the parts could be shipped in a padded envelope for about a buck. I calculated my highest offer based on what I would pay Grandt to ship the parts to me. Someone didn't do their homework.