Geesh ! Are we talkin' about that 1950s Mantua or Tyco 0-4-0 or 0-6-0 switcher with the slant back tender ! ? I have one collecting dust in a drawer under layout..I believe IT has that screw through what I believe is a heavy fiber board drawbar...and a wire from tender to motor..(not home right now )...!

Thanks for all the studious replies..I wasn't clear..I only broke off generator steam pipe on mogul (of course during mishandling it whilst lubing it upside down..)..So that's not something one can reattach even if you found it on the floor...Was thinking: drill tiny hole and push an angled stiff wire into.. Well, I guess  an entire new metal dynamo probably gets inserted in drilled hole anyway..probably easier to mount than stiff wire idea, huh ?

Hi, I won't state what make of DCC I have. But I will say this: I converted my 3mi. HO branch/bridge route from analog DC to digital DCC by running wires from new power panel ( where main powering- throttle plugs in ) to the 2 rails above it just like an old DC power pack did/does..I run jumper wires from same 2 rails or ANY 2 rails which run directly to power source (rails uninterrupted/isolated by gaps) up to rails which ARE isolated, such as 2 engine house tracks connected to, say, older code 70 power routing switches.That's it ! I have no running problems available-power-wise..I have not used 'bus' wires anywhere under layout; only jumpers here and there from powered to isolated track sections ..May not be advisable for huge MRRs, but it's been A OK for mine since day one some 3-4 years now since converting..You will have to reconnect old gapped rails from analog layout if no longer require gapping ( one of the main beauties of DCC)..Mark

Thanks Rick. You may have posted these a long time back for me..But problem is that even after screws are out I still can't get the boiler to budge. Should I just pull real hard ? Or are there other things up top such as the diagonal support bars from front of smoke box to pilot to be removed first ? If so, how ? I figure once motor and rest is exposed I might be able to locate some binding or other disfunction.
How does your 4-6-0 with sound run F&R ?
PS. Also broke off dynamo on Mogul..Is entire boiler purchase required ? It's not listed seperately in 2-6-0 parts list..
Mark

Hi, sorry if I'd asked this in past. Not sure.: My Spectrum DCC/sound HO 4-6-0 runs quite good forward. But in reverse there is a noticeable jerkiness/hesitancy. It's like the way a rowboat goes fast when oars in water and slows as oars leave water affect. I've tried to counter balance this changing CV values in motor control, PWM, BEMF. Acel/decel levels, forward/reverse trim, ET AL. which doesn't correct it. I can't get the shell off to watch gears/shaft. Please tell me how to do this(Shell off). I can't get gearbox cover off as the Delrin brake rigging is in the way and don't know how to remove that either. I do notice wheels on the axle which has the worm/gear on it that it kind of swivels. I.E. looking at it from above or from under one can see each wheel moving forward and back in the frame...This leads me to think there might be binding in side or main rods.. But I can't actually see this as it rolls. Ironically, my non-Spectrum mogul runs near perfect..Suggestions welcomed
Mark

Yes, I have the working front coupler ( McHenry I think )..As I am thinking of a second one I had a train store clerk run one from the display case and it seemed flawless...I guess I should ( and still could !) have sent her back to Bachmann..It is a replacement for another which had a very noticable drive train problem..This one is quite acceptable but, as I say, she judders a tad when crawling. I even ran her top speed a bit yesterday and it seemed to judder/hesitate...

I don't know which mine is ..wasn't aware of that ! It's a replacement from about 4-5 months back..so I assume it's the latest version..Is it known which one is better ? As I say, it runs nice forward but judders (miniscule jerking) in reverse, more so when running alone than with cars...

Hi, I may or may not have enquired about this earlier, but I can't find it...I have a mogul which was a replacement for another..This one is really OK but, only in reverse she judders a bit when crawling until she is moving say, 10-15 scale MPH..Forward is completely fine..I've carefully oiled every moving part ..One crosshead was sort of bent outward from its bottom rendering it very slightly diagonal..I was able to correct this 94% with my finger pushing it toward frame and a little crimping with a hemostat..Nothing seems to be binding. Is this just the nature of this particular issue..perhaps a motor behavior ? Or, what else might this be ? I've even tried some motor tweaking with my NCE throttle ( kick rate/kick depth/other), but nothing so far remedies this.

I think I saw an ad for this in MRRer..Are they available yet ? DCC/sound ?

So, I understand correctly that no sound is on board as yet with new S2 ..? If so, it looks as if all S's will never have sound due to shape/size of unit..I guess one could have a dummy trailer or always coupled to say, a gondola with a 'load' in middle...I have a now mothballed' analog Proto S1 I could add a decoder to. But, I'm only interested in locos with sound now..I don't want to work that hard...Mark

Thanks..will do...But to RAM above, I tried gluing them but it's of no use as both parts are SO tiny they have too little suface area to join back on, leave alone I believe they are delrin which requires a special Zap glue (forgot full name)..Oddly enough though, IF you have larger delrin things needing gluing , common old white glue works ( like gluing say, Atlas flex track onto cork or plywood ..These ties are delrin as are many truck frames and couplers...But forget teensy things...

Sorry, I asked this already but it  recieved no replys.  I'll ask once more:  As I managed two break to parts on my HO ten wheeler, can they be ordered ? One tender stirrup and one teensie, lowest under cab part which seems to resemble a brake-tension turn-buckle and mounts on the brake cylinder crosswise rod. Also, not sure, but it may also have been attached to the part which simulates the brake shoes (below/around  the gear box cover ). The stirrups look as if they snap in place..Or, am I looking at an entire new tender shell  in order to obtain a new stirrup?

I'm near buying this loco but, though no biggie, are the number boards lighted ? I think someone said they're not. Sounds as if you're all referring to a newer production is why I ask...Thanks ,Mark

Your parts availability list does not show tender stirrups (cab steps) or tiny part under cab which I believe resembles a brake-rigging-tension turnbuckle which has the crosswise brake rods through them. Is it that the stirrups only come with tender shell and other comes with say, gear box cover ?  This is the HO 4-6-0..,
Thank you,
Mark

Rich, I don't think you're "yelling" (flaming ?) at all !...I do agree that it's probably useless to think lubing will correct these problems..But first:
I wrongly described the 'bent/slanted' part as being the correctly slanted Radius Rod. The radius rod is slanted correctly..I should have cited the wrongly bent part on my Ten as being the very highest horizontal silvery part that the (vertical) combination lever is hanging from, hinged onto by a piece which is sort of shaped like a smaller crosshead..This is what is bent on one side of loco and perfectly level on other side...I did manage though to straighten it somewhat, as I'd stated above, with a hemostat..And loco is running a bit better..But I think I now see the main problem which IS drivers out of quarter..But I'm squeemish about tackling this job as I don't know if all the side rod, piston rods/valves will need to come off first (pull out pins ).Or, can/do they remain with the drivers whilst twisting drivers on their axles into quarter ?..Also, what should I do about broken stirrup and the other broken tiny part I described which crosswise brake rod goes through ? Is it merely time to send her in ? Or should I order these two parts and continue to try quartering drivers myself ?
Thanks for hangin' in,
Mark
PS. If I don't respond sooner it's because I am at local library with limited computer time. I usually have to wait until next day..