Jeff;
As I said, it would record the sum of both motors, thus it "sees" the loads as one single one.  The other way, not too too involved, would be to set up a test track with a wattmeter, a simulated load that would be the same for both motors, and check each one separately, thus recording the indivual values.
Rich

As  modeler, I have as yet to prototypically replicate any engine.  I once took twl Bachmann 2-10-2 Santa Fe types, and made them into my own concoction somewhat resembling New Haven prototypes.  I like to make them look as if they were working on MY railroad, so I sort of re-engineer as I see fit.  It is prety much fun.
Rich

Become a member on Kadee's web site.   Len's information is good, and Kadee's info will be a good addition.
Rich

Rich;
ROFL...
Rich

There is a pretty definitive line that would separate those who build and operate model railroads, whether based upon a "prototype' or not, and the "scale rule richards" who seem to have too much time on their hands...
Rich  (no connection, please)
Rich

JIM;
speed would obviously be a calibration of its own.  Depending upon gearing, and to some extent motor design (as was previously mentioned here), two motors on the track would be considered parallel loads, and as such, one would not  "control" the speed of the other.  A wattmeter would indicate the sum wattage consumed by both engines at the same time.  An ammeter would do likewise with ampacity.
DOn; I will be the first guy to tell you that I am not that familiar with the newer motors, but they would, to my knowledge, operate in the above manner.  I have some reading to do about the particuliarities of the newer mechanisms.
Rich

Multimeters are a very useful tool in this hobby.  Out of experience in my trade (electrician), I have used one a lot, and got pretty comfortable with it.  Do, however, make sure you read the literature that would come with a new unit, and use it as it was designed to be used.  Common sense and paying attention go a long way here.
Rich

Groucho and Monroe-what a hoot!

Probably the most reliable method is to use an ammeter or wattmeter to monitor the watts o/r amperes consumed.
A standard medium load HO engine should consume in the neighborhood of 1-2 amps.  Most good transformers have overload protection in the form of thermal overloads.  I know that MRC power packs generally do.  As was mentioned also earlier, if you are running two engines in unison, they will "mimmick" each other as the result of the electricval characteristics.  There are several forms of multi-trin operation.  Why not look into these and try one?
Rich

Quote from: ray schofield on February 29, 2012, 11:10:53 PM
Tom the headlight is burned out
[Ray;
are you sure?  I have two 2-6-6-2s, have converted them to Tsunami boards and to date, haven't changed the lighting on them.  my assumption was that [they] are LEDs-they sure act like LEDs-Rich]

Quote from: Doneldon on March 18, 2012, 05:46:41 PM
NewCon-

Woody is right! Many modelers tighten one truck screw to the point that
the truck only swivels but leave the other truck screw loose enough that
the truck can rock a little.
                                          -- D

[Heartily seconded!
Rich)

Flex-track is the best thing to come along since spaghetti (no connection-pardon the pun).  As earlier mentioned, it can be laid pretty much the way you want it to run without considering the limitations normally imposed by ridgid sectional track.

For my money, if I were starting over, I would go with code 83 or even 70.  I kick myself for NOT going with 70, but that was my choice.  Flex track-particularly the really flexible track, is very user-friendly.   For cutting,  I suggest using either a good exacto saw, or better yet, a moto-tool such as Dremel, to accomplish this task.  Read the instructions, and do wear safety glasses!

In terms of laying the track; curves and transitions can be accomplished that will suit your desires , and securing it to a roadbed is quick and smooth.  Use common sense both when planning and installing it, and it will be relatively trouble free.
Rich

Good trackwork is absolutely neccessary for trouble-free running of trains.  If you take pains to accomplish this, it will be an investment that will pay off greatly.  Don't and you will find yourself pulling your hair out in frustration, and possibly giving a whole new meaning to the term "kit bashing".
As for plastic wheels:  Metal wheels have proven to be a much better alternative, as plastic wheels tend to pick up crud, dust, etc that can accumulate on rails.  I have found them to be subject to axle warping, cracking, and other forms of deterioration, and avoid them like the plague!
.  The most common-RP-25 wheels are readily available from a lot of kit manufacturers, as well as companies more or less dedicated to parts, such as Kadee and Reboxx.  Even if it takes a bit longer because of finances, good track, wheels, and also couplers, are good investments.  Have fun.
Rich

At the Springfield show this past Jan, there was a table with a lot of resin castings of steel mfgg equipment such as crucibles, bearings, framework, etc in plastic bags.  This stuff was dynamite!  If anyone remembers who the mfgr was, could you please tell me?  Thank you.
Ricih

If need be; any decoder can be wired to any locomotive, given that the values are all compatible (track voltage, etc).  Decoders can be hooked up wire for wire to at least the motor tender and head lights, etc;  it just means taking stuff apart to get to the leads, identifying them, and splicing wire for wire together; you just have to be careful and take your time doing it. 
Rich