Jonathan;
Why not construct your own doghouse by scratchbuilding?  You see, guys; this is where getting comfortable with scratchbuilding can get you out of a jam fairly easily.  There are several good references as well as some back-issues in several modelling mags.
Rich

This engine is an ideal size for a lot of layouts; BAchmann did a very good job in it's production; I just have one thought:
The layout I'm going to construct will operate prototypically in the capacity of a bridge road, running from Portsmouth, New Hampshire, to Troy, New York; Pretty much in the manner of the B&M.
It will be focused upon freight operations with some pax activity.  I have two of these engines, plus a mantua 2-6-6-2.  Would it have been feasible for a road to have operated them, and what type of freight makeup would [it] have hauled?
Rich

Last year, I got really ambitious and daring, and decided to build my twelve year-old Korber roundhouse.  This beauty came with the complimentary spare stalls, so I incorporated them into the mix. 
never being one to leave well enough alone, I just HAD to modify the kit with a humongous clestory running the complete radii.  Not only was that on the aqenda, but I had a really neat menage of Don Tichy's industrial wondows, so I gave them a find and designed them into it.
I don't know about the other roundhouses on the market, but this jewel is a monster!  Having the room to accommodate it is a blessing.   I "propped" up the 2X6 module to be used and temped out the buildings, including said RH.  It does seem to have some promise, so let's see what happens when it all goes together.
Rich

I've had the same problem with one of my 2-8-0's, so carry on; I'll take all the help I can get.
Rich

Isn't there something in the by-laws about this kind of stuff?  If I want to be bombarded with ads, I will watch television.
Rich

Wow...Just like my grandson sitting on Santa's lap...  I just got my chuckle for the day reading this thread.   Say, do any of you "old men" remember Jordan Marsh in Boston?  They used to have a humongous layout set up in an area called "Santa's Toyland".  My mother and I would go into Boston by train and off to Jordan's we'd go!  She's drop me off in in toyland and that's where I'd stay...
Rich

Hey guys;
In the words of Yogi, "Patience is a virgin!"
Rich

My 2.5 cents worth:
I have several articulated-all 2-6-6-2s-as well as that 2-6-6-6, which I won't run, and consider the overhang on curves generally unsightly.   The layout I am planning will unfortunately have some tighter radii that I would generally be comfortable with, but cest live.  I am going to get around a lot of the hassle by coordinating curves into tunnels.  The tunnels will have back access-or the equivilent (I am no fool) for peace of mind,  My "experience" tells me that if you are particularly fastidious about your trackwork-which you really should be anyways-that you shouldn't really have any problems-and I cannot stress the word "fastidious" enough.  Consider trackwork as an investment.  The better it is, the better off you will be.
Rich

Hi All;
It is hot this afternoon, so I tok five from the garden and wanted to find out some things here.
I am in the process of re-building my layout, and have been quietly gathering and researching parts for use on it.  Upon perusing "Central Valley"'s site some time ago, I had discovered" Jack Parker's tie-strips.  After looking it over, I had decided to send for a box as well as #7 turnout strips.  At the same time, I had purchased a bundle of code 83 rail.  Now, I have decided to use code 70-instead of the 83.  I am waiting for the shipment to come in.  Has anyone used this combination of parts?  The strip, turnout strips and parts included with same look extremely good.  I also stumbled across a sub-floor material used under the finished wood flooring that is black, sort of a soft plastic composition, and about 1/8" thick.  I am wondering if anyone has ever used this as roadbed.  THis stuff in theory, especially lends itself to yard trackage really well.
I want this layout to bw the culmination of my experience, as well as being dependable, good-looking track.  I would appreciate hearing from anyone who has gone this route.
Rich 

Slightly off topic, but I made a "pit stop" today at Essex, Ct.  I do this peroidically to see "what's new" and was surprised to find the 2-8-0 #97 on the entrance (dead) track.  That engine had the smoothest running gear I ever saw-like a woman!
They had an engine I hadn't seen before:  a 2-8-2 #3025 in "NEW HAVEN" livery.  For a moment I thought it was the old "J-3" mike they had saved for ice-melting service, but was informed that it wasn't.  She looks really good though.  it was the arched cab window that fooled me.
In its day, that little depot must have been quite a place!
SOmething else I noticed was the positioning (installation) of the power reverse on the engines-up through  the walkway and on the mike, it actually sat atop the walkway.  Wow!  learn something new every day!
Rich

You can find stranded THHN, THWN,  THNN, etc in rolls at any electrical supply house or most home improvement houses.  Stranded wire is the way to go, as it is less subject to breakage due to its flexibility.  It can be soldered, pressure connected (screw terminals) or simply using standard connectors like wirenuts. 
On my layout, #12 is the standard used on buss while #18 stranded is used as pigtails to track.  You can use standard wirenuts, suitcase connectors, etc. to make connections
Your wiring standards should also have a colour code for different functions, espeially if you are using the ame size for more than one function.
Keep your wiring systematic-and NEAT!  Also, draw up a good wiring diagram of what you have-and keep track of changes you make, no matter how insignificant they are.
There is a lot of debate as to how heavy the busses should be.  I prefer #12; I am comfortable with that size.  In the industry (of which I am a part), #12 THHN is generally good for 20 amps, rated  at 600 volts.

Has anyone here ever used the Tomar pickups that are (usually) installed on tenders?  Hoiw much trouble are they to install?  How easy are they to find?  Do they really do the job intended?
Rich

Error note: 
My post here was posted in error; I meant it to go somewhere else.  Sorry 'bout that.
THis little engine is a gem!  Apparently that is a muchly shared opinion; it really fills the bill for a lot of modellers, this one included.  I think this little engine is one of the best efforts to come along in a while.  Kudos, hockets and hemiolas to Bachmann.
Rich

In the past, I have acquired a lot of engines, mostly fairly large steam, including three articulated (2-6-6-2).  This next (and hopefully final) layout I am starting to build, will, in concept, be only a bridge line, the trains will be shorter, feeding industries alongline there.  The main line will have one or two drag freights and trains similar to B&M's "wildcat" route; the rest will be much simpler; as I have found that as simple as you cam keep it and still be happy can be key to an enjoyable passtime.
RIch

Ray;
I can remember getting a start in this hobby in around 1955.  I thought that Varney, Athearn, and (gasp!!) Hobbyline were great brands!  mantua came with those "Baker' type couplers and I nixed them.  The trouble I had was coupling and uncoupling those scale (and I do mean scale) couples that came with the abovementioned kits..
My life turned disastrous around age thirteen, but somewhat recovered three years later.  I will say that, in my case, it wasn't girls or cars, but that Fender Stratocaster (1961) I managed to acquire through the many attic-cleanings, -shoveled walks, etc.  As a result of developing talent to a marketable state, a lucky break into a good "greaseball" band- the cars-and girls (JUST in that order) came along soon after. 
A stint in the Air Force came and went, marriage, and divorce came and went, then the railroad bug bit-hard.  Here I am, present day, and sort of retired, enjhoying both life, and a level of modelling that I nevr dreamed possible!  WHat a great time to be in this hobby!
Rich