Rope lights? You mean he kind you put on your shrubbery at Christmas time?  I have yard and yards of the stuff....and they don't twinkle!  If that's the case I wish I would have known that weeks ago.

Thanks guys for a very informative reply.  I've printed this out and will keep it as a part of my "Bachmann Book of Instructions".

Jim, I feel like Plato sitting at the feet of Aristotle....or was it the other way around?  Wait, I know....it's like Charlie McCarthy sitting on the knee of Edgar Bergin!  I wonder if our younger members of this forum know who they are???  Anyway, thanks, Jim, for your help.

Bill

Jim,

Over the past several weeks I have been putting lights in my town.  I have connected about 20 lights in parallel, all of which run under my board to my 12v power source. The power is a dedicated transformer to which I plan to use the AC terminals.  Although I have not connected the circuit to my transformer to test it, I am worried that I have not placed any resistors in my circuitry.  Based on other posts you have made about the need to place such resistors, I am concerned about burning out my bulbs and/or excessive heat build up. Most of the bulbs are miniatronics grain-of-wheat 12v. I don't recall the mA value since I have thrown away the package in which they came.

Question 1: What is the danger of operating the circuitry without any resistors, and
Question 2: If I definitely need resistors, would it be possible to place one in the feeder lines so that the whole circuit would be protected?

Thanks, Bill

I bought one off of E-bay which was made with red and green LEDs and powered with a watch battery.  There was an on/off switch fastened to the bottom of the caboose.

Thanks, Hunt.  I'm on my way to my LHS.

I have an old Riverossi electric motor in which I need to clean the rotor. I'm undecided whether to use alcohol or LaBelle #107 oil.  Before I mess up anything I thought I would ask someone on this board for advice.  Will the Labelle oil coat the brushes and rotor preventing them from making contact, or should I use alcohol?

I've made a very wide river on my layout.  After preparing and painting the banks and bottom of the river not unlike the videos from Woodland Scenics, I poured thin layers of Min Wax clear varnish as a substitute for water.  It is quite a bit cheaper than the artificial waters now on the market.  You should wait at least two days before pours in order for each layer to dry and cure.  And above all, do it in a well ventilated area.  Also, make sure your seams are water tight and your river or lake is completely level, or you'll have pools of clear varnish on your floor.

Bill

Well, you could, but it would be very messy.  Hot glue wouldn't harm your felt or your track, but it leaves a very shiny aftermath which isn't good for scenery application if you choose to do so.  Also, it is stringy and would tend to land in places where you wouldn't want it to.  If you want your layout to be permanent, use track nails.

To anyone who has a Peter Witt Street Car,

I've just finished laying track for my Peter Witt in which it comes down the middle of one street in my city and turns a 90 degree angle to go down another street. I believe Bachmann advertises that it will negotiate a 9 inch radius turn. Well, good news! In two of my turns it negotiates what I would estimate a 71/2 inch to 8 inch radius. I used code 83 flex track in which I slowly bent the track to connect with the other. Although the ties are somewhat eskewed, the guage remained well enough to prevent any track jumping or derailment.  I've run over a dozen times with no problems yet. 

So, for those who are attempting to use the PW on tight radii, go ahead and try it. Now I just wonder if it will negotiate a 7 to 71/2 inch radius.

Bill

WGL,

Great topic, I'm glad you posted it.  I noticed so far that no one has addressed your problem when running your combine with seats forward, it derails at a turnout.  If you have KD syle couplers, you might want to check if the combine couplers are too low or too loose.  Quite often the uncoupling bar (I don't know it's correct name) might catch on a certain portion of the turnout. When it runs in a certain direction with the point forward, the uncoupling bar will catch, where as running in the opposite direction, it just slides over. 

Bill

To WGL:
Try cutting off some of your people at mid-waist and gluing them to the seat.  I've tried it and it looks great. You don't even notice that they have no feet or legs.  Also, there is no blood letting and thus far I haven't hear of any complaints.

Bill

Is that chlorine gas escaping in the second picture?

Check on e-bay.

Ahh yes, the old concrete gulch.  I, too, have lost some engines to the dreaded gulch.  My latest loss was a Bachmann Spectrum 4-6-0 that took the plunge. The side rods were bent beyond my ability to straighten them. So, one of my favorite steamers is sitting on the siding looking pitiful.  I think I know the answer, but would anyone know if Bachmann would replace it with an accompanying check?

Bill

Jack, that's not a bad idea either.  This weekend I'm going to get down to WalMart and select some thread.  I'll try your idea too. As a matter of fact my wife has some old bees wax from her candle making days. (yes, we have electricity...it was just a hobby of hers'.)

Sid,
Thanks for the website link, I didn't know they existed.  They have some great looking stuff.  Unfortunately I need about six feet of fence and the brass etching will break my model railroad budget really, really bad. 

Bill