Read the info in the post "Williams 773" The Diode solution works great! I have done it with my Williams' Steamers with wonderful results. Very simple to make and wire into the motor circuit. The scale Hudson has the motor control board within the tender. You add your diodes there at one of the two wires leaving the board which connect to the motor via the "tether". Look at the Dallee circuit that Joe Satnik has put a link on to his part of the 773 post

                                Hope this helps...671

Hi Joe,

         The bridge rectifier that I have used is available from Radio Shack. It is Eight ( amp rated. It looks like a small table top with four legs, one in each corner.
         I have found that it uses the least amount of space. I would then solder two additional single six amp as per the Dallee wire diagram. You can make a very compack package out of the entire unit. Mount the 6 amp diodes between the "table" legs and heat shrink as needed.
         I believe ( if my memory serves me right) that the 2056 semi-scale Hudson had a "well" below the circuit board that the 8 amp table style bridge rectifier fit perfectly into. Table top down ...legs up.
         The 8 amp was easier to work with shape wise.

                                   Hope this helps...671

Hi All,
       671 here. I have used the style of voltage reduction that Joe Satnik has eluded to. ( Hi Joe)
       I found an excellent diagram on the Dallee Electronics web site. Go to "Product Instructions & Technical Index" second from the bottom of that list is "Motor Diode Drop Circuit". This diagram shows one bridge rectifier along with one rectifier diode wired into the motor power wire.
       I used this exact method with one additional rectifier diode. All of my Williams By Bachmann Steamers...773, 2056, 671 and my Berkshire are wired this way. I have 275 watt ZW running my main loop. These locos start and stop smoothly, smoke well, my passenger cars have better lighting, whistle more consistant due to the fact that now the electric motor is receiving approx three less volts than it did with the original wiring so my track voltage is higher to achieve the same speed
       In conclusion... They run better and perform smoother than ever before. The smoke units perform better too. They now consistently receive full 7.9 volts. I have been using Crest smoke fluid. (Trainland $5 per bottle) Cheaper per ounce than LGB but work as well. Smooth smoke ejection, no pop-pop-pop splash, like other brands.
                             Hope this helps...671

Hi M1FredQ,

             671 here. If you are looking to purchase "a few NW-2 Switchers" contact Trainlworld or Trainland on line. They have several "On Sale". I just purchased, on Saturday, the New York Central "Cigar Band" NW-2 Switcher. It is  very nice! Good details, handrails etc. It is a smooth runner and a strong puller. The price was excellent...$ 99.99. Check them out. They also have Sharks on sale ( $199.99 ABA), semi scale Madison cars ( I bought the Northern Pacific four car set $99.99...Nice!), EP-5s and an SD 45 Conrail @ $ 99.99.
              Check them out, good deals.

                                        Hope this helps...671

Hi 6200,

          Just wondering about the outcome with your new 6200, S2. Did you solve the problem? If so, what was it? Electrical, mechanical?

                                                 671

6200,

       671 again. One other thought, try turning the flywheel on the motor by hand. Check for any binding or rough operation. The can drive motor could be loose. You need to remove the shell to check mounting screws. Proper gear meshing will not occur with loose mounting screws.

                                         Hope this helps...671

Hi 6200,
           671 here. The 6200 is the same loco as the 671 which I own. My advise is to remove the boiler shell from the chassis ( three screws, 1 short under the front truck and 2 long screws under the rear truck ) lay the loco on its' side, then  lift the boiler off carefully. The smokunit and head lamp wires up front are hot glued to the inside of the boiler not allowing for much freedom of movement.
            To remove the electrical plugs for the lamp and smoker from the board, tiny tabs locking the the plugs into the socket must be released. I do this by wedging tooth picks between the plug and socket  and then remove the plug.
            Now the boiler is completely free from the chassis. Check all connections to and from the main electrical electrical board servicing the can motor. You may find a plug to the motor not fully engage. Test loco chassis and see if it now runs. If not, try moving the motor plug from the socket that it is in. to the unoccupied second motor socket. The electronic E-unit is designed to handle two motors. You may have a defective relay on the currently used side of the board.

                                             Hope this helps...671

Hi Jeff,
         
         I just read  a earlier post by EIS "Williams Berkshire Lionel CW 80 problem" 

                             This may be an answer...671

Hi Jeff,

         671 here.  If you have a friend with a layout with a larger wattage transformer, try your loco on their layout.
         If you live near a hobby store, they may be able to run the loco on their layout as a test.

                                             671

Hi Jeff,

         671 here again. If you have a "Tether" wire connection between the loco and its' tender, make sure that there is enough slack on that wire tether ( ususally creating an upward loop in the wire solves the problem.) If not the motion between the loco and tender can cause a poor connection.
         The tether from the loco to the tender indicates to me that the reverser board is located within the tender.
          I have the 773 WbyB Hudson. It has a tether between loco and tender. I experienced similar problems including a damaging derailment due to lack of free play in the tether connection. I was able to pull extra cable from the loco and create an upward loop in the cable. This solved all challenges with my loco tender combo.

                                   Hope this helps...671

Hi Jeff,

         671 here. I would first check the reverse unit itself for poor or loose connections. The reverser board should have two output jacks built into the board. On single motor locos, only one of the output jacks is plugged into. If you trace that wire harness it goes to powering the electric motor. Right next to that occupied plug receptacle is an unoccupied receptacle. try moving the motor plug from the factory installed jack to the unoccupied jack. Each jack is wired to the small sugar cube sized relay. You may find that this solves your problem if no loose or poor connections are the fault.
          The reverser board is a universal design that Williams uses in their locos, either single or dual motor. If you had a dual motor diesel, both jacks would be used. One jack for each motor.

                                             Hope this helps...671

LAN_MAN,

         It sounds to me that the "Quartering" may not be correct. Quartering is the relationship/position of the driver wheels to eachother. The driver wheels on the port side (left) need to be all exactly lined up with respect to the position of the small bolt that holds the drive rod to them.
         Next on the starboard side (right) all of the wheels also need to be exactly lined up 90' off the position of the portside drivers. This is "Quartering" The left side of drivers need to be in a 90' rotated position from the right side drivers.
          If this was not done properly at the factory, binding and excess wear on the drive train will occur.
          One other item that may be the cause is the electric motor may have loose mounting screws. This is something that you may want to check. Remove the boiler shell and check for tight mounting screws.

                                                Hope this helps...671

                                           

    I need a new boiler front for my 773 WbyB Hudson. The marker light broke due to a derailment caused by not enough slack in the tender to loco tether line.
    I have not gotten around to contacting the parts dept. This would be most foolish if they ask me to send them the entire loco for a part that small.
    I hope the "Bachman" reads this and assures me that I will not have a problem.

             I will post a report on this when I contact the parts dept.

                                        671

    I noticed that within the 2012 cat. only the Southern F-3 "B" unit is available. What happened to the other "B" units?
    They seem to have removed several items from the new catalogue. I.e. Green o27 Streamliners, 773 Hudson, B units, Santa Fe GP-38 etc.
                                    ...671

M1FredQ,
            Go to a last posting dated April 11 2001 TRUE BLAST II PROBLEMS, this may help with your sound card problem.

P.S. I have the Black and Red Santa Fe F3 ABA, WbyB, Great smooth runner. The Black and Red bonnet was in an original Lionel catalogue. It has been stated by some that it was a printing mistake it was suppose to be the Silver and Red bonnet. Lionel never produced that color scheme for public sale. I just love having it.  It's exceptional  performance "Forced" me to by the B&O F3 ABA. I have to stop this, I feel a Wabash coming!

                                    Hope this helps and cheers you up...671