Some of my best model railroading has been done while snowed in!  Just keep enough supplies on hand.

Les

The use of "power carriages" (generator cars) in American passenger trains was fairly uncommon.  A few long passenger trains did use these to supply power for train lighting.

Train lighting generators in locomotives (HEP, head-end-power) was first used, I think, on Chicago commuter trains on the Chicago and North Western.  CB&Q Chicago commuter trains used dedicated generator cars, or combination generator-coaches.  Modern passenger locomotives have built-in generators for this purpose, and the electricity is used for train heating as well as lighting.

In the "Golden Era" of US passenger trains, passenger trains were lighted with electricity and heated by steam.
The steam was provided by the steam locomotive, or by train heating boilers in the Diesel or electric locomotives.  One of the identifying features of passenger Diesel locomotives was the heating boiler(s).

Some railroads used steam for operating air conditioning systems in passenger trains.  Milwaukee Road and Santa Fe used this system.

In large terminals, steam lines were provided at the track.

During the Golden Era, passenger cars carried self-contained electrical systems.  They carried lead-acid storage batteries on their underframes that were kept charged by generators.  These were powered by pulleys hooked to the axles.  The cars could be plugged into power cords when in a terminal.

Commonly, the air conditioning systems were electrically powered.  Also common in the Golden Era were air cooling systems that used blocks of ice carried in bunkers that had electric fans blowing air over them.

Les

I suspect the original poster was referring to turbo-generators mounted on the boiler.  These generated electricity for the radio, lights, etc.

It sounds to me like there may be something keeping the outboard bearings on the worm shafts from setting down in the frame.  Check the blocks that the bearing sleeves fit in.  They may be sitting in the gear tower frame 90% off kelter.  That would raise the worms too high.

Les

I found out yesterday that the Radio Shack chain was going bankrupt.  That will be a real blow to us model railroaders .  I use a lot of their components on my DC model railroad.

Les

I found out yesterday that the Radio Shack chain was going bankrupt.  That will be a real blow to us model railroaders .  I use a lot of their components on my DC model railroad.

Les

Reliable operation in N scale is all about good electrical contact.  Nickle silver is much less susceptible to power-blocking corrosion than brass or steel, although clean ns rails will outperform dirty ones.

Your 1980-era N-scale trains represent a transition era.  Manufacturers were discovering that N-scale trains needed to be more refined than merely shrinking down HO trains.  Corner-cutting dodges that were marginally acceptable in low-priced HO trains will not work in N scale.  Locos need to drive and pickup power through both trucks.

The reason for this is the light weight of N-scale locos require better electrical contact than HO locos.  The most successful N-scale locos are scaled-down versions of high-quality HO locos: power by both trucks, all-wheel electrical pickup.

Atlas locos of this period were a mixed lot.  The older models (Rivarossi made) used the technology found in 1960's Rivarossi HO locos: small plastic-bodied can motors mounted vertically over the rear truck, driving only that truck.  Later models used centrally mounted open-frame motors driving both trucks through drive shafts.

The Rivarossi-Atlas models were known for very good die work and paint jobs.  If you use ns track and keep everything clean, both types of Atlas locos should provide good service if you don't overload them.

You probably should try some new state of the art N-scale locos and see how they compare to your old units. I think you will be pleasantly surprised.

Les

I worked on a railroad with a 4% branch line grade.  It was a real headache.  Sometimes, we had to double the hill.

Les

Oh, man, that is bad news.
I'm really going to miss him here.

Les

I have seen a couple of real R-1's, but they are different from 237 & 239.  These locos (one at the Forney Transportation Museum at Denver, one at Mid-Continent Museum at North Freedom, WI) look larger than 239 and have canted cylinders and steam chests.

These were among the last, if not the last, CNW steam engines in operation.  In their lives, they served the roles later occupied by GP7's and GP9's.  In fact, that was what replaced them.  They (like the Geeps) were mainline dual-purpose engines when new, then wound up on branches.

I have ridden behind the North Freedom engine, and one of my friends, a fellow retired loco engineer, used to run it.

Les

I have used Squadron putty for years.  The only problem I ever had with it was one time when I used it to attach a lead weight inside a 1/72 scale airplane I was building.  After drying overnight, it had softened the plastic to the point the plane looked like a truck had crashed into it.  It was my fault for misusing it.

I only use the white variety now.  Not only is it easier to smooth (being finer grained), but the white putty is much easier to paint over.  The green tends to show through paint.

Les

One caution on these manual ground throws:  they are oversize for N-scale.  If you doubt that, compare one to an N-scale figure standing next to it.  They have to be made that way so you don't destroy them throwing them with your fingers.

Actually, an N-scale ground throw would be closer to scale size (in HO) than a HO ground throw would be.

Les

I don't think you will find any.  Probably the best way to go about this would be to buy some non-powered turnouts (pre-EZ-Trak Bachmann, Atlas, or similar).  These come with a manual mechanism that is like a solenoid switch machine without the motor inside.  Take this device off (it is held to the ties with screws).
The switch machine engages the switch throw bar (the part that moves the points) with a pin that moves back and forth.

There are ground throw mechanisms available.  I think Caboose Hobbies makes them.  You need to mount them so the pin on the moving part engages the throw bar.

If you are using roadbed, you will need to put some under the ground throw to raise it to the same height as the switch.  By using layers of cork or foam roadbed, you can also raise the switch so it will work with EZ-Trak for the rest of your track.

Les

I've never heard of a safety recall of a Bachmann product.  Mr. Bachmann should be able to answer that.
It sounds possible for a powerpack to deteriorate from heat, although that too is something that might happen.  I have a MRC powerpack I have used for about 25 years that still works fine.

New DC powerpacks will work just fine with older DC trains.  If you have any doubts about your present powerpack, replace it with a new one.  Trainset-type powerpacks are not expensive.

Les

Rail does not conduct electricity as well as wire.  If you are experiencing voltage drop (that is what it sounds like) you will need to run additional wires from your powerpack to the rails at a point farthest from your present connection point.  If that doesn't do it, add additional feeders to split the distance between feeders.

There are a couple ways to do this.  You could run buss wires (heavier wires) around the underside of your railroad for each rail.  Lighter feeder wires would then be run from the buss wires to the track at different points.  Only the buss wires themselves would need to be attached directly to your powerpack.  Otherwise you could forget about the buss wires and just run additional pairs of wires from your powerpack.  If you do DC, one set of feeders can later be used to feed power to electrically isolated segments.  The other set can be used as a common return.

Good electrical connections are very important in either DC or DCC control.  Before you start running wires, be sure the rail joints are good and tight.

Les