Track Issues

[PRRThomas11]

Hi everyone! I haven't posted here in a while, nor have I had a chance to work on my layout. Now that schools out, I'm devoting some of my summer to finishing my layout.

Today I went to the train store and bought a whole bunch of track and scenery supplies. I bought some electric switches. One I got all set up then five minutes later, I noticed that it got all melted! Could anyone tell me what might have happened?

Also, my layout (N scale) is made with all flex track. I had a problem with that. One of the curves is too broad to make out of one 3 foot piece of flex track, therefore I have to have a joint mid-curve. This makes an angle in the joint where the train derails all the time. I tried changing the track and moving the joints but that just moved the problem to another spot. How could I make a joint in flex track joint in a curve nice and smooth?

[pdlethbridge]

curves in flex track are made smooth by soldering the rail joiners. Just make sure the rails are not kinked at the joiner

[Joe Satnik]

Dear PRRThomas11,

Stagger the 2 rail joints so they are not right across from each other. 

I don't know how far apart they should be for N scale track....  3 to 6 inches?

Hope this helps.

Sincerely,

Joe Satnik

[PRRThomas11]

Ah ok. Those are both very good ideas. I try both! I have never soldered joints though. How do I go about doing that?

And thanks for your prompt resposes.

[jward]

there is a trick to soldering the joints straight. don't try to solder them in place unless you absolutely have to. better to solder two pieces of flex track together before you lay the track. then after they cool you can bend the track to fit the curve knowing the joints won't kink.

[pdlethbridge]

Tinning the rail and the joiner first makes it much faster. Tinning is putting hot solder on the parts to been soldered. Solder should flow smoothly. I use some locking tweezers between the rail and ties to keep the plastic ties from melting. When soldering, always get the object to be soldered hot enough to melt the solder.
A great tutorial is here.
http://www.members.shaw.ca/sask.rail/TechNotes/soldering.html

[rustyrails]

One more trick for soldering on a curve if you have to.  Glue down about 1/2 of a piece of track.  Allow the loose half to straighten out.  Trim the rails so they are even.  Then solder on a new piece.  Go back to gluing down the track.  When you have about 1/2 piece left, repeat. 

Here's a guess about your melted switch.  All, as far as I know, RTR switches us twin coil switch machines.  They only require power to be applied VERY briefly to throw the switch.  Continued application of power results in the generation of LOTS of heat.  My guess is that something was holding down the button for the switch, or the control unit itself is defective.

Hope this helps.   Good luck with your track.  It's the foundation upon which you'll build the rest of your railroad and it needs to be as perfect as you can get it. 

Rusty

[ebtnut]

If you are going to be using a fair amount of flex track, head back to you LHS and get a pair of rail nippers.  These are similar to wire cutters, but the jaws are designed go give you a clean flat cut.  And for soldering the flex track, I always mate the track pieces together straight, then bend the track to the needed radius.  One laid down, always check the track gauge at the joint to make sure it hasn't narrowed.  If it did, a couple of small track spikes will be needed to hold the rails to proper gauge.  

[jward]

while i do own a pair of rail nippers, i think saying they give a good clean cut is blatantly false. you still need to clean up the cut end of the rail or you risk derailments from those nice "clean" burrs on the rail. no matter what method you use to cut rail you still need to smooth the cut with a file.

[OkieRick]

Invest a few bucks in a Track Saw - you'll need it down the road if you're using flex track.

                       

Long lasting, all-purpose saw features extra-fine teeth to make razor-smooth cuts in wood, plastic, nickel-silver, etc.  http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/150-400

Rick

[PRRThomas11]

Thanks everyone! Im going to try soldering the track to see if that will fix the problem.

I noticed that the box on my switch said dont hold the button down for more than a second. That would be my problem.

Thanks!
-PRR

[Santa Fe buff]

How much voltage do those switches take in anyway?

Joshua

[PRRThomas11]

How much voltage do those switches take in anyway?

Joshua

I don't know exactly how much but its whatever the accessory posts on a transformer put out.

[pdlethbridge]

probably 16 volts. That would toast it pretty fast! A thought about rail nippers vs fine toothed saw. The saw will give a clean cut but unless the rail is held firmly, you will loosen or break the plastic pieces that hold the rail to the tie. Rail nippers have a flat side and an angled side. The cut should be made so the flat side of the cutter is the finished rail side. It should come out pretty good and flat and only need minor dressing with a file. It's much easier on the track and quicker.

[jward]

Invest a few bucks in a Track Saw - you'll need it down the road if you're using flex track.

                       

Long lasting, all-purpose saw features extra-fine teeth to make razor-smooth cuts in wood, plastic, nickel-silver, etc.  http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/150-400

Rick

you'll still need to file your rail ends smooth. it really doesn't matter what you use to cut rail you still need to file it if you want smooth running track.