Hello Everyone--

Much has been written on DCC for operating our trains and turnouts.  My question is: has anyone experienced connecting stationary decoders (I believe that's the appropriate name) to Bachmann's remote (electric) EZ-track #5 turnouts (or another size turnouts)?  What equipment did you use?  Manufacturer?  Approximate price?  Results, Etc.?

I realize Bachmann plans to introduce some time soon DCC controlled turnouts, but what about folks like me who have already invested a lot of money in remote EZ track turnouts and crossovers?  I am sure many of you out there are in the same boat.

Furthermore, and this may be a question for the Bach Man, can remote switches be retrofitted for DCC capability?     

Thanks for your input.

Steve

Hello Everyone--

I hope this is not redundant, so please bear with me as I ask.  As all who use HO E-Z track know, sometimes (may be more often than we want) connecting sections can be a real pain in the butt for a variety of reasons.   For me at least, misaligment of metal rail joiners are the biggest offenders.  I know other manufacturers have similar track that may be easier to connect (e.g., LifeLike and Kato), but their renditions have limited track options, don't look as good as EZ track, or are very expensive.  Some ideas I have thought of include using duct tape under the connections of track sections (e.g., 2 curved sections), buying long sections of track, and/or constructing templates of cardboard or hardboard. 

But, I still need to connect many sections that cannot be secured.  I run trains on temporary basis: set up the track on the floor and tear it down afterwards.  Besides, I like the idea of changing the track plan on the fly.  I know, I know, this will not sit well with some, but that's the way I run HO trains in my apartment.

So... any ideas on speeding up the connection process and/or ensuring the metal joiners/track ends remain in better alignment?

ALSO, any ideas for portable scenery (landscape, trees, backdrops, flexible street material that can be set up and broken down quickly)?  I got some good ideas from Bachmann's first book on EZ track, but would like to see what else is out there.

Thank you,

Steve

Bach Man--

Any official publication date on the new EZ track book?

Thanks,

Steveeusd

Hello Everyone--

In reading the description of the Spectrum 2-8-0, I get the impression that sound only works under DCC.  Is this correct?  Or will the loco generate sound under DC with a special device?

Thanks for your help.

Steve

Hello Everyone--

Wanted to take the time to thank people such as Terry Toenges, Joe Satnick, Jim Banner, and everyone else who has made the transition into HO easy and enjoyable.  I've just finished constructing Bachmann's WGH, the Madison Central, layout with 22" radius turns and #5 turnouts.  I am using both DC and DCC.  I have been a long time N-Scaler and have decided to enjoy the advantages of HO, especially Bachmann's equipment.  Without this message board, which looks great, I don't think I would have been successful.  

Again, thanks to all.

Bach Man, keep up the good work.

Steve Williams  

Hello Bach Man and everyone else--

I just bought a Bachmann HO SD 40-2 DCC loco (item #60904) and noticed EXCESSIVE lateral swivel (side to side) between its trucks and frame/body so much so that cars do not stay connected to it and it almost always derails when it goes through Bachmann #5 switches.  If I put my hand on the loco and let go of it quickly, it actually jiggles/swivels A LOT.  I don't think the trucks should be so loose.   Should I return it or is there a quick fix?  I hope this makes sense to everyone.

As usual, any help would be appreciated.

Steve

Bach Man--

I noticed that your HO 0-6-0 UP loco (item 50701) sold with a EZ-Command Station (item 44919) is DCC equiped.  Is there anyway I can buy from your parts department or another department just the loco with the decoder equipped?  I already have the EZ-Command and the walk-around companion, so I don't need the command unit. 

Thanks,

Steve

Hi Bach Man or anyone else--

Is the USRA UP 0-6-0 steam loco with a vanderbuilt tender DCC ready?  If not, what would be needed to make it work under DCC?

Thanks,

Steve

Hello Everyone--

I have a situation that I would like to throw out to the experts. I want to run DC (analog) and DCC (digital) engines concurrently on the same layout.  The layout configuration is a simple oval with two passing siding on the straight aways.  I am using Bachman EZ track, #5 switches, and EZ-command station. 

Here's what I want to do:  I want to isolate both sidings with plastic rail joiners and supply them both with only DC power, which will be controlled by a MRC 1300 power pack.  The rest of the layout would be run on DCC, using Bachmann's EZ-command unit, which by the way operates flawlessly (kudos to Bachmann).  My rationale is I want to have the ability to park a DC locomotive on the siding and cut power to it so the motor does not fry.  As I understand it, if a DC engine operating on DCC remains idle for any length of time on a siding, for instance, I can ruin or fry the engine.  I also understand I must take another step to allow a safe and smooth transistion from DCC to DC and vice versa.   That step includes installing a light or some other device on the wire between the track and the DC power pack.  Further, I think I can use a DPDT switch so I can power the siding with either DC or DCC.  So... to the experts: am I on the right "track" or not?  What would you suggest?  Am I missing anything?

By they way, I realize I could cure this problem by installing decorders on my DC engines.  However, this would be too cost prohibitive. 

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks,

Steve
 

Bach Man or anyone else--

Are Bachmann's HO #4 switches power-routed so that the direction of the switch energizes one track and does not electrify the other?

Steve

Hello Everyone--

I need someone's help.  I thought Bachmann's HO EZ track #5 switches were power-routed, meaning once the switch was thrown in one direction, one track would be powered and the other would be dead.   One application would be providing power to the main line and killing the power to a parallel siding.  My intent was to run the layout with Bachmann's EZ-Command DCC unit, where I would run a DCC train and a DC train concurrently, and have the ability to pull the DC train onto the siding and let it remain stationary without power (so that the AC current would not fry the DC motor).  

OR Is this capability only found in the Bachmann's "regular" (#4 I believe) switch, where the frog is insulated?

I realize that one possible work-around would be to insulate the siding track and apply separate power to it, effectively making the siding a separate "block".   But, I would rather not do that.  Any help would be most appreciated as I am very upset with myself because I did not research this better and assumed #5 switches were power-routed.  But, you know what happens when one assumes!

Steve

Hello everyone--

I just installed a NCE D13SRJ decorder in an HO Athearn Dash 9, which has DCC plug in play capability.  I am using Bachmann's EZ Command.   I affixed electrical tape on the bottom of the decoder (circuit board), thus insulating it from the Motor/brushes, etc.  (Just as stated in the operating instructions.)  The loco ran well under both DC (using a MRC 1300) and DCC (Bachmann's EZ Command).  I noticed however after running the engine for about 20-25 minutes, the shell, which I placed snuggly on the chassis, was hot to the touch.  I also notice after removing the shell, the decorder and the "permanent  board" under the decorder (the board that the decorder plugs into) was also very hot.  I left the decorder "free" to float. 

It was recommended I try another exact decorder and see what happens.  I will do that tonight.  But, in between time, any help would be helpful.  I am new to DCC and this is my first decorder installation, so I could have done something incorrectly. 

Sincerely,

Steve

Hello Everyone--

I just received my HO Shay.  It ran well (after breaking it in), but the front light seems rather dim to me.  The back light is a little brighter when the unit goes backwards.  I ran it on DC.  I spoke to a representative at Trainworld where I bought it and he told me that is the case with Shays in general.  Three questions:  (1) what has been your experience with the shay's front light?  (2) Besides adding a decorder to it, how can I make it brighter?  (3) Or should I exchange it for another one?

Any input will be appreciated,

Steve