Suits me.  As long as that mechanism is as reliable as it has been, I am not upset about what Bachmann has to do out of necessity.  If I had my druthers, I would just as soon have no detail cast on, as that saves me the trouble when I install brass to my liking.  I usually do that.

Rich C.

This sounds like it might be a programming problem.  Maybe considering it's new-ness, hence a warranty issue, contact Bachmann.

Rich C.

Jim;
What method is that?...

Rich C.

Deland;
When you get taps, get three-to start.  I don't think you will regret it.  Brock also suggests three (several?) bits.  Also a wise move.  A couple of good squares won't hurt.  There are several styles of Dremel moto-tools; you might want to check these out as well.

Rich C.

Len;
Yeah, the tools I acquired are quite old-my guess would be in the 50-75 year-old arena.  I do not know if they "don't make 'em like they used to" stands here or not, but they are great, accurate, and hold a 'set'.
There are two other 'tools' I find useful to the nines:  Modern math and sticking to a plan. 
If there is anything that has kept my 'mind' in decent operating order, it would have to be those two critters.  Bourbon surely hadn't...

Rich C.

Roger,
In the 'water-based glue' dept., the only other types are like aliphatic resin or carpenter's glue-which, when dry, is relatively water tight. just thought I'd pass that along, for whatever it is worth...It has never worked for me in this application.  Logic tells me that there is too much of a conflict with the chemistry to work well.
Track-work: 
For what it is worth, my compliments to you on a fine job of ballasting.  I can only hope mine comes out that good, when I start it...  This is going to be the year, whether I like it or not.  I will be retiring this year; I have to have a reverse done on my left shoulder; and from what I understand, these procedures are complex, painful, and slow-in-recovery.  Well, I have enough going on in the layout dept.; so After this spring, it will be farewell to a wonderful love-affair with a great and rewarding career; and spending a goodly amount of time re-acquainting myself with my layout, such as it is.

Rich C.

Len;
That is sad about the discrepancy on the blocks..   I am with you 100% on the school issue.  While I never attended vocational school (parents expected "mine son the doctor"...You know how that ends out, eh?  Yeah right...badly). 
Fortunately, I found myself in ground equipment repair school in the Air Force.  Spent five years in what was to become the base for an outstanding and very rewarding electrical career.  I won't speak ill of college-just that it wasn't for me.
One question though:  As I remember 5&10 cent stores, (Woolworth, Kreszge, etc), how did you come upon jo blocks there?

Rich C. 

Is the headlight a filament lamp, or an LED?

Rich C.

Len;
In any industry requiring exacting (.004 or better) tolerances, you will usually find a set of "Jo Blocks" in the QC office; not sure of the pronunciation there.  These are the last word in checking measuring devices; as well as field checking what might be a good gauge, square, etc.
You are really correct about the used tools.  Browsing around a flea market in Plainville, Ct, I found a couple of micrometers, one B&S, and one Starrett; a Starrett "Last Word" Dial indicator, a screw-wheel set of dividers, and more-for the royal ransom of five dollars for the lot!!
I still stand by my B&S dial indicator!! 

Rich C. 

About trucks:
One thing I have learned (the hard way, of course) is that little or no attention is paid to the plane of the bolster, as opposed to the mating plane of the truck.  If one or the other is out of kilter, the car will run cock-eyed, not necessarily to the discerning eye of the operator.  When this problem is in evidence, the trucks will run misaligned, making the wheels prone to lift, causing a derailment.  This situation is exacerbated with an articulated truck arrangement.
Craftsman car kits are prone to this action, because the bolster is usually attached to the frame/body, and the truck then screwed to the bolster; and if a poor assemblage occurs, then problems can occur. 
I don't think it would take a math genius, but rather a good eye and taking one's time to visually check for this, and taking a file to the part for remedy.  sight down the body length-wise, as well as cross-wise for proper level.
Ideally, taking a level surface, like a granite QC block and an indicator mounted on an adjustable fixture, and just site that way.

Rich C.

Len;
You mentioned 'photo flo' for a wetting agent.  I am wondering how this might be applied in a decaling operation, or if it wouldn't work.

Rich C.

What I have done-and I believe this does the trick-is to put a metal watch-band around your wrist or ankle, and ground the other end of the conductor.  This way, static charge will be kept to a minimum.  Also, you could do the same thing with a conductor and two alligator clips; hook one onto an accessible part of the motor, and the other end to a grounding conductor; water pipe, etc.

Rich C.

Wayne;
On the positive side, if the wind is blowing north'ard, you can pick up the distinctively floral scent of Solvay Chemical Co. (you know, those 'mints'?)...

Wayne and Woody (hmm, sounds like a juggling team...)
Thanks for the great information.  I am probably going to use 1/4" hardwood ply-or a least am going to try it.  Would mixing white glue and matte medium work?  On thinking about it, the glue probably wouldn't get to the point of becoming completely dry.  I live in Western Connecticut, so I share the same consideration for humidity as do others.  On my structures, I brace the living daylights out of broad expanses, like roofs, etc.; which I would use Strathmore or Bristol board for.  Also, I seal said board with a good sealer.  So far, knock wood...  I haven't had any troubles with warping.
For roadbed, I would think a mix of 75% white glue, and 25%matte.  What are your thoughts?

RIch C.

Wayne;
Very good work; all nicely done!  I have seen 'Novelty iron Works" here and there over the last ten or so years, but never gave it too much thought for one reason or another.  I do a lot with Rail Design Assoc.  kits.  One I picked up not too long ago was the 'Witch Hazel" plant.  The original one is in Essex, Ct; but I think they took the design from the building that sits in Essex Depot (Valley Railroad).  I built it, and am very satisfied with it.  I am wondering how difficult it would be to kit-bash Novelty Iron with say, Delaney Iron Works.  It looks like an interesting kit-bash; or even Novelty and Matthews Machine Works (Looks suspiciously like Mason Locomotive Works, originally in Taunton, Mass.).

Rich C.