Old Newbie needs DCC / wiring help.

[CUrob]

This is my first post, so please be gentle.

I have been out of MR for about 15yrs, and now I am getting back in. I used to have a 4x8 layout in the garage growing up, DC large oval with sidings etc.... now I am older and married, so I am working on a shelf layout of sorts... actually closet layout 24"w x 72" L.
I found this website ( http://www.carendt.com/ ) and it got me hooked back in, that's when I decided that I could do a layout in a small space.

So I have all my HO stuff, been on ebay like crazy. Plenty of EZtrack, Eztrack switchs, and EzCommand DCC... now how the heck do I wire the bloody thing?

I have found lots of DCC primers on what it is and how to wire blocks and bus systems for large layouts, but nothing or even anything that I can relate to for a small switching layout. I am looking at something like and "inglenook" or "tymesaver" layout (http://www.carendt.com/scrapbook/page42/index.html )

SO without just connecting wires and see what will happen, since I don't want to damage my new DCC locos or catch the house on fire (wife said that one), i figured I would seek the advice of experts.

[CUrob]

I may be leaning more towards a "gumstump" (http://www.carendt.com/scrapbook/page38a/index.html )

[rustyrails]

Hey, CUrob, Welcome back!  I know you've been reading, but if you haven't read it, may I suggest The DCC Guide by Don Fiehmann, published by Kalmbach.  You should be able to find a copy at you local hobby shop (LHS).  It gives a very good overview of DCC and will answer lots of your general questions.  Then read the documentation that came with your DCC stuff.  I don't use EZ Command but there are lots of folks on here who do and you will find members who can help you answer specific questions.  Also, as I'm sure you know since you found your way here, the Internet is a wonderful source of all sorts of model railroading info.

Bottom line is that, especially for a small layout, DCC is much easier to wire than an analog DC cab control system.  Pretty much two wires to track in the middle of your shelf will do it.  
   
Rusty

[CNE Runner]

Welcome back to our world! DCC is nothing to be afraid of. Basically you connect two wires to opposite rails and you are up and running. Please understand that is the absolute bare-bones instructions as DCC can do so much more. I suggest taking one step at a time. You will need some sort of DCC controller/power supply. I use MRC's Prodigy Advanced...but the choice is up to you and the thickness of your wallet. You need a DCC-equipped locomotive, some wire and some track. Most (although not all) DCC locomotives come programmed with #3 as their default address...this can (and should be) changed in the future; but don't worry about that now. Make a circle of track on the floor, connect the two wires from your DCC controller, rail a DCC-equipped engine and PLAY!! Oh, never rail a DCC-equipped locomotive with the track power on as it can screw up the decoder (little thingie, in the engine, that passes on your instructions to the motor).

I, also, have a shelf layout measuring 30"x12' that was inspired by this website:

http://www.wymann.info/ShuntingPuzzles/

My layout can be run according to my operating rules or used as a gameboard for the Timesaver game (the website above explains all the rules). Honestly, I have had hours of fun switching cars and making up trains. The only thing we small shelf layout folks can't do (in HO anyway) is continually run trains.

Let us know how you made out.
Ray

[Jim Banner]

CUrob, it sounds like you already have your DCC controller, an E-Z Command.  For a small layout, it really is as easy as plugging one end of the cord into the controller and the other end into a connector/rerailer track, then plug the power supply cord into the controller and the supply itself into the wall.  If you bought you E-Z Command off eBay, it may have come without a manual but the manual is posted on line at:
http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/ez_content/EZ_Command_instructions.pdf

New locomotives normally come programmed to DCC address 3 but there are exceptions.  Used locomotives are usually programmed to whatever address the previous owner thought suitable.  Often this is the number on the side of the locomotive.  By all means try running on address 3 the first time you try out a new-to-you locomotive.  If it does not work, then reprogram the locomotive's address.  Page 3 of the above manual explains how to do this both for locomotives set to address 3 and for locomotives set to 4 digit addresses/unknown addresses.  When the directions tell you to press the 3 button and stop button at the same time, you should press and hold down the 3 button first, then press the stop button.  If your E-Z Command included the DVD, it shows this done correctly.

And a note to your wife:  even if you make horrible mistakes wiring up your DCC, it will not burn your house down.  E-Z Command (and all other commercially produced DCC command stations and boosters) have built in protection circuits to protect them (and you) against overloads and short circuits.

Maybe your wife is related to my wife.  A couple of nights ago, all the lights in the neighbourhood went off, house lights, street lights, the works.  My wife immediately called me in my workshop and wanted to know what I had done now.

Jim

[Yampa Bob]

Hi Rob
As Jim mentioned, there is an error in the instruction manual. For more detailed information please refer to the following thread:

http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php/topic,8893.0.html

I also have EZ Command, and love the simplicity of operation.

Regards

[renniks]

I may be leaning more towards a "gumstump" (http://www.carendt.com/scrapbook/page38a/index.html )

      With your 2ft. depth, you should be able to include the runaround track variation on the lower level and probably one on the top level also.

      Eric UK

[CUrob]

Thanks for the good advice.

I guess what i was trying to get at on the wiring was, do I need to have track feeds to both sides of the turnout? (i.e. feed to main and branch)?

since this is a switching layout, at the end of the lines do i need to do anything special?

[rustyrails]

Hey, CUrob,

What feeders you need depend on the type of turnouts you're using.  IF you use insulated frog turnouts (and I assume the EZ Track turnouts are), you only need one set of feeders, although a second set to the upper level wouldn't hurt.  Be very careful of your track joints.  The grades on this layout are VERY steep.  Don't let your vertical transitions be too sudden.  Personally I would use flex track so I didn't have to have joints in the transition areas, but I'm just an old curmudgeon who sees no reason to throw away what works.

If you'd like to read Chuck Yungkurth's original article, to the best of my knowledge it was last published in a book called "Track Planning Ideas from Model Railroader," edited by Bob Hayden, published by Kalmbach.  The article is entitled "Operations on the Gum Stump & Snowshoe."  My copy was printed in 1991.  I don't know if there were subsequent printings.

In 2007 Bachmann published a book called "E-Z Model Railroads," by Chris Lane.  That book includes a version of the Gum Stump and Snowshoe in On30 on a 2X8 foot shelf.  A wiring diagram is included for cab control that will help you appreciate the simplicity of DCC wiring.    

Chuck originally envisioned working this layout with two small engines.  One would make up a three car train at Gum Stump and the second would pull the train up the hill to Snowshoe.  He says that it was not unusual to take half an hour to run a train to Snowshoe and back.  Hope these ramblings of an old man are useful.
Rusty