4-4-0 break-in

[johns]

Just purchased one of the Spectrum Richmond 4-4-0's.  It runs fine forward but in reverse, almost comes to a complete stop with each driver rotation, at a moderate throttle setting (on DC).  I realize this may clear up after a period of break in running but this seems extreme.  Several other Spectrum steam engines I own had some binding when new but this cleared up in time.
Has anyone else found this with the 4-4-0's?  And if so, did it clear up or were you able to figure out the problem?  I'd rather try fixing it than send it back.

John S.

[BillD53A]

Check the driver quartering.   One of the wheels is probably far enough out of quarter that you can see it.  When the crankpins on one side are at the top of their travel, the other side should line up horizontally.  You will have to completely dis-assemble the model to fix it, but you can probably twist the wheel into place by hand.  I just did it 2 weeks ago to a 10-wheeler, without a quartering jig.  Disconnect the piston rods completely, leaving just the rods connecting the drivers, and roll the mechanism by hand.  When you feel the bind, you should see which wheel is out of quarter.  If it can be turned by hand, just move it a little at a time until the bind is gone.
If it won't turn by hand you will need a wheel puller and quartering jig.  Northwest Short Line makes them.

[rikc9]

I have this engine but it runs fine. I belong to a local club which has a large layout and I let the engine run in forward and reverse for about an hour each at a moderate speed.
The only thing I can think of is, check the clearence between the driver brakes and brake shoes.
My Roundhouse 4-4-0 with DCC/sound had that issue and clearing flash off of the driver brakes took care of the issue.

rikc9

[caboose101]

Both replies above are good advice.  A third possibility is that the gear on the driver axle (0AC03 on the parts list) has a burr or possibly a piece of dirt between the teeth.  This would show up on every rotation.  Since the load is applied to different sides of the gear teeth in forward and reverse, the problem might only occur in one direction as you indicate.  Also ensure that this gear and the worm gear are lubricated with a plastic compatible grease such as Labelle #106.

I usually give the driver bearings, rods and valve gear a shot of #108 oil periodically.

Bob

[johns]

Taking everyone's suggestions, I started with the driver quartering. This appeared to be ok, at least visually since I don't have a quartering jig.  Looking at the brake rigging, this may have been the problem as one brake shoe may have been brushing against one of the drivers. I used a little force to pry it away from the driver.  Also removed the bottom retainer and checked the drive gear and worm for a burr but didn't see anything.  Everything appeared to be lubricated appropriately.  With the piston rods disconnected, I ran it upside down and the binding seemed to be gone (in reverse).  Put it back together and now it runs fine in both directions. 
Thanks to all for the suggestions.

John

[Virginian]

Glad you fixed it. 
For future reference, taking apart a steam engine and judging by eyeball and adjusting the quartering by twisting the drivers is about as sure a prescription for trouble as I have ever seen.  Some engines are not quartered exactly 90 degrees from the factory, and anytime you go messing with quarter without a wheel puller and a jig you are inviting trouble.

[BillD53A]

Virginian,
Did you ever stop and ask yourself, what did the REAL model railroaders do before NorthWest Short Line came along with their quartering jig?