Should I use Pink or Blue foam board for my layout.

[Robertj668]

Sorry this is a long posted question but I want to do this right the first time.
I asked this at my local hobby shop several week and wow what a debate is sparked.   A lot of opinions but I wanted to ask here.

Here is the simple question.  Are they any major differences between the blue foam board and the pink stuff.  I did here that the blue stuff doesn't accept the the glue that well. So what is the differences like Workability, Longevity, reliability, strength, etc.

Now here is the background.
I initially purchased the 3 4x8 1" thick board at Lowes for my base.  It was hard to trim it with a knife. I found out. It is made by Dow and is rated XXX.

I saw at Home depot a pink version of the foam board it seams more dense. They were about 13 a piece

I also went to another place that had 1", 1 1/2" and 2". I did not get to see them as it was more of a commercial place but they do sell to individuals. However this place is a good distance and the 1" is 20 a piece.

Now I plan on getting a Wire foam cutter to help me make my cuts. Any other advice would be greatly appreciated!

Thank you

Robert

[CNE Runner]

Good afternoon Robert. I haven't had any experience with pink Styrofoam insulating board; having only used the blue version. All the videos on YouTube show pink foam board...if that means anything. The blue foam works very well and is easy to cut with a hot knife such as Micro Mark's #83442. Hot knives are pricey so be perpared (about $80).

In the South, 2" insulating board is rather rare. I checked with both Lowe's and Home Depot and neither had the 2" - offering only 1" thicknesses. With the proper Liquid Nails (all Liquid Nails products will not work on Styrofoam), gluing two 1" thick pieces was a no-brainer.

I do want to call your attention to the plastic film that adheres to the 'good side' of the Styrofoam sheet. The side opposite all the printing will have a clear, plastic protection film applied. To remove it you simply get your fingernail under a corner and slowly pull. If you do not remove the film, normal acrylic paints will not adhere to the board (Can you tell I've been there?).

If you are contemplating the use of hot glue, you always want to use the low temperature variety as the normal hot glue will melt the Styrofoam's surface (right again...I've been there).

Good luck,
Ray

[Robertj668]

Ray

That was a great answer. I want to get a hot knife and the hot wire cutterone too.  My son 6 year old son noticed the plastic film and started to pull it up.  At first I was upset with him then thought hey if he was able to easily do this then maybe it should not be there.

I think there is a Liquid nail for foam applications? 

It also sound like you were able to blue the track and scenery successfully too!

Thanks again

Robert

[glennk28]

From what I can tell, the color only identifies the manufacturer.  I have both--can't tell the difference.  Whatever you can get cheap. 

A Tip--if you notice a construction project wnere they are using foam insulation, ask the foreman if you can clean up the scrap for him--keep the usable pieces and toss the rest into the dumpster--he will appreciate not having to pay someone to do it.  gj

[Jim Banner]

Blue is for boy railroads.
Pink is for girl railroads.

Seriously, I used both on two portable layouts and noticed no difference.  On one of them, in N-scale, I used the top surface of the Styrofoam board as the base for the track, cutting ditches on both sides, and then cutting all the scenery below track level or raising it up by adding additional foam.  Adding ground foam etc. finished the scenery for a very light weight layout.

White Styrofoam "bead board" is a whole different kettle of fish.  Used in layers, it is useful for holding up a finish coat of plaster of Paris, which is my personal favorite when it comes to finishing scenery.  But bead board has little strength and needs a finish coat of something to cover the beads.

Jim

[CNE Runner]

Robert - I have just started the process of constructing a switching puzzle. My wife remembered that we purchased a tube of foam cement at Lowe's yesterday (apparently my short-term memory is nil). The tube is Loctite Power Grab Foamboard Adhesive. Glad you found the plastic film. I always turn my foamboard upside-down to eliminate the chance of the black printing 'bleeding' through my scenery (although honestly it has never happened)...that is when I first ran into the 'Film Monster'.

Ray

[Terry Toenges]

In working with foam, I use a variety of tools.
It doesn't necessarily have to be a tool to be used as a tool.
Raid the kitchen drawers and use your imagination.  Serrated knives, cheese graters, ice cream scoopers, pizza cutters...
Drywall tools and auto body tools are really good, too, for shaping and they come in different shapes and sizes. Keyhole saws are good.
I never use a hot wire because of the odor. Some folks swear by them.
I've found pink board easier to work with than blue board. Others might like the blue. I  always thought the pink board was easier to cut. White "bead" board is a pain to use if you have to cut it because of all the little white beads that seem to end up everywhere.
I know your track is already down. I use rubberized shelf liner under the track to cut down on the sound. The kind you get at Walmart with the little holes in it and it comes in colors. I lay it and dribble white glue on it. It's easier than cork or foam to remove if you change your mind/track plan.
I've tried a variety of the "Liquid Nails" type adhesives and I always come back to white glue (diluted or straight - depending on application) for 90% of my gluing.
WS foam putty comes in handy, too.

[Jim Banner]

If I may add to Terry's list of tools, short lengths (about 12" to 18") of bandsaw blade do wonders for concave cutting.  For speed, the ultimate tool is an angle grinder with a coarse wire brush.  It is best used outdoors, with both a paper mask and a face shield.

Jim