No.  Your ammeters and voltmeters are designed to measure dc.  With DCC, you are using a special form of ac.

There is, however, a combination ammeter and voltmeter designed specifically for measuring DCC current and voltage.  It is called an rrampmeter and is produced and sold by Tony's Train Exchange.  Click on the link below for more details:

http://www.tonystrains.com/technews/rrampmeter.htm

Jim

If you really, really want to run regular turnouts off DCC, you can do it using a bridge rectifier to turn the high frequency ac into dc.  Then you need a resistor to limit the current drawn from your DCC system (50 to 100 ohms or so) and a large capacitor to store enough energy to throw the switch (4700 to 10,000 microfarads at 25 volts.)  Some readers may recognize this as a basic capacitor discharge circuit, which is great for throwing switches.

DCC straight from your system is relatively high frequency.  This means it does not flow through coils as easily as dc and low frequency ac.  This in turn means that the coils in dual solenoid switch machines do not get enough current to operate properly.  By turning the high frequency ac into dc, the coils get enough current to operate.  But remember that the above circuit draws about as much current as a locomotive.  Depending on your DCC system, you may or may not want to decrease the maximum number of locomotives you can run at once.

The economics of this approach are questionable.  The parts listed above cost about $5, not including a box to mount them all in.  A wall wart power supply rated 12 to 15 volts, 1 or more amps, can often be had at thrift stores for a couple of dollars.  And a used model railroad power pack can often be found for $10 or less - much less if the dc output does not work but the ac output does.

So there you have it - the whys and why nots of running standard turnouts off DCC.

Jim

I am not sure if I am misinterpreting the question or Doneldon's answer or whether I am just confused by the terminology.  Let's tackle the terminology first.  "Controller" is a tricky word when it comes to DCC.  The E-Z Command is often referred to as a controller because that is exactly what it does - control the trains.  But in DCC terminology, that box contains the 3 of the 4 essential parts of any DCC system:

(1) a throttle which is the human/electronics interface.  If turns human commands like turning knobs and pushing buttons into electrical signals.

(2) a command station which is the brains of the outfit.  It turns human commands into digital commands that decoders can understand.  In some cases, it can receive commands back from decoders and translate them into text or other events that humans can understand.

(3) a booster that adds power to the digital commands so that when a decoder reads the digital commands sent to it, it can act upon them.  The booster built into the E-Z Command can put out about 1.5 amps which is enough to run several trains.

(4) a decoder which is not in the "controller" but is in the locomotive.  You might call it the "controllee" as it receives power from the booster and commands from the command station and acts upon them to run the locomotive to which it is wired.

As I understand your question, Tom, you would like one extra throttle to use with your throttle/command station/booster combination so that both your children can each have a throttle in their hand, letting each run his/her own train.  The device specified by Doneldon in his link will do just that.  You will not run out of power running just two trains and so you will not need the very expensive external booster Doneldon talked about.

Doneldon is correct that you cannot have more than one command station connected to a layout.  But you can have multiple throttles and multiple boosters, the number depending on the particular DCC system.  Some systems will accommodate up to 120 throttles and any number of boosters, but still only one command station.  Such systems are designed for large club layouts.

Jim 

Normally, the front and rear lights are turned on and off by function 0.  Which of the two is on depends on which way the locomotive is moving. 

Other arrangements are possible depending on how you program the decoder.  For example, I like to program my diesels so that the headlight is on 'if function 0 is on AND the locomotive is moving forward' (which is the same as saying the headlight is off 'if function 0 is off OR the locomotive is moving backward.')  That is the same as a normal headlight.  But I program the rear light so it is on 'if function 0 is on AND function 4 is on AND the locomotive is moving in reverse' (which is the same as saying the rear light is off 'if function 0 is off OR function 4 is off or the locomotive is moving forward.')  I mention this because if you bought your locomotive used, a previous owner may have programmed something similar into it.  If new and the tender light does not work, several possibilities come to mind:
- bad bulb in the tender light
- no bulb in the tender light
- bad decoder
- error in the decoder's programming.
The latter you can correct by resetting the decoder.  Depending on decoder make and model, that could be as simple as programming an 8 into CV8.

Jim

This problem sometimes occurs when the valve gear or connecting rods on the sides of the locomotive catch on one another or on something else.  They can work sort of like a ratchet - catch in one direction but slide freely over in the other direction.  Watch what is happening by running the locomotive as slowly as possible and observing first one side, then the other.  You might want to reverse the locomotive end for end on the track for observing the second side.

Another possibility is a faulty motor.  Once in a while something happens internally so that it can turn one direction but not the other.  The best test for this is to remove the motor and apply a 9 volt battery to the motor terminals, first one way then the other.  CAUTION: if the locomotive has a DCC decoder, unsolder one wire from its motor terminal first (this is not a bad idea in any case as it also eliminates the lighting board from the equation.)

A third possibility if there are connections between the locomotive and its tender is that one of the plugs is not pushed all the way in.  Going backwards, the locomotive pushes the tender and tends to push the plug into its socket.  Going forward, the locomotive pulls the tender and tends to pull the plug out.  With a loose plug, this can be enough to make and break contact.  This makes more sense if you know that all the power to the motor is routed through the tender in order to simplify the installation of a DCC decoder.

Assuming the locomotive was purchased from a Bachmann dealer, you might want to consider returning it to Bachmann for repairs.  Sorry to say, that might take a while at this time of year.

Jim 

It is possible but not easy to mix the all plastic track with the tin plate track.

I just checked your profile and did not see any indication of where you live.  I was wondering if it might be practical for one of us to mail you a few pieces plastic track.  Or you could enquire on the large scale board and maybe find someone in your area that has some.  I do not suggest posting your full address but the city or town would help.  You can always work out the details by email or private message later on. 

Jim

I use them both, Hydrocal for mouldings, plaster of Paris for about everything else.  But a dollar a pound is a bit much.  Try your local drywall dealer.  Mine sells 50 pound bags for $20 (about 40¢ a pound.)

If you want something with even less sheen, try surfacing your plaster with drywall compound.  You can cover large areas at once and carve it dry.  But is does not like washes of colours diluted with water.  But air brushed artists' acrylics diluted with water of windshield washer antifreeze are fine.  Drywall compound is also good for transitions under track.  You can trowel it to approximate shape with a putty knife or just a piece of plastic.  After it dries, it is easy to sand down the high spots and fill any low spots with a bit more compound.  Just don't put on too thick a layer at once or it will shrink and crack.  About 1/4" maximum and let it dry overnight before adding the next layer.  Drywall compound also sticks well to other materials.  Drywall compound, also known as drywall mud and drywall joint filler is NOT the same a Spackle used by painters.  Spackle sets quickly and very hard - drywall compound dries slowly and is soft enough to sand.

Jim

Without an insulated box around those open terminals, I would not be connecting that autotransformer to 120 volts and having it sit on my bench, even if it is rated for 120 volts.  Getting a shock from line voltage is not always a minor inconvenience, unless you consider being dead a minor inconvenience.  Whatever you want to do with this unit, spend a few bucks and get a 4 x4 x 2 PVC box with lid, then drill holes in the bottom of the box to fit over those terminals.  Screw, glue or rivet the box in place, and keep the lid on except when you need to rearrange the connections inside. 


If you really want to use it for running trains, you could connect the input terminals (the two lower ones) to 120 volts through a 5 amp fuse.  Then connect the output terminals (lower left and centre ones) to the input of an 18 volt, 20 amp transformer.  Connect the output of that transformer to a 50 amp, 50 volt bridge rectifier and the outputs of the rectifier to some large scale track via a 20 amp self resetting circuit breaker.  This is a dandy way to control large scale trains, for example, a multi-unit lashup of locomotives, each with two or more motors, pulling a long string of lighted passenger cars.  Bridgewerks, for example, makes a large scale power pack with similar output for similar applications.  While many large scalers would give their eye teeth for such a rig, it has absolutely no application for controlling H0 model trains.

The only time I have ever heard of similar transformers being used with H0 model trains was by John Allen.  He rigged them up to control his train room lights.  By replacing the knobs with gear motors, he could have his lights dim and brighten gradually and automatically.  If you try something like that, build the whole works - autotransformer, gear motor and all - into a closed insulated box.  I think I speak for all of us here on Bachman's Board when I say we would rather be reading what you have been doing with your railroad than reading your obituary.

Jim 

Check this photo of the funeral car on Lincoln's funeral train.

http://www.cowanauctions.com/itemImages/e3934.jpg

Jim

Quote from: florynow on December 29, 2011, 10:06:56 PM
That's a Bachmann 0-6-0 model Jim, not the mogul. The 0-6-0 headlight is sized OK.
PF

Actually, it is a Bachmann Canadian National Mogul, product no. #6012.  Perhaps you would like to check it out at this link:

http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/products.php?act=viewProd&productId=504

Would this photo of another Bachmann 2-6-0 Mogul be more to your liking headlight wise?

       

Jim

Quote from: Jerrys HO on December 31, 2011, 03:20:23 PM
... it is very limited on what sounds you can use as you only have f1 thru f10 to use ...

Jerry

I think you will find that trying to control even 10 sounds consistently and realistically will keep you too busy to enjoy your trains.  For this reason, Soundtraxx has included the possibility of automatic operation of many of the sounds.  In real life, steam locomotives had two man crews because one man working along could not handle all the chores.  In addition to shoveling coal, the fireman was expected to control the pump and/or injectors to keep the boiler topped up, clean the grate, blow down the boiler, operate the blower, and so forth.  So if you are being the engineer operating the engine, you have to worry only about the bell, the whistle, blowing down the cylinders, turning the lights (and dynamo) on and off, and a few sounds that cannot be automated such as filling the tender and the coupler clank.

Even if you include the lights and the mute control, you still do not have to have more than 8 functions.  Only two of the sounds need your constant attention - the whistle and the bell.  Coupler clank, filling the water tank, and blowing down the cylinders when you start up are needed only when you stop at a station or to do some switching.  Working the mute is a nice touch if you have tunnels.

Others may see sound operations differently.

Jim   

DCC decoders are programmed by storing values in "Configuration Variables" or CV's in the decoder.  The CV that controls automatic conversion to dc when DCC is not being used is CV29.  It should be set to a value of 6 to achieve what you want.  It will have to be set using a DCC command station.  Perhaps your local hobby shop or model railroad club or a private individual using DCC can do this for you.  Ask them to please turn the headlight on at the same time so that the headlight will work on dc power.

Jim

Quote from: bussy65 on December 31, 2011, 06:19:36 PM

Can DC Locomotives be converted to DCC, if so, how so and where??

Yes, by installing a DCC decoder which can read the digital signals and act upon them.  This can by done at your local hobby shop if they have a person that does this, or by one of several dealers that specialize in DCC products (Tony's Train Exchange comes to mind, http://www.tonystrains.com/ ) or you can do it in the comfort of your own home if you have or can learn the skills.  If there is a model railroad club in your area, there may be members willing to do this at very reasonable prices.  If none of that works, come up, over, or down here to Saskatoon and one of our club members will teach you.

Jim

Yes.

Jim

You bring up a valid point.  The group I model with has a large scale portable layout that is only 30" off the floor.  This is a great height for youngsters and for adults who want to watch trains while seated.  Almost every time we show it, we have parents thanking us for having our layout at a child friendly height.  At one show, we even had a large scale dealer compliment the height of our layout and then, at the end of the show, thank us by giving us a couple of large scale cars.  Apparently he had observed how long youngsters (and their parents) spent at our display compared to other displays where the parents had to hold their offspring up in the air for them to be able to see.  I am not surprised that it helped his business and I suspect it is part of the reason why we have won People's Choice awards so many times.  We have received very, very few complaints and when we do, we take the time to explain that kids love model railroads too and then offer the complainer a chair.  Almost invariably the complainer is won over and ends up thanking us before he/she leaves.

Working on our portable layout is easier at that height too.  We can work from a seated position and when we need to work on the bottom of a section, we just flip one or more of the fifty tables upside down and rest them on the other tables while we work.

The only down side of having our layout that low is the tooth marks that accumulate around the outer edge.  Excited tots, particularly ones of just the right height, express their excitement by chewing on the plywood edges of our tables.  But instead of erecting shields or barriers, we just make sure that all materials within biting distance are safe.  We sometimes have little hands touching the trains or moving some of the scenery (particularly animals) around but in 18 years we have never had anything stolen or damaged by our fans.

Jim